My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • B5NUT
    replied
    I know. It's why I wanted the BAM engine version rather than the lesser 180 version. Everything so far appears to work on the car including the Haldex.

    However it does need a dam good service and a fair amount of work to bring it up to a good level.

    Leave a comment:


  • fish
    replied
    Nothing wrong with a BAM TT. Its basicly an Audi S3 mk1 Facelift with a different body. And when it functions properly, the Haldex is actually great.

    Leave a comment:


  • B5NUT
    replied
    Well not much done on my S2 since I fixed the boost leak, and I've just had the pleasure of driving the car without any further issues. However a decision has been made about the car!

    That is I'm not going to run it as my daily driver. When the bad weather comes and the roads get covered in salt, it will be put away under cover and my next project car will be used! Hair cut anyone? It's the 1.8 225BHP BAM engine model with the fake quattro haldex stuff


    1665087775447.png
    Last edited by B5NUT; 6 October 2022, 22:38.

    Leave a comment:


  • B5NUT
    replied
    Cheers Kit. Have sent you a PM

    Leave a comment:


  • K Simmonds
    replied
    I'm fine guys don't worry, just had a bit of a stomach bug and been busy helping my folks.

    Glad you got your leak sorted, I suspect it was that hose from the turbo causing the problem.

    I can send you a bulb or two on Monday, I have about 90 of them.

    Leave a comment:


  • B5NUT
    replied
    Been trying to get hold of Kit. He's not been on the forum for the past week. Hope all is well with him

    Leave a comment:


  • Rikki Kitto
    replied
    Originally posted by newsh

    On eBay they are actually listed as “grain of rice bulbs”
    Kits just bought loads so don't buy any

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    I might have some of those bulbs somewhere …

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    Originally posted by B5NUT
    Had a good long run this lunch time. All codes have now gone and it's pulling really well all the way up to 7K. Thanks for the help on sorting this
    Always a pleasure man, I mostly try to pass on what I learnt here

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    Originally posted by Rikki Kitto
    Kit can sort the tiny bulb out for you in the temp display it's a pain to do they are the size of a grain of rice
    On eBay they are actually listed as “grain of rice bulbs”

    Leave a comment:


  • Rikki Kitto
    replied
    Kit can sort the tiny bulb out for you in the temp display it's a pain to do they are the size of a grain of rice

    Leave a comment:


  • B5NUT
    replied
    Had a good long run this lunch time. All codes have now gone and it's pulling really well all the way up to 7K. Thanks for the help on sorting this

    Leave a comment:


  • B5NUT
    replied
    I would not say it's a massive change, but does feel like it's got a bit more power.

    I know there there is always something. Still need to fix all the rattles on the car when I can be bothered. I just want to drive it. It's been off the road for the last couple of weeks while I sorted this issue out.

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    Originally posted by B5NUT
    Thanks Dave. I'll have a search later on.

    Took the car our and all faults have gone. However I did find another problem.

    Looks like the bulbs have failed in the external temperature display
    temp.jpg
    Good news the faults have gone, does the car feel a bit more brisk?

    There's always something more to do eh?

    Leave a comment:


  • newsh
    replied
    The ISV is not a huge leak but worth doing, as Dave says, epoxy seems to be the way.

    When you get that done you want to be able to pump it up to 1.3 Bar and it holds or drops really slowly.
    You can do 0.5 Bar test with the PCV reconnected to the MAF hose too which will check your breather system and oil filler cap! (you might need to hold the oil cap down but again it should only ever see vacuum).
    Finally to check the Diverter Valve diaphragm, pull the actuator hose off the nipple at the front of the manifold and check it holds vacuum, or block the nipple, pressurise the system and make sure nothing comes out the vac line.

    Leave a comment:

Working...