My 3B-AAN 400 HP project

[Pirvu Eugen]

I didint noticed any problems at the head..but..really... the feel...was much more easy to tight these ARP at 110 NM than oem bolts at the last 90 degrees.
I am thinking that..maibe..using this torque..will no longer need retorque...but i dont know really...
I will see after the first heat cycle.

[DJones]

Interesting regarding the fact that DJones's UR is pushing 450 WHP with 65 FT LBS with no problems..(God help) to stay like this...

Been like it for 6 years, if I'm honest I wouldn't be happy at 80 ft lbs, 60 ft lbs marks the head enough under the washers..

[pasbogdan]

Be careful at milling machine to have lots of tools:cones,romanian term:dornuri,pensete.
Al tools needed to use finger mils,disc mils,mils for gears,discs for cutting.Also you will find very good a dividing head and an orbital table.Imagine that without a cone you can not even put a drill in the machine head.My old man worked at prototypes in his factory and used all fus range of machines.He said that a new machine had 3 closets full of tools and what you find on net has NOTHING.I was lucky that he put things for"spare"
Also get someone who knows that machines to ceck them.The lathe should be cecked for paralelism and for wear.
But you can contact me when you like.
Look for fus 22 milling machine(all transmision mechanical) and sn 320 lathe(all transmision mechanical)Avoid "fu" milling machines.
If money will not be a problem a fus 25 milling machine will do also helical gears(also if you get all its equipment) and will have more table travel than fus 22.Or fus 35.But that is to big for what we do.I saw a fus m.machine converted to cnc
Or send all work to me and to compensate you do rally dashes

[Pirvu Eugen]

I found at an old machine shop some old machines....Sry...old NEW machines...
Nothing big...just an milling machine and an small lathe.

[pasbogdan]

What are you thinking?

[Pirvu Eugen]

That torque label was on bart bolts also.
About valve springs
Imagine my first engine done about 10 years ago:manual tool my father had for his Dacia did not fit on vw head.So got a long bar put it on a notched tube and 2 friends pushing.And me trying to put lockers in place and praying not to be left without fingers
Now i use milling machine to push.A good tip: put both lockers into place,hold them down with a finger and start pushing spring down.They will slide nice down until locking groove.First i was trying to get spring compressed,block the milling head pushed and with a telescopic small magnet to put lockers in place.It was to hard..
Don't you have a vertical drill machine?Or a hydraulic lifter put under something pushing down to a notched tube

i dont have the Table fit drill or the milling machine ...But this will change till Christmass

[Pirvu Eugen]

Interesting regarding the fact that DJones's UR is pushing 450 WHP with 65 FT LBS with no problems..(God help) to stay like this...

[AndyP]

100 % is 80 FT LBS.
I can make an photo with the paper i received with the bolts.
3 Minutes..i will do this...even i remember i had done this at 1 point..but i cant find the post..sry!

80ft/lbs it is

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/204-4207.pdf

I'm sure they've changed that!

[Pirvu Eugen]

I followed these instructions.

[pasbogdan]

BTW... it was MUCH more easy to tight these at this torque than the oem ones at 30/ 60 NM plus 180 degrees.
At the last 90 degrees..wow i had to use a big bar...
I am not soo powerfull though
Soo i think that this 110 NM is way less than the oem bolts torque.

That torque label was on bart bolts also.
About valve springs
Imagine my first engine done about 10 years ago:manual tool my father had for his Dacia did not fit on vw head.So got a long bar put it on a notched tube and 2 friends pushing.And me trying to put lockers in place and praying not to be left without fingers
Now i use milling machine to push.A good tip: put both lockers into place,hold them down with a finger and start pushing spring down.They will slide nice down until locking groove.First i was trying to get spring compressed,block the milling head pushed and with a telescopic small magnet to put lockers in place.It was to hard..
Don't you have a vertical drill machine?Or a hydraulic lifter put under something pushing down to a notched tube

[Pirvu Eugen]

100 % is 80 FT LBS.
I can make an photo with the paper i received with the bolts.
3 Minutes..i will do this...even i remember i had done this at 1 point..but i cant find the post..sry!

[AndyP]

Woops!!! Hmmm... On my ARP paper was 80 FT lbs recommended torque settings.
Hope i didint done something wrong.
80 ft lbs in 3 equal parts.

Are you sure it wasn't 80Nm?

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33271&highlight=arp+torque

[Pirvu Eugen]

BTW... it was MUCH more easy to tight these at this torque than the oem ones at 30/ 60 NM plus 180 degrees.
At the last 90 degrees..wow i had to use a big bar...
I am not soo powerfull though
Soo i think that this 110 NM is way less than the oem bolts torque.

[Pirvu Eugen]

Woops!!! Hmmm... On my ARP paper was 80 FT lbs recommended torque settings.
Hope i didint done something wrong.
80 ft lbs in 3 equal parts.

[DJones]

I tightened the arp bolts with Sport Quattro washers at 80 ft lbs. 110 NM.
I will retorque them after the first heat cycle.

Wow that's high, I only do mine 55-60 ft lbs.