My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[K Simmonds]

The camber tolerance's are very wide on these cars, if it drives nicely I wouldn't worry about it too much, unless it wares the inside of the tyre.

You could also possibly loose it by slacking off the wheel baring housing to strut bolts and pulling the top of the housing away from the strut, there's normally about half a degree of camber to play with in that area.

[B5NUT]

Had the car at Automark today. All went well and he got the car 99.5 fully aligned with just with one slight camber issue on the nearside front. It's got 0.5 deg too much negative camber. Now he could have been able to resolve that but it would have meant seeing if the front subframe could be adjusted slightly. However that would have change the caster, camber and toe on the other side. So it could have taken a lot more time, effort and money all for 0.5 of a deg. I had also only booked the morning off work so spending the hole day there was not an option. Have to say he's one of the few garages that I would trust with my S2.

He also talked about camber bolt to resolve the issue which I think I'll look into. But I'm not overly worried about such a small of excess negative camber.

[Rikki Kitto]

Great thread a pleasure to read keep up the amazing work bro

[Jaswan]

I'd have offered the use of a wing from my car if you were stuck but bloody hell that was a rapid repair!

Looking good mate and good luck for tomorrow!

Jase.

[B5NUT]

So it's been a crap couple of days with the S2. I'm booked in with Automark tomorrow for the alignment and stupidly I decided to "fix" the rust on the inside of the drivers side wing, Big Mistake. While using the wire brush on the drill to get into all the edges to remove the surface rust, the wire brush when straight through the panel at the bottom of the wing.

It's clear the wing has seen work before, as it was covered in filler and sealant (all now removed) and masses of black schutz that had just been painted over the rust.
1-black.jpg
No before of the hole but this was the amount of welding required. I used my old gasless MIG on this as there would be no way I could have done this on the TIG. Which reminds me I need to get that welder converted to gas.

Not the best of looking but better than filler (I hope).
hole.jpg
2-hole.jpg
Also had to repair the upper mounting point for the front bumper as it had been almost snapped off and the hole had been damaged.
3-hole.jpg

Back of the wing after being having all the rust removed and a rust converter applied as I'm never going to get rid of all the pitting.
4-back.jpg
For the rear I've used a Lechler Two-pack epoxy primer-sealer/filler which has an anticorrosion zinc-phosphate in the paint. I used to sear buy the epoxy from rust.co.uk but they changed the formal of their latest stuff and really don't rate it anymore. Nice things about the Lechler is it can be matched to any solid colour you what.
6-paint.jpg

Once the back was done I moved on to the front, the poor welding was covered by a little bit of filler and then painted. Took a while to paint the wing as I kept getting fry up from some of the old paint where I had gone down to the metal. So had to sand them back and build up very light coats to stop any further fry up from happening. So at 1am this morning I finally finished putting the last coat of 2K clear on. I've given it a good 4 coats so I have plenty of clear to flatten back and polish up.
wing1.jpg

There are a few nibs that I will need to deal with a it's got a fair amount of orange peal but that will be all sorted when it's wet sanded and polished up in the next couple of weeks.
5-wing.jpg

Will be able to get it back on the car later this afternoon, as I also found a small amount of rust where the lower section of the car where the wing mounts to the body, so sorted that this morning and just waiting for the paint to dry.

Just hope this is the last bodged jobs I find on the car. What else could the last 2 owners make an **** of, that I have not already dealt with

[B5NUT]

This morning I replaced the pins in the connectors. However it would a appear that I will have further problems at some point. After I cut the plug off and stripped back the sheath of the copper cable it has a fair amount of oxidation running along the sheath. How far that goes back I have no idea but it will need to be replaced. Will need to order the correct gauge and colour cable and replace the 6 lower harness cables. All the other cables in the harness that go to the switches appear to be OK.

Also today I replaced the brake reservoir. Etka no longer lists the replacement sensor for the RHD cars but the part number is 893611377 the LHD one has an A on the end.

For some reason someone had removed the filter on the old tank and there was a fair amount of dirt in there.
1-tank.jpg

Fitted new seals as they are still used in a lot of VAG group cars PN# 357611817 about £4 each
2-seals.jpg
New tank fitted and you will need to cut the end bit off where I assume the rubber pipe connected to the reservoir is for the clutch system. Tanks are still available from Tradition PN#8A0611301B.
3-tank.jpg

[Tractor Dave]

It's a good community

[B5NUT]

This is a post about the forum members on here. There was a resent thread where a member had a car for three months then sold it and blamed the members on here for not helping (Even when they did). Well I wanted to put the record straight about the members on here.

Today this package turned up in the post
parts.jpg

Now, I've not asked anyone for these and I've not paid for them. However one member saw my recent post about the issues on my door lock problems. They took the time and money to find some pins and seals, package them up pay for the postage and then take time and fuel to get them to the nearest post office or post box.

On all the Audi forums I've been on over the years I've never met a kinder more generous bunch of people. That I've never even met in person. Anyway. Thankyou to the member that sent these out. Also thankyou to all the members who have loaned me tools, provided me with parts & services and provide me with all the information I've needed during the rebuild of my S2. I hope to be able to return the favours some day

Thanks
Lee

[K Simmonds]

Good plan.

[B5NUT]

Yes, I'll invest in a can. Think I as go around connections I get them cleaned up as this is not going to be the last plug that is suffering from oxidisation and other contamination.

[K Simmonds]

Very glad to hear you got to the bottom of this one, as you mentioned in a PM it was driving you crazy, it would me too!

I'll say it again, perhaps invest in a tin or DeoxitD5.

Not just for old connections but also new as it lubricates and projects them, as far I'm concerned the stuff is like tinned magic when it comes to electronics.

[Bowie69]

Fingers crossed it does!

Often I have found similar to you, tbh, just disassemble, wiggle, and things start working again.

[B5NUT]

I'll get replacements on order if they are plated. Just want to make 100% sure that this is going to fix the fault.

[Bowie69]

Cool, very good news.

Pins in plugs are plated, so either best to replace or use a chemical to clean the plating gently (contact cleaner, surprisingly enough) or you remove the plating and the oxide will return, and this time be in the base metal.

The alternative for you now is to fill the contact with vaseline and click it back on, and should last your lifetime.

[B5NUT]

The unknown fix to the central locking system was just temporary. A few days later it came back, then went away for another couple of days then came back and the fault continued. After taking about the contacts on the MAF and how they can give faulty readings I decided to take the door cards of again and look at the contacts on both plugs
connecotrs.jpg

Sure enough both the pins and the plugs were covered in oxidation. Used a needle file on the plugs and a emery board on the pins. After cleaning both side the locking immediately started working perfectly again. As I've only touch these 4 plugs and it's all working again I'm now sure this is where the fault is or was. So hoping that cleaning the connectors has cured the issue. If I'm still having issues then I'll re-pin all the plugs.