A little something to keep me busy

[Tractor Dave]

As above that engine looks like it hasn't had it's oil changed very often at all. Obviously bin the splash guard and checking the the oil pick up wouldn't be a bad idea at all. Then run it lightly with something like VAG 10W-40 oil and a tin or two of engine flush for a couple of 100 miles before dropping that and putting fresh oil in.

My thoughts exactly. I was going to run some semi synthetic as a cleaning oil for a few miles as you say then add the expensive stuff.

[Tractor Dave]

That engine looks very neglected. Are you looking to drop the sump to check the pickup is clean.

Good plan I think.

[K Simmonds]

As above that engine looks like it hasn't had it's oil changed very often at all. Obviously bin the splash guard and checking the the oil pick up wouldn't be a bad idea at all. Then run it lightly with something like VAG 10W-40 oil and a tin or two of engine flush for a couple of 100 miles before dropping that and putting fresh oil in.

[B5NUT]

That engine looks very neglected. Are you looking to drop the sump to check the pickup is clean.

[Tractor Dave]

And the splash guard has just started to break up


Looks like I got there just in time.


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[Tractor Dave]

It’s a bit grubby inside



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[Tractor Dave]

After painting the brakes went back in the oven to cure.


I got new piston and seal kits from brakes International. They were £25 each which isn’t too bad. Quality seems good.


I’ve not done calipers like these before. Quite a fiddle but all came together in the end.


I’ve got a crank seal and rocker cover gasket to fit tomorrow.





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[Tractor Dave]

All nice and clean. De greased and given 5 mins in the oven to dry quickly.


Then some Bilt and ready for vht caliper paint.



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[K Simmonds]

I like the use of electrolysis on calipers, good thinking!

Had a quick scan for a bolt, so far no joy, the long ones I put to one side are all around 150mm long with thread just on the ends so they'd be no good even if cut down. I do have a lot more fixings to rummage through though, will see what I can come up with.

[Tractor Dave]

Maybe if I had a small water heater in the Bilt solution it would have done better. I've been using the electrolysis method for a while now and it does a brilliant job on calipers.

[Nuvo]

I suspected it might be. A fun little test none the less.

[Tractor Dave]

Electrolysis is the clear winner.


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[Tractor Dave]

I made a start on the front brakes. They are very rusty.
I spent an hour or so cleaning with the wire wheel after taking apart. Then, a little experiment. One side went in Bilt de rust solution.


And the other in the side went into the electrolysis tub. We will see which wins.
I have new pistons and seals coming from Brakes International who I have used a few times before.



Now. Calling you Urs4/6 owners. Brake pads. I have ordered a set and they came without the little counter weight and spring pieces that are on two of the original pads. Have I got the wrong set?


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[Tractor Dave]

Something else that was about to fail.


These two hoses have been changed before. Looks like they used just standard cheap water hose. They are not Audi hoses. They were both very close to failing.


Everything cleaned up and ready for new parts. I’ve ordered Samco hoses from Merlin Motorsport. The thinner long turbo coolant hose is 9.5 ID and the short hose from the thermostat housing is 19mm. These are both nla from Audi.



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[K Simmonds]

If the crank locking tool is for Diesels then it won't lock a petrol engine in the correct timing position, for some reason the location lug in bottom pulley is in a completely different place. I discovered this myself when I first tried using my home made tool for S2's etc on a T4, it'll still do the job but it's a bit more hassle.