Red S2 avant

[andy j]

Andy, such a shame you have to sell up after all the work you have put in
Can you not store the other projects temporarily? You will really struggle to ever find another avant like this one

IF it does have to go, at least sell me the LMs first

Seriously though, find a way to keep it

If I can find a way to keep the car I will. I will need to get this ECU chip sorted before I sell it. I couldn't consciously sell the car to someone knowing there is a problem. I'm just not made that way!

[Error404]

Andy, such a shame you have to sell up after all the work you have put in
Can you not store the other projects temporarily? You will really struggle to ever find another avant like this one

IF it does have to go, at least sell me the LMs first

Seriously though, find a way to keep it

[andy j]

Did the new fuel tank cover come with a new seal as well? Also, what kind of a tool did you use for securing the black ring around it? I can never get it to go on very well.

The tank cover came without the gasket. I re used the one that was there. I just used my hands to tighten the black nut. The trick is to get the fuel lines high enough to start the nut square. This stops it cross threading and is tricky to do!

[Klobsters]

Did the new fuel tank cover come with a new seal as well? Also, what kind of a tool did you use for securing the black ring around it? I can never get it to go on very well.

[twoqu]

The white label on the boost chip was blank.

So its not silver with numbers starting 1 267? If not then its possible that it has been reprogrammed as you would need to remove the OE sticker to UV erase the chip.
However if it was reprogrammed they wouldn't need to ****** about with the wastegate! Unless of course somebody has touched the wastegate to get back the boost loss caused my the faulty MFTS! Who knows.
I would ensure that the mechanical boost level, i.e without the MFTS or N75 connected is within the standard 0.4-0.5bar range. Then see what happens when reconnected.
The consensus has been that Superchips did not touch the boost chip and used underisable ways to get increased boost, something that competent tuners did not!

[andy j]

The white label on the boost chip was blank.

[twoqu]

Oh well at least you have found out that its not Homefried in the S2 Forum sense!
We suspected that as the wastegate would not have been played with.
Can you get a shot of the boost chip, the one on the same board as the map sensor already pictured. It doesen't appear to have a mappers label on it which could be worrying as it implies it has not been reprogrammed.
The issue is of course you don't know what you have really. If the wastegate is now stock and the boost chip is unmodified, you shouldn't have more than stock level of boost say 1 Bar or 1.1ish! It has the hallmarks of a Superchips conversion, the encyption board and bodged wastegate. If that company was associated with Superchips that might explain it.

Just Googled that firm and they did rebadge Superchip conversions!

[andy j]

Success, i have boost!

I changed the connectors in the hope i didn't have to fork out £150 for a sensor from audi:



Unfortunately that didn't work. So i got a sensor from audi. I was expecting a four pin sensor but got a three pin:



They went and checked the system. The sensor was changed from a four to a three pin back in 1993:



I changed the sensor for the new one and the one that had come off was a three pin sensor:





I took the car out a drive and it so much faster now. The boost gauge seems to sit about 1.2/3 bar. I'm going to check the guage at work with my calibrated pressure tester to see how accurate it is.

Since buying the car there has always been a smell of fuel. When i last checked the fuel pump i noticed that the tank cover was split pritty much in two and the rubber seal wasn't fitted right. So i finally got round to swapping the old snapped one for new one from audi:



The new one fitted and the smell of fuel has gone:



My boot has been getting damp and the car steaming up. So i went looking and found it was coming from the rear lights. Turns out the only thing holding the rear lights in was the sealing gasket. Not a nut or bolt in sight!
So i ordered some sealing rope from audi. I stripped the old stuff off:



and refitted the lights properly with sealing rope and nuts:



I decided to take a look at the ECU to confirm that it was a homefries chip. I was met with this :







I have never heard of this company. I have done a bit of looking and they seem to do a lot with fords. Anybody on here heard of them before?

On another note.
My dad has decided to sell up his bodyshop business. This means i will have nowhere to work on/ look after the car. It also means that the other projects that i have on the go will need to be finished up before he shuts up shop. This unfortunately means the S2 will need to be sold to fund finishing everything else up. Its a a pain cause all the work i have put in to the car has finally payed off and it is driving brilliantly but needs must!

[UrS4boy]

Thanks for that guys. I have already changed the plug a while back for a new one. I cleaned the terminals up while swapping it but there might have been a faulty one I hadn't noticed.What's the chances the MFTS is faulty. Might just order a new one of those too just to get rid of any doubt.

Have a look at Martin62's thread, specfically post 8 where he has figured out that he has a faulty MFTS that was sending an over temp signal to his ABY ECU and the ECU was properly using that info (albeit false info) to decrease boost (this is an ABY and ADU issue not an AAN issue)

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79721

[andy j]

Thanks for that guys. I have already changed the plug a while back for a new one. I cleaned the terminals up while swapping it but there might have been a faulty one I hadn't noticed.
What's the chances the MFTS is faulty. Might just order a new one of those too just to get rid of any doubt.

[UrS4boy]

F76 Multifunction Temperature Switch R&R Info

Just suggestin............As you're doing the MFTS wiring, consider ordering a new 'brown' oem MFTS plug from the dealer, that connects to the MFTS sensor. A new plug is lovely, compared to a crumbly original. Relatively inexpensive.

F76 Multifunction Temperature Switch R&R Info including PNs for the plug and pins and pin-out complete the picture:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22584.phtml

[macspring]

So I just took the MFTS plug of and went a drive on my lunch break. The car is now boosting to 0.9 bar and is a lot quicker. So I'm still at full boost but the plug seems to be one of the problems!
So I've just ordered some terminals from here:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...emale-terminal

Just suggestin............As you're doing the MFTS wiring, consider ordering a new 'brown' oem MFTS plug from the dealer, that connects to the MFTS sensor. A new plug is lovely, compared to a crumbly original. Relatively inexpensive.

Following your trials and tribulations as you make progress. Hopefully you're nearing the end soon. When they go right they are addictive. When not, you feel like touching them when you can't work out what the problem is.

Hindsight is wonderful, but all cars tend to have issues. Once you get it all sorted, make sure you keep it for ages to full enjoy the benefit from all your grief, stress, hard work and expenditure.

Thanks for sharing all of the various issues for the rest of us to learn from.

[andy j]

Thanks for answering.
I was a bit confused that JHM specifies only transmissions from B5 with which I'm not familiar but then I thought 01E is 01E and now I see that this kit should fit as well transmission from diesel Audi C4, for example code DQT

Yeah, i thought the same when i first looked at the site to buy my kit!

[andy j]

Are you 100% sure it has a Homefries? The reason I ask is that wastegate mod would not be necessary on what we refer to as Homefries.
Its a shame you haven't spent some £ on a better method of fault code reading. Even an old Vag com would gives you some more info that might be useful other than just codes. For example you wouldn't get full boost without the ecu seing a certain full throttle value which is easily observerable with Vag com/VCDS. Again the reason I mention this is because you have had a TB issue previously. Perhaps you know someone locally who might be able to plug theirs in just to check a few things.

Can't say for sure if the car is a homefries. It was advertised as having a homefries chip in it when sold to me.
As for the fault code reading. This car was sold to me as one of the better example about at the time. So to me a basic code reader was all i was going to need. If i knew what i did now back then i would have invested in vag com or something better. I would probably go as far a saying i would have saved myself ££££'s and not have bought the car in the first place. I am hopefully getting to the end of the problems with the car so i can start enjoying it!

[sailaz]

This is the kit I ordered:

https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/01e-speed-full-rebuild-kit-jhm-performance-jhm-updated-collar-p-2054.html?cPath=21_56_60_102_26

I went for the kit with the updated jhm collar instead of the OEM collar.

Thanks for answering.
I was a bit confused that JHM specifies only transmissions from B5 with which I'm not familiar but then I thought 01E is 01E and now I see that this kit should fit as well transmission from diesel Audi C4, for example code DQT