My UrS6 Avant

[prj]

So, here is what is going onto my car:
* H-beam rods
* "New" crank
* All new bearings, gaskets
* New OEM oil pump
* New timing belt etc
* Big MAF
* Billet timing belt "cog" (sorry, don't know the english word).
* Aquamist HFS-3 Water injection system

Old oil pump has bits of the 2nd cyl rod in it, so it can not be used.
I don't want to drop my CR and for the money I would spend on a FMIC, fitting a meth kit is way more bang for the buck.

[Thuppu]

Ok, great you can test the Aquamist on your car and then I can also get one before mapping.

[s2_wot]

So, here is what is going onto my car:

* Aquamist HFS-3 Water injection system

[prj]

Ok, great you can test the Aquamist on your car and then I can also get one before mapping.

Yes, you will get very good gains from W/I with your big turbo and stock CR.

[Rocco]

I want something like this....in the competition

[Thuppu]

Yes, you will get very good gains from W/I with your big turbo and stock CR.

Sounds good. How big advantage in do we speak of, approximately?


By the way, you put H-rods... any plans for big power solutions? :mischeif:

[prj]

I put in H-rods because my 2nd cyl rod is toast anyway, and since I have to do a bottom end rebuild there is no reason not to.
For now, I am keeping it with K26/K27 and W/I, because any other changes mean significant and expensive modifications - intake, exhaust manifold, downpipe, exhaust system, turbo oil and water lines etc...

As for your car - we should be able to run upto 5 degrees more timing and about 0.5 bar more boost, but we will see that when mapping, there is no point to speculate now

[Jonnybravo]

Sounding great Dimitri, keep at it.

[Mr.Woodaker]

Really nice Car Keep up the good work

[prj]

Thanks. Hope I can get it running again soon...
Currently busy mapping a few cars in the UK though:

[prj]

So, a small update...
My old crank was so bent that it did not even turn properly by hand anymore.
New crank turns perfectly and all bearing clearances are perfectly to spec, measuring with both a special tool (no idea how it's called in english) and plastigauge.

Block has been cleaned inside and out and decked.
Here a pic:


Crank installed:


The bores are almost unworn, you can still see all the factory honing. I am thinking of keeping the rings, because new rings were installed only 5000 miles ago.

Changing the heater matrix as well while the engine is out. Converted my ECU to big maf and machining the airbox and re-doing the intake to fit. Goodbye broken wires.

[Rocco]

Good luck,come on!

[JP]

Personally I'd run a flexhone down them for 10secs and re ring them with molybdenum inlaid rings for piece of mind. That way you run no risk of chrome breaking away from the top ring at high boost.

[prj]

Personally I'd run a flexhone down them for 10secs and re ring them with molybdenum inlaid rings for piece of mind. That way you run no risk of chrome breaking away from the top ring at high boost.

Yeah, the block will be honed.
I found a pic of the old boxes from the old rings.
Says "NPR Europe" on them.
Which rings would you suggest? Could you give me a part number of some sorts?

[Thuppu]

Stock OEM ring a quite expencive... Didn't they use Golf GTI rings on these, if you want OE quality? Goetze is used much, I havn't heard any trouble with them.

Here is something: http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49069