Presentation of My (good old) URS4

[hugokx]

Hi everyone!

I've been a member of this forum for a long time now, reading everyday's posts and I thought it would be time to introduce you to my URS4. So here she is, it's a 6speed manual box (CBL) with stock sport suspension.









She's been in the family since I'm 5yrs old, so no need to say that she has a special place for me. She has done 425000km (264k miles) since then and she's still running like she did the first day!

As you can see my dad always took a great care of the bodywork (yep he asked to paint the black parts when he bought it because he didn't like it, I agree with that, no offense ), there are just a few rust dots here and there (fuel trap, trunk hood, lower doors) but nothing noticeable. The interior is fully black leather and also in mint conditions (we weren't allowed to have anything in our pockets as kids when we sat in the car to avoid any scratches). Sorry I have no pics of the interior.

So now that my Dad is less reluctant at me touching/repairing/improving it I'm nearly in charge of her.

So here is what I already did :
----------------------------
-Checking Compression : Ok

-Leak down test : nearly OK

-VAG test : 00561 - Mixture Adaptation : Check MAF and possible air leaks done. no more fault : Ok

-Replaced PBV by a billet one as the stock one was leaking (resulting in code 00561) : OK

-Just for fun : Tryied to put a Hybrid k24/7000 from hoffer and one of his ship on it. For the anecdote, at first the stock turbo was whistling as hell because of some play in the shaft. Then I though it would be a good occasion to make this mod without the approval of my dad who's still the owner of the car and is not so much into mods. So I just said I was going to fix the turbo not mentionning any mods which is what I did in a way .

-993tt front brake : The UFO's were braking like crap so I put 993tt's on it. I'll write a thread about this conversion in a few days because it was nothing but an easy thing to do and i'd be glad if I can help anybody to have all the pieces of the puzzle in one thread. At the same time I sandblasted, zinc coated and powercoated "new" struts (they came from a younger S4 from a friend of mine) as the old ones were eaten by the rust. And I put new yellow Koni shocks

- Changing fuel line : old ones were also eaten by rust (thread here)

What I plan to do :
------------------

- New engine : the old one is leaking oil and has its miles. I got a fresh 83k miles Engine which I planned to mod but I still don't know how. Budget will tell

- New rear subframe : Rust and Rust is the word for the bottom of the car, so I'll put on a fresh rear subframe (sandblaste, zinc coated, powder coated) all with OEM and Apikol or Bambridge bushes.

- Same thing with the front

- New gearbox, new rear diff with Apikol bushes, new propshaft, Well a brand "new" (to compare with my car mileage) transmission and suspension.

-Fixing the A/C which hasn't worked for the last 10 years

Well enough said I think!

BTW Special thanks to anybody on this forum ! All their knowledge has helped me to repair a lot of things on my car and planned a lot of exciting thing to do with her .

Cheers!

[UrS4boy]

Sources of C4 UrS information

Great looking UrS4. A different silver than we got in NAmerica. If you can post a photo (or Private Message me) of the build sticker (in the boot/trunk under the carpet or the warranty book), I will decode it for you.

In the meantime, welcome to the world of UrS Love (and Hate).

If you haven't found it already, there is an excellent Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) section on the quattroworld UrS forum. In the qw FAQ there are two sections that consolidate much of the info regarding the UrS Engine Bay devices and the Chassis systems:

Engine Bay Device Map (long, manual, version): http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22625.phtml
Engine Bay Device Map (live label, shorter version, just click on the labels):
http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%...ice%20Map.html

AND

UrS System and Chassis Map (long, manual version):
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/24724.phtml
UrS System and Chassis Map (live label, shorter version, just click on the labels):
http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%...sis%20Map.html

And of course, the general UrS-car FAQ:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/15184.phtml

If you don't find what you need, post your question here and you will no doubt get your answer.

[hugokx]

Thanks URS4Boy,

I actually read 95% of your FAQ's and the others on quattroworld (three years of reading since the beginning of the URS4 madness ) And well It is a really precious and valuable work you did ! Thanks for that!

[Avantus]

Very nice car, and cool story

Up to the 500.000km!

[hugokx]

I'd like to do it but it's not a daily driver anymore . I only did 500km since last year with it.

[quattrostyle]

Wow, great car and great history.
Really love that colour on it

[hugokx]

If I remember well the colour is "Titanium Grey"

[ringbearer]

Beautiful S4, I like the painted trim, looks different. Keep up the mods

[UrS4boy]

Thanks URS4Boy, I actually read 95% of your FAQ's and the others on quattroworld (three years of reading since the beginning of the URS4 madness ) And well It is a really precious and valuable work you did ! Thanks for that!

Bitte

[Sleeper_Avant]

i love this colour with clear indicators,

very very nice car, and hope she lives another 250,000+ miles.

regards Sean.

[macspring]

Cool story.

Keep up the good work.

Looking forward to your future posts in your thread.

Kind regards.

[psiconauta911]

Nice!

[hugokx]

Hi all,

I just finished rebuilding the rear subframe and the tank of the car (I ll post the pics soon )

In the process I also refurbished the brake lines and I cleaned the rear proportioning valve. I now have a leak on the top of the valve at the o-ring location



Actually I don't remember if the valve was screwed all the way down the aluminium block or not... Does anybody know if I m supposed to tighten it hard ? I don't want to destroy the o-ring or anything else

Thanks!

[rynaqui]

Really love these cars, yours looks great and has a nice story behind it, family car

Wouldn't mind owning one myself, a very understated great quality vehicle

[hugokx]

So here are the rear subframe overhaul pics!

knowing the mileage of the car and the amount of salt there is on Belgian roads during winter it is obvious that the underbody was quite rusted... So I wanted to refurbish the rear of the car. I did the following :

• drop off the rear subframe (diff, suspension), sablasting, metalizing, powdercoating all the part, except the small ones, wheel hubs that I painted with POR15. The rear diff and driveshaft and no play or noise, so I just cleaned them before I spray painted them. New bushings everywhere (ordered from Custom Auto Craft), Apikol bushings for the rear subframe.
• As I had access to the fuel tank, I dropped it off, removed old paint and crappy grease to apply POR15. Fortunately the inside of the tank was ok, no rust. Just shiny paint inside.
• remove most of the rust from the underbody and apply POR15 where I could (I was working under the car on jack stands )
• Repair the hole in the left and right rear wheel arches that were completely rusted
• the brake lines were dirty and some fittings were damaged so I changed them
• I changed the brake bomb because braking power was not really good even after 993tt upgrade. I also changed the steering fluid rad as mine was rusted. The brake bomb is a refilled one that is sold by Quattro-Zentral. The guy has a lot of parts, prices are fair (I think ), shipping is fast and he answers quickly to questions.

For thosein Europe who would wonder where I got POR15 from, here is where. The shipping is a bit expensive, they told me that it was because of the type of product shipped and I ve never seen such a perfect packaging. I wonder if an engineer is paid to study how to organize products in the box

Here is how the suspension and subframe parts looked like when I removed them





complete album

The underbody was completly rusted, not mentioning all the greasy crap that was stuck at some spots around the fuel tank and along the rear bumper. Actually when the car was younger, the tank began to rust, so the mechanics from an Audi garage just covered it with something that looked like a really thick and sticky grease, it was a pleasure to remove it and handle the fuel tank





holes...




Have you ever seen inside the body ?



I found a secret entry to the trunk...



some more rust



Full album of the before pictures for the body

And finally the greasy, nasty tank






After a few hours removing paint and grease (not the rust as I wanted the POR15 to stick on it)



Full album of the before pictures for the tank

if you have doubts for the color of the lines to the rear diff locking pump here is how they should be



Actually I had never taken apart the rear arm link until I discovered how it was inside after... going a bit too hard on one...yes I managed to twist the tips



and this was a rust cylinder, before I discovered there was some metal under



and the small parts that won't be sandblasted, but just POR15-ed




So if you want to do the same thing on your URS4, you should have the following list of bolts, nuts and washers




I ll post the pics of the shiny parts tomorrow

Cheers guys!



PS : Please tell me if the pics are too big. My browser just resize them automatically.