S2 Restoration Options.

[Twenny Benson]

Wow im surprised they can run that sort of power, I won't be going that far thats for sure so looks like they can stay then. Do people bother changing the wirst pins during a rebuild?

So just rods, bearings & a proper MLS headgasket, the one I took out was a fibre gasket I don't much like them! I will add some ARP main studs as there not stupid money. As for head work, I know just the man for this, nice CNC porting job FTW.

Now for my next dilemma, do I stay motronic or make up another 034EFI loom and share the ECU between the S2 & A4. It would only take a minute or two to swap between cars and few more minutes to load in the correct file. I can configure the files so that I would't run with the incorrect file loaded in either car. Selling the ECU & loom would free up some more much needed cash! I need all the help I can get right now. Does anyone know where I can find the connectors & crimps for the S2 other than stealership?

[djh]

Wow im surprised they can run that sort of power, I won't be going that far thats for sure so looks like they can stay then. Do people bother changing the wirst pins during a rebuild?

So just rods, bearings & a proper MLS headgasket, the one I took out was a fibre gasket I don't much like them! I will add some ARP main studs as there not stupid money. As for head work, I know just the man for this, nice CNC porting job FTW.

Now for my next dilemma, do I stay motronic or make up another 034EFI loom and share the ECU between the S2 & A4. It would only take a minute or two to swap between cars and few more minutes to load in the correct file. I can configure the files so that I would't run with the incorrect file loaded in either car. Selling the ECU & loom would free up some more much needed cash! I need all the help I can get right now. Does anyone know where I can find the connectors & crimps for the S2 other than stealership?

I changed the pins in my build, cheap from audi (surprise)
Arp's was around £110

Which connectors/crimps do you need, the engine bay one's? there are a few threads about stuff like them on here already with links.

If your happy with 034 then that would be a good option, selling the ecu/motronic should free up around £250 for the ecu and £150 for the engine bay loom (both the main section plus the smaller section that plugs in under the bonnet to the 2x big round plugs and if you can control a high output kit with the 034 then thats another bonus ditching the power output stages.

[Twenny Benson]

Happy days, I know my local Audi parts man very well, I even get discounts now I buy that much. I will enquire about the wirst pins tomorrow, seems silly to re-use the original pins.

I will be after all the engine sensor connectors really, I will use the search to see what I can find.

I like the 034EFI now I've got to grips with it, the software could be better and there are a few little things that annoy me but I can work with that. It might not be the latest and greatest but its plenty capable for my requirements. I can drive the COP's directly from the ECU so it would eliminate the POS's, my ECU also has an uprated 4bar map sensor (absolute) and all the latest tricky bits. 034 Motorsport have just released a CAN-BUS EGT & EGO module for the ECU as well so thats another possibility. I know I would lose the stock driveability of the motronic but at least I can adjust and fine tune the map as when I need to change things which will save me having to pay through the nose for custom mapping everytime i need to change anything. I quite like the raw feeling you get from stand alone management so it makes sense really, especially if the stock ECU & loom are worth that much.

[djh]

Might be worth getting hold of a aan loom as they are cheaper and just butchering it for the connectors you need if you can't source all new one's.

Another bonus about the 034 is if the ecu is in your other car or house the car can't be stolen.

[Twenny Benson]

Just thought! I have a load of OEM connectors from my butchered A4 loom, looking at the connectors they seem the same. I also know someone who has a load left over from his 2.7T build, think I've got the connectors covered, just need some crimps now & I think I could sort some out.

Good point about the immobiliser, hadn't really thought of that.

I can see where all this heading, I may as well just give in and accept its going to ruin me

[djh]

It still can be cheap just take your time you have your other car to drive as well

[Twenny Benson]

Bit of an update.

I continued to strip down the motor, got the pistons out now I need to fab up a crank pulley locking tool to get the crank out. Then the block can go on the pile for cleaning. I use these folk, fairly local and do a cracking job http://www.paint-strip.co.uk/ I'm taking pretty much everything for dipping.





I've finally ordered the spit & supplied drawings for the brackets, should have that this week . Before it goes on the spit I thought it wise to remove the worst of the seam sealer from the inside as I once its on the spit I won't be climbing inside! I also removed the front center seat mount's, they were doin me **** in and I don't need them anyway.







I exposed some bare metal so I zooshed over it all with some zinc weld through primer for now to ward of the tin worm. I will clean it all out again properly when I come to stitch it all, probably a go idea to remove the underseal first or it might just catch fire!









Collecting the shell from DJH next Saturday and should have everything I need to start pieceing the old girl back together by then, so some proper updates should follow soon.

[4WheelDrifter]

Nice work.

For the crank, just lock it using a bar through the flywheel bolts.
I find the front pulley comes off easily using a 10' extension bar. Just make sure you hold the block steady while you're doing it.

[Twenny Benson]

Nice work.

For the crank, just lock it using a bar through the flywheel bolts.
I find the front pulley comes off easily using a 10' extension bar. Just make sure you hold the block steady while you're doing it.

Cheers dude

Is that a good idea locking the flywheel end? Surely I will be trying to twist the crank until the bolt loosens off? I think I will just fab a quick and nasty pulley holding tool to be safe.

[4WheelDrifter]

I think the crank is strong enough.

I don't have a keyway on my front pulley, so locking the flywheel is the only real option anyway. Unless I have the sump off, and shove something between the crank and block.

[Twenny Benson]

I think the crank is strong enough.

No offence buddy but I'd rather not find out! I have the provision to lock the pulley so it would be stupid not to really, I'm not in a rush to get the crank out anyway so I can wait for the material to arrive

[Error404]

Nice work mate, brings back some memories! Are you going to stitch the whole shell?

[Twenny Benson]

Cheers fella, I found it strangely enjoyable removing the seam sealer. I'm going to stich weld everything I can get at inside & out.

[Jamo]

What 4wheeldrifter says is correct you have to lock at flywheel if you can't lock the pulley look at the tool djones built for example

[Twenny Benson]

I'm not doubting that bud, its just I can lock the pulley, I just don't have a tool to do it now. I need to fab something up. I would rather do it this way than locking the flywheel. I made a similar tool for my 1.8T so shouldn't be a problem making another one for this