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Is this the metal loop you mean Jake?
I don't have the 3B engine so I can't go and take a look at mine.
As it doesn't look like anything bolts to it, maybe just a retainer for a vac hose? just guessing! I'm sure one of the 3B lads will know more.
Jas
2001 Avus Silver B5 RS4.
2004 A4 Avant 1.8T quattro Sport-LE.
1995 S2 Coupe - sold (sniff)
Hey Jake - send my regards to Mikki - I'll PM you to get a good Email address for him... Assuming we're still 'talking' ...
Sounds like you are having fun with the hoses. The hoop in that metal middle section is just a carrier for the narrow tubing that links from the diverter valve control port along the pressure pipe to where it joins the rear of the inlet manifold.
If you can make it to Billing you are sure to see plenty other 3B's for comparison. Hope you got the stock diverter valve the right way round.
Paul
Originally posted by Jake
Just got off the phone with Allen at VAG and it looks like I'm all set. He was very helpful and even faxed over a few diagrams to help identify everything I need. You guys are correct; it was indeed missing the diverter valve. We also spotted the 90 degree plastic elbow necessary to complete the assembly so that's on the way too.
We also talked a bit about the Samco section connecting the IC outlet to the metal inlet tube. He guesses I have it right but the ill fitting was simply down to Samco's poor factory copy.
The one thing we weren't able to figure out was what I needed for the small metal loop on the metal tube sandwiched between the two Samco pieces which run from the IC outlet to the metal intake tube running front to back on top of the engine (item 25, fig 145-50). He thought there was supposed to be a bracket of sorts from the cylinder head or something off the heat shields (Item 9 or 17, fig 145-50) that mated up to that metal loop on item 25 to help steady the piping. However, both heat shields are in place but there is nothing near that loop that I could bolt to. Anybody know of a bracket or something that I may be missing?
Anyway, I also picked up some new front discs. Miki provided new rear discs/pads and new front pads, but no new front discs. It seems logical that he would want them too so they're on there way with the diverter valve stuff.
I gave Audi a call and rescheduled the MOT for the 16th so hopefully I'll have everything sorted by then. I can't wait to see this old girl back on the road. It's been Miki's mistress for so long (although parked for a few years), its time she got her wheels wet again.
Thanks for all your help fellas. I appreciate the hospitality. I'll keep you informed of the progress.
Hey Jake - send my regards to Mikki - I'll PM you to get a good Email address for him... Assuming we're still 'talking' ...
I’ll PM you his work addy as soon as I get back to work on Monday. However, I myself am having a real hard time getting a hold of him.
Originally posted by S2central.net
Sounds like you are having fun with the hoses. The hoop in that metal middle section is just a carrier for the narrow tubing that links from the diverter valve control port along the pressure pipe to where it joins the rear of the inlet manifold.
Thanks Paul! That explains that. LOL Here I’ve been thinking it was some kind of mount. Ironic, that vacuum hose is the one other thing Allen is sending. Hehe…
Originally posted by S2central.net
If you can make it to Billing you are sure to see plenty other 3B's for comparison. Hope you got the stock diverter valve the right way round.
Paul
Billing? Is this an upcoming meet?
Well, I’d better wrap it up for the night. You guys have really helped a ton with this big problem of mine. I’m glad I started here.
Just wanted to pass on an update on Mikki's car and ask one more question.
VAG got the parts to me this last Friday but I've had to work 7pm-7am since Thursday and haven't had time to get back on the 'ol girl. Well with Tuesday's MOT looming over my head I have to do something. So when I got home this morning I just changed cloths and headed out to the garage to try and sort out those hoses.
4 hours later the entire Samco kit was installed. By this point I was seriously cutting into my sleep but with everything sorted I couldn't help myself but hook up the ECU and see if she cranked.
Now keep in mind she hasn't ran in 3 years or so and I have no idea if she'll even fire. But with the MOT closing in soon I had to see where I stood. So I hooked up the battery and gave the key a turn. Wouldn't you know it, the dang thing fired right up!!!
I just couldn't believe it. With all the trouble I've been having trying to figure this car out she fires right up as if she'd been driven just yesterday. She idled perfectly, no leaks, no spills, no misfires, nothing. Once warmed up I gave the throttle a few blips and all sounds normal.
I'm really excited at this point and I owe you guys one. I really appreciate the help, I honestly could not have done it without it.
I've emailed Mikki but I haven't heard back from him. I'll try to call him tonight if we get off work. The only thing I've got left before taking her to the dealership is to get her off the trailer, replace the front discs and pads, bleed the front brakes (rear is done), install the undercarriage panel up front and the little trim piece under the head lights. Oh, and there's an ABS sensor sleeve for the rear that needs to be installed too.
If the MOT goes well they're going to press on with a 4 wheel alignment and then I can tax her and put her back on the road, officially. The last few bits I need to do is install some minor interior trim pieces and replace the drivers door window mechanism and door hinges. I think it'll be a pain but I'll be so happy the MOT is done that it won't matter.
There is one question I have though which I forgot to mention earlier. When I was putting the rear end back together there were 2 vacuum hoses which go to the diff lock valve (if that's what you call it). They were color coded blue and yellow if I recall correctly. Anyway, I don't know which one goes to which nipple on the air lock valve. If anybody knows could you let me know so I can be sure they're hooked up correctly?
Well, I can't say its been fun, but it sure was a challenge. Kind of like peeling off a band aid. It sucks, but when its over with it feels sooo good.
So thanks again yawl. I'll letcha know how the MOT goes.
Well I finished with the front brakes this morning. For some reason the new pads (Pagid) didn't have threads in the holes for the anti-rattle clips. Are these supposed to be threaded? I'm unable to install the clips at the moment.
I also got the front undercarriage panel in, finished the interior trim, installed the rear ABS sleeve and refitted the sensor.
When I went to do the front brakes I found both wheels had a locking bolt, to which I did not have the key. Took me 2 hours to drill them and easy-out them off. Bit of a set back but its done and now sports all new lug bolts.
Does anybody have any input on those two vacuum lines for the rear diff air lock valve? I'd like to confirm that one before I get to the dealer tomorrow morning.
I took it for a little spin in the neighborhood to bed the brakes in and let me tell you, that thing is a beast to handle. The alignment must me all messed up at the moment. It appears the rear wheels are towed out. Boy, it sure shows it. WOT acceleration is all over the place. Oh well, the alignment should fix that.
One last question, ABS does not appear to be working (lights on and the system is definitely not functioning). I know this a bit vague, but are there any common ABS faults with this car to get me headed in the right direction. Also, are the rear ABS rings mounted on the half shafts or the hub bearings? I don't remember seeing any ABS rings on the half shafts. I mention this because Miki had them rebuilt and I've only ever seen them on the half shafts. If they were meant to have them this may be why the ABS is not working.
Like I said, I don't remember seeing them but I wasn't looking for them in particular. I just had another peek and I'd have to pull the half shaft out from the hub to confirm. I'll wait to see if the dealer can test for a signal. If they can't get a pulse then we know where to start. Cheers.
Again, does anybody know the correct vacuum hose orientation for the rear diff air lock valve/actuator?
And, are the holes for the front brake anti-rattle clip supposed to be threaded? They must. My tap set has pointed ends and that hole is so shallow it won't allow the tap to go in deep enough to begin threading. I sure hope I don't need to change the pads again.
Do ya know if those outboard pads are supposed to threaded to accept the anti-rattle clip bolts?
Oh, and the pads Mikki left me had the pad wear sensors but it appears there isn't a corresponding plug on the chassis side. Is this 1991 S2 supposed to have pad wear indication?
I'd say the ABS fault is caused by a faulty alignment of the sensor you installed. It has to be very close to the ABS ring on the CV joint. First adjust it all the way in and then take it out just very slightly and you're there.
ABS light stays on with too low system voltage also... and with diff lock engaged.
Ah HAH! You may be onto something there my friend. With the big question mark over those vacuum lines on the rear diff, they could be backwards and actuating the lock to the engaged side. Hmm... that's a very real possibility.
As for the ABS sensor installation, unless I'm mistaken you can't have it too close (aside from actual contact). When I installed it I inserted it as far as it would go. Is it possible to get it in far enough to make contact with the ABS ring?
Any advice on the pad sensors and the anti-rattle clip screws holes?
Thanks again guys. I'll double check those vacuum lines and pull that sensor to see if it made any contact with the ring.
Ok, just checked the vacuum lines and they were on correctly. I'll pull that sensor back out and have a look. If there is nothing obvious I'm just going to press on with the MOT and ask them to troubleshoot it. Well, just another hour or so and she'll be attempting her first MOT in almost 3 years. Wish her luck.
Well I just got off the phone with the dealer. The MOT has failed but just for the rear light cluster. I'm not yet sure what the problem is but apparently they're still troubleshooting it.
They also had problems with the front steering tie rods. During the 4 wheel alignment they couldn't get them adjust so they'll need to be replaced. Stings a bit at £210 for the two of them.
They haven't said anything about the ABS light which I've asked them to troubleshoot. But other than that it seems the MOT went ok. They expect to have it done tomorrow, so one more day and she'll be back on the road.
BTW, anybody have any advice on the brake pad screw holes that are not threaded for the anti-rattle clips? I assume I'm just going to have to order a new set.
Rear disco lights maybe? I've had to replace both bulb carriers to stop this. Leaky rear lights caused the corrosion on the carriers. All sealed up now and no problems so far.
Regarding the track rods: No offence intended, but do they know what they are doing?
Many years ago, when I trusted others to work on my car, I had the alignment checked at a four wheel alignment 'specialist'.
So there I sat in the waiting room. What seemed like eons later, the d!ckheads came out and told me they had the gas torch on the track rods for half an hour, and just could not get them undone. So I took the car home, only to find I could undo them by hand!
I guess the idiots didn't know about the tapered locking collar then. My track rods were ruined.
They then denied all knowledge of the problem. ********!
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