1993 URS4 Avant tidy up.

[Kieron20V]

No worries Chris all sorted now and I'm not blaming you for any of it, to be honest the worst thing was the amount of play in the tie rod ends, one side was completely shot with tonnes of play in it, I just accepted the vague steering as I thought it was supposed to be like that, and knew you'd had it looked over so thought it would be good.

Nearly back together now, subframe is back on, rh caliper fitted with new brake lines. Opposite side waiting to go on and then bleed brakes.

Bit annoyed at myself when fitting the subframe mounts, I didn't think the oem bolt heads would clear the subframe so I cut them down about half height so they were no longer proud, then noticed after I'd pretty much stripped the heads tightening them, that the sunframe has cut outs to tighten them after its all fitted up. Saw red and retired back to the house after that.

There's also a conduit with some wiring that mounts between the ARB and subframe that I can't seem to fit now, don't know wether it's just because the ARB has moved or I should have fitted it first, but I'm sure I took it off before the ARB so it should go on. Did you experience this macspring?

Pass side tie rod has been out, cleaned up, greased and new rod end fitted, will need the tracking doing properly when it gets MOTd but I measured everything before hand and put it back as close I could.

Once the suspension is back together I'm going to drop it on its wheels to look at height and clearance for the exhaust. The downpipe is waaay to long and sits below the gearbox currently, so needs a couple of inches taking out of the height before I start the rest of it. Sounds ace with just the downpipe though haha.

All seats are out at the minute too, looking for a leather set but might just have a go at repairing the bolster some time and give them a good wash.

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[Kieron20V]

Moved under its own power again today. All suspension work done and back together. Interior has had a bit of a deep clean while it's out, and I'm just going to stick with the cloth seats for now as the only set I found, the chap wanted 800 for them and needed the bolster repairing. Coocoo. I might have a go at refoaming the knackered drivers side to keep me happy at some point. Anybody ever tried this diy?

Next big job is the down pipe. I have a 034/dna 3" pipe that I've cut down as it was way too long for some reason, the bottom section was pretty much on the floor, and I'm at standard ride height so that didn't work.

I've lopped it off just about the drive shaft and will cut a few inches out of it till it looks good, and will vband it for ease of removal/installation. Bought a chop saw this weekend so I've been waiting till now to crack on with it, much easier now.

Few other niggles I want to sort:

Wiper motors noisy - May pull apart and regrease.
Back light for boost gauge needs wiring.
Afterrun pump has started dripping.
Brake pad warning is still on despite new pads up front. Suspect the connectors here as the old ones just crumbled when I replaced them.

Sounds awesome with just the down pipe, but you all know that anyway.

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[Vorsprung durch Technik]

There's also a conduit with some wiring that mounts between the ARB and subframe that I can't seem to fit now, don't know wether it's just because the ARB has moved or I should have fitted it first, but I'm sure I took it off before the ARB so it should go on. Did you experience this Macspring?

I can't remember why i removed that conduit but it was while doing an oil change but yeah it should go on no problem but it's a tight fit just a few mm to play with.On mine the white nylon/plastic bolt blocks one was threaded so couldn't re use.Can you see the white pieces to take the bolts?

[Dift]

The lack of back light for the boost gauge was definitely me

1) I didn't have time to wire it up.
2) I would have made a mess of it even if I had time!

I was going to paint the bulb orange to try and match the OEM dials.

We'll have to meet up again at some point, I would love to see the old girl after this impressive amount of TLC!

[Kieron20V]

I can't remember why i removed that conduit but it was while doing an oil change but yeah it should go on no problem but it's a tight fit just a few mm to play with.On mine the white nylon/plastic bolt blocks one was threaded so couldn't re use.Can you see the white pieces to take the bolts?

I sorted this, I just had to tweak the brskets back slightly as they had bent a little on removing as the subframe was hanging off them at one point. The pipe has the starter wiring through it by the way. You can see it in alberts thread for the mounts, someone posted a picture of it fitted. All good now.

Yeh Chris, when it's back on the road come and have a look, I may even sell it back to you if you're bored of playing with lotus' already haha.

Haven't got round to getting the wings sorted yet, no rush. I just want to drive it again, can't wait.

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[slacky]

You've been busy , Any recent pics Kieron ? Be interested to see your boost /computer read out backlight repair
Cheers

[Dift]

You've been busy , Any recent pics Kieron ? Be interested to see your boost /computer read out backlight repair
Cheers

It was just to wire up the standalone boost gauge, the instrument cluster was fine.

Kieron, please don't tempt me to buy it back! I bet it's like a different car to drive now... It'll certainly smell like one when the exhaust is fixed

Lotus' are OK for now... But I do miss having the wagon!

[macspring]

Sorry Kieron, only saw your question in the thread just now. Mine was tight to fit. I felt that the passenger side bracket on the conduit was not welded by the factory in the 'right' place which was not an issue before I fitted Albert's mounts. A bit of bending 'fixed' it. If the white plastic studs are threaded. Put section of zip tie into it before putting in the bolt. It makes the hole 'tight' again like you've 'sleeved' it.

Just buy new bolts in the dealer to replace the hacked ones. We've all done something similar at some point.

Worth doing a job on the wipers mechanism. Watch out for the small rubber washers and the thin metal shim washers. Copper grease on reassembly. Circlips pliers required to make things easier / less fiddly.

My after-run pump is leaking also. Pretty new as well.

Consider getting a spare good condition outer bolster from the inner bolster of a passenger front seat ? Use zip ties to replace the oem hog rings on reassembly. Have a 'powerful' snips to hand to cut all the metal hog-rings when you go to take the driver's seat base apart. It's a fair bit of work but satisfying when it is eventually reassembled.

[Kieron20V]

Cracked on a bit with the exhaust tonight, made the downpipe fit and its looking good for clearance and height.

Will be Running 3" through a resonator where cats were, a mid box recycled from my v8 coupe where the original went under rear seats, and then splitting into 2x 2.25" into the original rear box as its still in decent nick and I dont want it straight through all the way. If its too quite I can always pull either the resonator or the mid box, but rather start with both than have to add in later. Im Currently running on a standalone wideband controller feeding a simulated narrowband output back into motronic and have the sensor hooked up in free air to keep the ecu from throwing a heating circuit code. But I'll add 2 lambda bosses into this downpipe, the narrowband just after the flange, and the wideband a little further down to keep it a bit cooler.

Some pics.

[andy10v]

Downpipe looks tidy

[Kieron20V]

Downpipe looks tidy

Cheers.


Only got this far so far, this goes to just behind the gearbox ish. Re-used a few bits and bends off the coupe. I've cut the brackets off the cats and all boxes so hoping to retain some of the original hangers. This bit will have the bracket that bolts through springs to the bottom of the gearbox.

Waiting for resonator to arrive before rest of it gets finalized.

May end up didtching the original back box as I've mucked up on ordering some bits, will still run with large box for back box, I've a smaller round box which can go in the mid box, and with the resonator in there somewhere it should be pretty quiet enough.



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[slacky]

Looking good

[Kieron20V]

Bit more done tonight. Downpipe fully welded, added lambda bosses and wrapped it. All fitted for good now, doesn't need to come off for the rest of it. Bracket to gearbox for next section has been welded on removed from the cats and bent to fit.

Resonator arrived today and it's pretty compact so will be going in the tunnel under the prop, just want to fettle the heat shield to get as much ground clearance as possible.

And I'm leaning towards resonator --> large rectangle box --> round box with twin pipes for back box
Rather than keeping the original back box. I've got all the bits to make it work like this, to use the original I need to make it back into 2 x 2.25" pipes from the 3" instead of a full 3" throughout with what I have. Looking forward to hearing it purr again and getting some miles on her.

Some pics.











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[Kieron20V]

Nearly there. Gave up on the exhaust, too much of a pain on axle stands and not got the time to do it properly.

Ended up sending it to my mate at CGRAutomotive who did the downpipe for me. Not cheap but at least it's done right now with no compromise.

Hopefully be done later this week and I can get it Motd beginning of next week and enjoy some sun if we ever get some.

I also finally tracked down a good set of manual leather seats to fit.

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[Dift]

Good to hear Kieron... How does the exhaust sound?