2.6 L upgrade bottom for sale

[Micky B]

Hello,

This is for sale like a kit for 5 cyl upgrade to 2.6 L 20v turbo:
H beam steel rods,
Forged pistons with pins,rings bore 82.5 mm
diesel crank, balanced - stroke 95.5 mm
bearings rs2 (rod,main,thrust)

all parts new, never used exept. crank!

pm or

email bauern2o@t-online.hu

[stroker]

Quick question. Isn't a true 2.6l bored to 83mm? Or is 82.5mm considered close enough??
& whats the MM of the rods you have?? 159mm??

[Micky B]

May be yes, with 82.5mm bore 2553 ccm, so its 3 ccm closer to the 2,6 then 2,5
It better to keep the cyl walls as thick as possible.

If needed i can give head gasket for this upgrade.
Its copper with fire rings, it holds as much boost as you want !! 165 Euro.

[Jon441cc]

May be yes, with 82.5mm bore 2553 ccm, so its 3 ccm closer to the 2,6 then 2,5
It better to keep the cyl walls as thick as possible.

If needed i can give head gasket for this upgrade.
Its copper with fire rings, it holds as much boost as you want !! 165 Euro.

o-ringed block

[Micky B]

Some pics.

[Micky B]

pics

[newsh]

How much?

Well someone had to ask

[Ducky]

Do you know what brand the rods/pistons are; and also wot model car is the diesel crank out of?

Ta

[stroker]

May be yes, with 82.5mm bore 2553 ccm, so its 3 ccm closer to the 2,6 then 2,5
It better to keep the cyl walls as thick as possible.

If needed i can give head gasket for this upgrade.
Its copper with fire rings, it holds as much boost as you want !! 165 Euro.

This is what I got below vvvvv,

Eurovan Deck Height: 236mm
Eurovan Stroke: 95.5mm
Pauter Rod Length: 159mm
Pauter Rod Wrist pin diameter: 21mm
Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.665:1
Compression height of pistons: 29.25mm
Piston Dish Volume: -11cc
Piston Bore: 83mm
Total Displacement: 2583.6cc
7A Combustion chamber volume: 44-45cc
Compressed headgasket thickness: 1.875mm
Headgasket volume: 10cc
Compression Ratio

Thats my lower end. I was just courious as to why you didn't just go to 83mm bore to make it a true 2.6l.

Planning on 550WHP low reving about 28PSI of boost.

[4WheelDrifter]

It better to keep the cyl walls as thick as possible.

.

[Micky B]

Yes, and u have 1 stage left for repair to 83.00mm. But its not a problem to change the pistons in the kit from 81-83mm.I have them.

Stroker

This kit is different, it can be installed in the normal block (about 220 mm long block),
like 3b,ABY,ADU ...

http://fish.e98.hu/Fish/AVE/Tokol20060729_DivX.avi

Black coupe quattro, engine by me , 2.5L 20v,uses the same kit.
10.58@1/4 mile

[Chris5044]

i take it this setup is known as a "stroker" setup? or am i wrong?

[stroker]

Yes, and u have 1 stage left for repair to 83.00mm. But its not a problem to change the pistons in the kit from 81-83mm.I have them.

Stroker

This kit is different, it can be installed in the normal block (about 220 mm long block),
like 3b,ABY,ADU ...

http://fish.e98.hu/Fish/AVE/Tokol20060729_DivX.avi

Black coupe quattro, engine by me , 2.5L 20v,uses the same kit.
10.58@1/4 mile

Micky B, so you'r saying that the 95.5mm crank can be used in the smaller height I-5 block? But why wouldn't you want to take advantage of the taller block with the longer stroked crank?? More displacement, ect...? Wouldn't the crank be limited to the shorter 144mm rods? & smaller chambers?
& why not use the 92.8mm crank instead? You'd only need to change the pistons if that crank is used. I think it would be 2.4l with that crank in the blocks 3b, & AAN..here in the States.
What are the specs on the rods & pistons you're using?

Again these are just questions cause I'm curious..not cause I'm being confrontational. I've found that since I said that I was building a 2.6l stroker motor I got more e-mail about it that I would have expected. Meaning I got most e-mails that went like this..."it will never work proper..you'll just blow the motor up"

Again thanx fer the info & insight

[Micky B]

The same words i heard when i first built this kit. " it will not work, blow the engine, blablabla". But it works fine more then 2 years. And makes power like i designed on paper

Why i build this like this?:
my costumer wanted to keep the block!
i told him i can do it
normal sized rods cheaper,easy to buy
cheaper to buy only the crank
don't have to mod anything, just bore the block, which u have to make anyway
piston weight very low (278 grs!!), which is more inportant then rod weight!!!!!!!
the rod also lighter (580-600grs) so rotating mass lighter too.
he wanted to use hyd cams so the red limit cant be more then 7500 rpm to be safe
solid race tapetts very expensive!!!!
the longer rod only ness. if u go above 8000 rpm, by my opp

Like this u keep expenses low, performance high,usebility good, endurance good.

[Micky B]

stroker:

the displacement not differs from the rod lenght u use,
dis= bore*bore*Pi/4*stroke*5 !!!