Just got back and checked forum for first time since last Wednesday and there is 1001 posts so I will check those in a few mins.
Anyway I spent a few days working on the S2 last week and got quite alot done. Havent had a chance to take photos yet, but will do in due course.
Plan originally was to get MOT, change subframe bushes and fix exhaust.
Unfortunately I wasnt able to get the exhaust done because the 3" flanges werent ready in time. But i am now wondering if it would be better to get some 3" V Band fittings to use instead?
Anyone know how much the flange sticks out since ground clearance might be an issue if I use those? And also anyone know a good source for them?
Anyway, when I came to doing the subframe bushes it was one of the easiest jobs that I have done on the S2 in the last few years, i did have the benefit of a 2 poster ramp though.
The subframe on the front came off without any problems and I had the gearbox supported from underneath and popped the lower ball joints out. If I had know this I would have probably removed the subframe when I did the wishbone bushes too...
Ah well.
While the front subframe was off I changed the passenger side engine mount since I did the drivers side a few months ago and wanted to do that one too, glad I did since you could see where it had collapsed and deformed over the last 15 years. So a set of superflex subframe bushes was then fitted to the front and it all put backtogether with a bit of hammerite on the bits that had surface rust on the subframe to give it a bit more protection.
Then to the rear, I had tried to do the rear diff mount a few years ago but couldn't get the bold through it undone so left it for the time being, but since I was taking the subframe off it was time for it to be done. And with liberal amounts of duck oil it came off a treat, again with the rear diff supported and ball joints popped out the subframe was dropped out and the bushes changed along with the rear diff mount.
I noticed that the other two diff bushes had seen better days and I had changed the gearbox mounts about a year ago which were actually in quite good condition so I am going to fit the old gearbox mounts to the diff instead when I next have a chance (didnt have them with me at the time). When I got the diff mount out I touched the metal centre pin and it just fell out so it was definetly in need of renewal.
So got that all back together and did the usual service bits with changing oil etc.
Im sure some of you noticed I was having some hesitation issues last month too and I re gapped the plugs, well it started to do it again so I replaced the 12month old NGK's with Bosch plugs instead and it seems to have solved the problem now.
The last job after the MOT was to fit the aquamist kit I have been getting bits for, I found some good mounting points for the parts too.
I fitted the pump onto the intercooler xmember near the alternator and then connected the water feed from the washer bottle by drilling and tapping. Then mounted the boost sensor to a bracket infront of the ABS pump and tee'd the sensor off from the inlet manifold pressure pipe.
The water injector was then drilled and tapped into the intercooler end tank and a 50% mix of washer fluid to water put in the washer bottle.
I did have one minor issue though, the front bumper came off fine, but going back on it cracked on the corner a little which was a bit of a PITA so I am gonna leave that for a year until the cambelt is done again next year then get it fixed.
While the bumper was off I got the intercooler off and there was some oil sludge in the bottom of it so I gave it a good flush out and cleaned as much out as I could and put it all back together. I remember asking john if I had done the intercooler inlet pipe clip up and he said I had so I was happy, got it all back together at 5pm in time for the garage to close up for the weekend and went down the road to realise I had a massive boost leak.
Checked all the hoses at the top of the engine and thought it would prob be that awkward hose so got it back up on the ramp at the garage which didnt make my dad too happy since he was looking forward to getting home... I havent got that undertray off so quick before, was literally 5 mins from pulling up at the garage to tightening the clip, removal and fitting of the undertray! Good news was it solved the leak.
The car runs so much better now too, handling is definetly improved, the diff no longer clonks when I change gear (but you do get a little bit of whine in the car on accleration which I can cope with) and the WI has definetly improved the acceleration and smoothness. Gonna get it booked in at the RR to see how much difference it has made.
Just goto get the exhaust sorted out now and fit the passenger side brake duct. Unfortunately I wasnt able to get the wheel alignment done, despite only changing the steering arms 2 years ago, because the steering arms are seized up. So my job in a couple of weekends time (weather permitting) is to loosen them up so I can take it in to get the wheel alignment sorted out.
The final job was to fit the under dash trim on the passenger side in place. The S2 had aircon fitted when I first got it which I removed because it was going to cost too much fix and it never had the under glovebox sound deading fitted. So thanks to Acidburn I got another one and had to get that fitted with a few screws etc in place.
Bad news is that I have finally found the source of my water leak after changing a couple of pipes and the header tank. The radiator core has gone and it will be the 3rd radiator I have fitted! Morale of the story is dont go anywhere near the Nissen radiators because the build quality is crap.
And to top it off it looks like the oil pressure sensor has started to leak again!!! I only changed that when i did the radiator last time. But I think it might be the adaptor this time because when I did it last time the oil pressure sensor was fitted to an adaptor that was then screwed into the block. Should this be the case? What size thread should the oil pressure sensor be?
Pics to follow soon
Anyway I spent a few days working on the S2 last week and got quite alot done. Havent had a chance to take photos yet, but will do in due course.
Plan originally was to get MOT, change subframe bushes and fix exhaust.
Unfortunately I wasnt able to get the exhaust done because the 3" flanges werent ready in time. But i am now wondering if it would be better to get some 3" V Band fittings to use instead?
Anyone know how much the flange sticks out since ground clearance might be an issue if I use those? And also anyone know a good source for them?
Anyway, when I came to doing the subframe bushes it was one of the easiest jobs that I have done on the S2 in the last few years, i did have the benefit of a 2 poster ramp though.
The subframe on the front came off without any problems and I had the gearbox supported from underneath and popped the lower ball joints out. If I had know this I would have probably removed the subframe when I did the wishbone bushes too...
Ah well.
While the front subframe was off I changed the passenger side engine mount since I did the drivers side a few months ago and wanted to do that one too, glad I did since you could see where it had collapsed and deformed over the last 15 years. So a set of superflex subframe bushes was then fitted to the front and it all put backtogether with a bit of hammerite on the bits that had surface rust on the subframe to give it a bit more protection.
Then to the rear, I had tried to do the rear diff mount a few years ago but couldn't get the bold through it undone so left it for the time being, but since I was taking the subframe off it was time for it to be done. And with liberal amounts of duck oil it came off a treat, again with the rear diff supported and ball joints popped out the subframe was dropped out and the bushes changed along with the rear diff mount.
I noticed that the other two diff bushes had seen better days and I had changed the gearbox mounts about a year ago which were actually in quite good condition so I am going to fit the old gearbox mounts to the diff instead when I next have a chance (didnt have them with me at the time). When I got the diff mount out I touched the metal centre pin and it just fell out so it was definetly in need of renewal.
So got that all back together and did the usual service bits with changing oil etc.
Im sure some of you noticed I was having some hesitation issues last month too and I re gapped the plugs, well it started to do it again so I replaced the 12month old NGK's with Bosch plugs instead and it seems to have solved the problem now.
The last job after the MOT was to fit the aquamist kit I have been getting bits for, I found some good mounting points for the parts too.
I fitted the pump onto the intercooler xmember near the alternator and then connected the water feed from the washer bottle by drilling and tapping. Then mounted the boost sensor to a bracket infront of the ABS pump and tee'd the sensor off from the inlet manifold pressure pipe.
The water injector was then drilled and tapped into the intercooler end tank and a 50% mix of washer fluid to water put in the washer bottle.
I did have one minor issue though, the front bumper came off fine, but going back on it cracked on the corner a little which was a bit of a PITA so I am gonna leave that for a year until the cambelt is done again next year then get it fixed.
While the bumper was off I got the intercooler off and there was some oil sludge in the bottom of it so I gave it a good flush out and cleaned as much out as I could and put it all back together. I remember asking john if I had done the intercooler inlet pipe clip up and he said I had so I was happy, got it all back together at 5pm in time for the garage to close up for the weekend and went down the road to realise I had a massive boost leak.
Checked all the hoses at the top of the engine and thought it would prob be that awkward hose so got it back up on the ramp at the garage which didnt make my dad too happy since he was looking forward to getting home... I havent got that undertray off so quick before, was literally 5 mins from pulling up at the garage to tightening the clip, removal and fitting of the undertray! Good news was it solved the leak.
The car runs so much better now too, handling is definetly improved, the diff no longer clonks when I change gear (but you do get a little bit of whine in the car on accleration which I can cope with) and the WI has definetly improved the acceleration and smoothness. Gonna get it booked in at the RR to see how much difference it has made.
Just goto get the exhaust sorted out now and fit the passenger side brake duct. Unfortunately I wasnt able to get the wheel alignment done, despite only changing the steering arms 2 years ago, because the steering arms are seized up. So my job in a couple of weekends time (weather permitting) is to loosen them up so I can take it in to get the wheel alignment sorted out.
The final job was to fit the under dash trim on the passenger side in place. The S2 had aircon fitted when I first got it which I removed because it was going to cost too much fix and it never had the under glovebox sound deading fitted. So thanks to Acidburn I got another one and had to get that fitted with a few screws etc in place.
Bad news is that I have finally found the source of my water leak after changing a couple of pipes and the header tank. The radiator core has gone and it will be the 3rd radiator I have fitted! Morale of the story is dont go anywhere near the Nissen radiators because the build quality is crap.
And to top it off it looks like the oil pressure sensor has started to leak again!!! I only changed that when i did the radiator last time. But I think it might be the adaptor this time because when I did it last time the oil pressure sensor was fitted to an adaptor that was then screwed into the block. Should this be the case? What size thread should the oil pressure sensor be?
Pics to follow soon


just need to find where the oil leak is when I take it all apart now
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