Fuse made no difference but I noticed that it says ERR1 which means 'the disc is dirty or inserted incorrectly' which is obviously not right unless I was blind so it must be the lens. How on earth do you get in to clean that? Remove the whole thing from the boot and disembowel it?
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Yes, you should remove the whole thing. On my friend A6 c5 Avant it had the same problem, But after taking the casette of and pull all the disks off and then reinsert in different order it started working again.
If you can find, buy used but working one99' BMW 528iT (the Bear) - sold
07'-09' Linkoln MkS 3.7 (the Limo)
94' Audi 90 CS 2.8 (Barak Obama) -Dissasembled donor
97' Cabriolet 2.8 (Kremena) - sold
97' Cabriolet 2.8 (Albena) - the One
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Originally posted by Jack4688 View PostOriginally posted by Christophski View PostGet a simple remap and then leave it alone bud. You will be more than happy with it for a daily after that and a map is only £200 odd i think
I'm so full of sh*t, got it booked in for a remap for £150 in two weeks This has got to replace the thrills from the S2 until I emigrate so I can sort of justify it now.
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Originally posted by Jack4688 View PostI'm so full of sh*t, got it booked in for a remap for £150 in two weeks This has got to replace the thrills from the S2 until I emigrate so I can sort of justify it now.
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Well originally the plan was just to use it for a few months while I got round to sorting the S2. But now that I've decided it's sensible to sell the S2 sooner raher than later to help pay for a trip out to New Zealand before emigrating I'll be driving this for about 6-8 months. But I won't be spending silly money on thirteen different sets of wheels
No really I won't
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Originally posted by Christophski View PostYeh you will. And a lowering kit. And an exhaust to get a bit more with that map.... Been there done that... Doesn't end well. Figured I may as well buy an s2 so that's what I did lol
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These 1.8Ts seem to be really solid, my mate has had one for years with no issues at all.
B5 S4 if you can find one unmolested, remember the engine has to come out to do the turbos..
Beware of B6 S4 camchain madness.. http://jalopnik.com/here-s-why-the-v...car-1676466510
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Just changed the oil (some cheap stuff to flush out whatever was in there from when I bought it) and noticed the position of the oil filter. Am I right in thinking it's off at an angle, on the passenger side, under the water header tank? If so how the bloody hell do I get to it? I thought it may be possible to remove the header tank but keeping all pipes connected to gain access...
I'll be changing the oil to the proper stuff tomorrow along with filter, plugs and changing the front left brake caliper - wait until you see the state of that!
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So this is the old piston:
And together with the old caliper:
That thing was seized solid a few months back when I first discovered it, it popped out this time round!
While doing the caliper I discovered that the outer CV boot was split. I had a quick look on ebay today for replacement joints (it seems like I'll spend more money on a boot + tool than just on a joint kit) but can't seem to find one that is definitely compatible. I've never had much trust in ebay's vehicle compatability search when you're looking at an item but as well as that a lot of the suppliers omit the 132kw version from the list of cars in their blurb. Is it really a different joint to the lower power models?
To be safe I ended up just searching on GSF by my reg number it has come up with this, if it's the wrong part they should accept a return...
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You can reset it with VAG-COM, SRI reset.
I think you can also do something with the clock buttons and igintion on/off in a certain order if you google it.
Here is one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWRWD0GREto
Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon
Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
Sold ABY-stock
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