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Turbosmart do some great gated boost controllers. I personally would never use the standard WGFV it must be the most unreliable part on the car and more so with raised boost levels.
My car is mapped at 2.5 bar but i run it at 2bar and the Turbosmart valve works perfectly for me.
I know many don't like them, each to there own it certainly changes the characteristics of the car making it more aggressive.
I have a light in the dash that comes on at 2.3 bar should it go that high i.e anything fail and boost not be controlled.
my first and second cars were manta`s first one was an a series 1.9 sr second was a gte exclusive in dolphin grey with a monza 3 litre engine and gear box etc loved them in fact i still have the hand book for the a series think that grey one has the mattig body kit i looked at this but it was about 3 grand for the kit back in 91 ouch
ABY Cricket Green Pearl Coupe, blk leather
THE ONLY TROUBLE WITH DOING NOTHING IS KNOWING WHEN YOUR FINISHED!!!
my WGFV has rarely failed.i dont know how you mean that they always cause problems...so far they have been quite reliable.Bought one new on rebuilt,the previous one was not leaking,but i felt i wanted everything new @ the remap so..everything seems fine so far and about 25000Kms later.Before that the previous WGFV had been working succesfully for more than 80000Kms before a change
Simply because of the potential they give for giving it too much boost and running lean!
I do have access to use a wideband FOC, so I suppose it could be setup using that... but I dont believe they are the best way of doing things, Im sure the Max Power lot would argue differently though!
Thats fair enough but you say your not overall happy with it... Im sure youve done all the boost checks etc, air flow meter, new free flowing air filter. Your missing the wastegate adjustment to get the potential imho.
this is written not to be in any way critical, but in a effort to assist, because I think your car looks great, and you are close enough to having it right in the performance stakes, apart from being spot on in the looks dept.
You may have seen the threads on the Forum recently about upgrade of the k24 and nothing else? Food for thought?, but also cause for additional expense.
Assuming the budget can be set aside, a GT2871R and a custom map, should definitely give you the interest you are missing in the S2? As per myself, funds would dictate the RS2 Airbox, the front entry inlet manifold and larger inter-cooler would have to wait till later.
As you will probably appreciate with these cars you more likely need about £280.00 a week to spend on them, LOL. But when they're right, they're as good as any, and better than most! They can feel boring because of all of the accelerative grip they have and their weight masks the speed.
But having said all of the above, it may be a case that there is some small thing wrong with it that it is not giving all it has to give in it's current tune?
Not to blow my own trumpet, but since buying the second S2 Avant, I wasn't happy with the H & R springs, although they looked great, so I took it all apart to see exactly what was what and was everything as it should be?
I found a couple of things, turbo side of the front cross-member was not connected with any of the 3 bolts, also replaced the two gearbox mounts with 034 street density mounts and the 034 front snubber. Replaced the four standard bushes on the sub-frame with four new ones. The rear two were finger loose in the sub-frame when it was taken out. Also replaced the front ARB with an RS2 one, and the rear with a Neuspeed one. New std green top mounts. The ARBs were replaced first and made a good noticeable difference. The ARBs and the front snubber are well worth the money.
When the car was put back together after all of the bushes and top mounts replaced, and tracked, the car felt tighter and newer than before. Even though I found that one of the Konis is past its best. The chrome shaft drops down into the body of the shock when stood up. It still resists when pulled up, but two new ones on the front should further improve things. Also sticking two new ones on the back, because two now new ones have to be better than two old ones? Courtesy of Aelred. Haven't touched the back of the car at all yet.
but there's no clunck from the back of mine so don't know if replacing it would have any other benefits?
( I know I've mentioned some of the above before elsewhere on the Forum, but worth repeating IMHO).
Also recently replaced the lambda probe which has made a noticeable difference to the fuel economy, bit it is all relative, now 19 average instead of 15 average mpg around town, but again worth the money. Having said that, with the old one, of the three "gills" on the probe, two were quite choked up, but decided to replace it with the new one anyway as I had it in my hand, rather than just clean out the "gills".
Progress on the suspension and mpg front, but with a chip I felt it should have been quicker,
I decided to check and replace the dump valve with new S3 standard one, and found immediately the car was quicker, the old one was obviously past it;s best. Cheapest bhp to date.
This relative sudden extra shove at 3k gave rise to my desire to have it do it at 2k rather than 3k, hence the thread,
The one thing I do need to get plumed in is a boost gauge. What does your s read? with the Homefry? Have you had yours rolling roaded? The people who know on this Forum seem to be able to diagnose a lot just from looking at the graphs and readings of a decent rolling road printout.
Admittedly if I stand back and add up all the money spent to date on what is a back car, it is a bit mad, but at least it is my everyday car so I reap the benefit of the money spent each day, the primary one is still bogged down in Corey's. Hopefully this one will rise from the dead some day soon ???
The way I see it, you either pay of load of money paying back the loan for a new car or a load of money repairing and upgrading an old one, either way you're stuffed on the money front.
Hopefully this, admittedly long, post is of some help, rather than an annoyance.
p.s. Any photos of your wheel spacers in place without the wheel fitted and a photo of the spacers themselves before they were fitted?
Of course I would love to put a better turbo on, and do various other mods to make it quicker.... but sadly the budget cannot be put aside!
If it could, do you really think I would be driving an M reg Audi?
Ive already done the S3 DV, new WGFV and god knows what else!
My gauge reads 17-18psi, which is apparently around 3psi down on what a homefry should be.
This could simply be the gauge being slightly inaccurate of course.
I do have a group buy one sitting here which I should really fit, so I can rule that out if nothing more!
Its not been on the rollers yet, as Ive simply not had the opportunity to do so.
Hopefully I will be able to go the MRC open day next month, and see what more experienced members of the forum think to how it performs/how healthy it is
I have decided I am not going spend anything on it until after that
i can tell you that the rear diff mount does these things:
1)reduces or diminishes the rear dip when boost comes on
2)makes the diff hearable!!
3)on full boost you get a vibration from the rear diff/suspension/axle
i can say that it might make the car seem that it goes slower as the rear dip on spooling of the turbo really made you think that you had a lift off,but in all it makes the car feel more stable and tightened.
I like it!
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