Audi RS2 mini project

[minim]

Been doing some reading trough those awesome writeup's now and I found out that I def. have to check this altitude sensor more when I get the car up and running again. From 1000meters (mine is showing 2500 approx) it is reducing it's pressure so I will run with a lot less power if that one is faulty. Also a bit disappointing that there is so little data to read out from vagcom :X Was hoping to be able to read out the actual MAP sensor and MAF to see if both of them was working properly. Guess it's better to wait for when the car is assembled before I worry more about other errors.

Thanks again guys for the bookmarks. Back to reading

[UrS4boy]

Been doing some reading through those awesome writeup's now and I found out that I def. have to check this altitude sensor more when I get the car up and running again. ...Thanks again guys for the bookmarks. Back to reading.

I tried to add more info to this thread but the forum was lost to me for 4 or 5 hours (literally Error 404 website not found).

Anyway, there is more info in this manual (not hyperlinked labels) version of the Engine Bay Device Map (link below). As Robin (twoqu) suggested, although I originally compiled/wrote those info posts for the AANs in the C4 UrS4/S6s, they typically apply directly to the ABY in the S2s and the ADU in the RS2. Many apply to the 3B in the early S2s and C3 200 20vts as well.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22625.phtml

[minim]

Got a call from the store that sold the replacement tandem pump (servo) and he said that the Allen bolt shown in the picture below should be tightened up and he didn't say anything about putting a o-ring on it. From pictures of OEM pumps I can't see this Allen key and I do not know what it does. Anyone got a clue? The Allen key is located on the side of the pump that is turning down when it's mounted in the car.

[minim]

time for a little update of this thread. As shown in another thread I've been trying to figure out a problem I had with the car hesitating during WOT. I was fixing air leaks in the intake and since the guy I bought the vehicle from told me that he recently changed spark plugs I didn't need to think about them but I decided to grab new ones just to be sure. Guess what, it solved my problem

Some pics from changing injector inserts.



After assembling again after fixing the inserts I also found a little leak on the ISV as shown in this picture. I have decided not to get a new ISV yet as the car runs fine but I will try to find a used one in good condition as it was pricey from my dealer ($1000).



During the search for this error I also tried logging in vagcom. It was a slow readout but It's a nice feature. Will do more logging now after it's fixed to see how everything is running.



Now it's back to solving a leak on my tandem pump so I can drive the car into storage for when I'm at work

[minim]

Anyone know what could be wrong when the car sounds like thomas the train after releasing the throttle after running with boost on higher gears? on 1. and 2. gear it can't be heard. It sounds like it's coming from the exhaust in the back of the car. Fuel that's not burnt that's igniting in the exhaust?

Uploaded a video that gives a little impression of the sound. When driving I feel that it's louder than I was able to capture on video tho.

Link to youtube clip

[minim]

Now that the noise is fixed it's time to get my head around the other problem about the leaking rear differential. It's leaking from the seal on the right side of the car (output to wheel) and I see that many are recommending to use some seal softener to fix the problem. When I was in the town earlier I found out that seal softener costed twice as much as a brand new seal from my dealer so I went with the seal even if it's more work. Can't hurt to fix it properly when I'm at it ^^

Had a hard time finding the right oil for the diff/gear box but think I got it sorted. All the different oil manufacturers recommended different oils and many actually recommended the same as on the gear box. I went with the two oils in the picture here so please warn me if it's wrong before I put them on. The one to the left is for diff and to the right for the gearbox.

Was also thinking to maybe remove the cover that holds the seal on the side of the diff since I'm not 100% sure if it leaks from this cover or if it's from the actual seal. I guess the seal is the most common part but it can leak from that cover also right? New air vent on the top of the diff is also in order so I will replace that one if it can be done without taking the diff out.



The cover I was mentioning above is number 8 in this picture from 12v.org

[twoqu]

Some info here:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67458&highlight=diff+oil

Can't see why you would need special oil for the rear diff as its not an LSD!

[minim]

Some info here:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67458&highlight=diff+oil

Can't see why you would need special oil for the rear diff as its not an LSD!

That's the page I was using. The rear diff in that post is specified with gl5 sae 90 and the LSD oil is the only one I found that matched. The gearbox oil is GL4 so I can't use that.

[twoqu]

Probably something more like this:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-972-fuchs-titan-gear-hyp-90-hypoid-gear-oil-gl5-80w-90.aspx

Seems to exceed the MIL spec!
We have a representative from the company on here. His user name is Oilman I think!

[twoqu]

Looks like thats the alternative castrol one:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-724-castrol-axle-epx-80w-90-gear-oil.aspx

Its just without the LSD additives I guess.

[minim]

Looks like thats the alternative castrol one:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-724-castrol-axle-epx-80w-90-gear-oil.aspx

Its just without the LSD additives I guess.

I'm driving back to my supplier tomorrow to pick up more parts so I can switch the diff. oil then. Will fetch the castrol one you linked here since it fit the spec better and the price is about half of what I paid ^^

Thanks again

And to others doing a oil change on the rear diff, just order a new oil-filler bolt as the one coming out will be quite corroded and nasty if it's been on for a while. Spent a lot of time just to get mine off and putting it back in again is just asking for trouble the next time it's time for a oil change..

[UrS4boy]

Question: Why are you deleting photos from this thread? People coming in late to the thread are missing the photo info that you posted once but now is gone. Typically that is not done here. People leave their photos up and don't delete them.

[minim]

Question: Why are you deleting photos from this thread? People coming in late to the thread are missing the photo info that you posted once but now is gone. Typically that is not done here. People leave their photos up and don't delete them.

It's a problem with config on my webserver. Pictures is still in the same folder so must be a problem with my domain. Tnx for letting me know, will work on getting it up and running again as soon as possible.

[minim]

Urs4boy, moved all the pictures to a more stable host so now it should all be back when the download/upload are done

Started on the seal change now but it didn't take long before I noticed play both in/out and up/down on both output shafts . Should there be 1mm play in/out on the shafts? Up/down there where less than 1mm but I could feel play in that direction also on both sides. I guess there is no point in changing the seal when it's in this condition?

Made a buying thread on a norwegian forum for a used diff in good condition now.. I'm not sure how much it will cost me to overhaul the rear diff. It's tempting to do the overhaul since I know it will be good for a long time but I'm afraid of how much it will cost me and if I'm able to get all the parts. Any thoughts?

[minim]

After speaking to a few people about this I decided to replace the seal and see if the leak was fixed. From what I learned there should be a little bit of play in the rear diff output shafts since it's not shimmed 100% tight. It's however impossible to measure the play without taking the diff out of the car and check if the shimming is correct. Time will tell if it works or not.

Assembled everything today so it's ready for new oil tomorrow and a 300km+ testdrive