I will check that tonight. Thanks for the tips. To be sure I will also try my old Bosch spark plugs instead of the Denso's
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It appeared the inlet cam sprocket had slipped with the engine being locked-up because of massive fuel flood and trying to start it. This caused the dizzy hall timing to go off, but I think I managed to get the hall timing working, as I have a spark at cyl 1 now. I tried to put the inlet cam sprocket timing back to where Jyrki set it when he was clocking the cams. Does that mean the hall window is OK now, or should I still try some fine-tuning to get the hall timing 100% right?
The engine does not seem to start yet. The spark plug on cyl #1 gets wet of fuel when cranking, so I think I get fuel from the pump.
The engine turns over normally when starting and I have the impression it tries to fire up, but just does not get going. Sometimes it is about to get started but dies with an incidental ignition feeling/sound.
Questions that rise up for me are:
- What is the easiest way to check if the 034MS HO coil packs are still OK?
- What is the easiest way to check if the injectors are OK? Just switch them over from one cyl to another one?
- Switching spark plugs to other cylinders did not make a difference. Can I visually see if a spark plug has had it's best time? They are approx 2000 KM old.......young I should say. Maybe the fuel flood has decreased it life time?Comment
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Are you using new plugs? soaked plugs normally require a good scrubbing but even then they may not recover.Comment
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No, I am using the same plugs Denso plugs that were in the engine when it got full of petrol. They are quite black. I will check that again tonight. I still have the original Bosch plugs as well, but they are also quite black from the previous setup.Comment
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OK, I put in the old Bosch plugs and the car start again. Pfew, step 1 completed.
Now I am back at the problem where the car idles fine, but at 1600 RPM the revves drop to 700 RPM. THe engine itself is capable of getting back at 1000 RPM idle though.
Any ideas what might cause this behaviour using VEMS?
Or could it be a dizzy/hall window fine-tuning issue?Comment
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i had that similar problem back in greece with the 7A flywheel and the sensor on the flywheel. I remember you telling me that somehow you had a different solution for reading rpm on yours. But my problem occured at the same rpm. Different behaviour, such as mine stayed on 1500 then registered 15000rpm!!! then back 1400-1500 on a continous cycle.Comment
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If the lambda sensor is affected by fuel, could that also play a role in this kind of behaviour?Comment
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does the lamda read anything after 20sec?Comment
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hmm, i dont really know, but if you try some other lamda, you will notice if there is a difference. Otherwise my bet would be the hall.Comment
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Bram, I hope you get this sorted soon as I need to pick your brains
Selfish I know!
You said you had fuel in the IC? did this get to the MAF? I wander if the MAF is not working now and that is your issue.
From reading your thread, I think VEMS works in the same way as the motronic for spark, it uses the hall sensor on the cam to start on Cyl 1. So if this is the case I doubt your timing being out on your cam would have this effect. Yes it may cause loss in performance, but I don't think it will give you this issue because it only uses the sensor to find TDC and thus start the engine on cyl one, after that it uses just the two sensors on the flywheel for spark (unless on WOT above 4K rpm in motronic where the hall is used again).
Just a couple of thoughts.Comment
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