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one thing you may find is after changing the VE table it dont start as well as it used to do. if this is the case you may need to tweak the cranking pw.
well im on 1.1.23 so its primitave compared with the later firmwares.
i have not changed mine for over 12 months. its between 2 and maybe 6 or 7 cranks. in the depths of winter its longer than in most. i only have 2 boxes to enter the info though cold and hot and it scales between.
you need to be within 0.4ms or so of the to be on the mark for starting. the settings will. varie on req_fuel also. i run mine on a high req_fuel. maybe higher thanb it shoul,d be due to bad math. the ve compensates. when i put the pump in ill remap with new req_fuel, tables and other settings.
Mine is at 12.7ms with 6reg_fuel now and on the first crank it takes 4-5 turns to start then dips a bit and stays there.It was much better on warm weather
im going to try with 12.9 and 45 afterstart enrichment(now 40%) and see how it goes.
Martyn, what firmware are you using afterall? 1.1.56?
do you have the idle valve working in the config Vas? it helps a lot usually with start and afterstart.
the dip cokmes from the lack of extra air the ISV would give it. usually you can hold a little throttle to say 1400rpm for 10 secs let off and itll settle. all VW/audi with an isv seem to do this. i still like to try and set the throttle body to the correct idle though.; that means the isv has less to do and this helps these crappy devices alot.
i think i run 4.8 req fuel. its a bit high for the injector size. around 3 would be better and mod the ve to suit. addnig a little prime can help the start in the cold. raise pw 0.3 at a time means you dont miss "the zone" be mindful of the scaling affect though.
to answer your cold pw VAS not sure of current settings.
try looking at the priming. also the option to fire all rather than alternate on crank.
maybe worth using the scaled crank PW by setting your cold and hot to 0.
ideally though i feel its prime thats needed. look at what you have your crank to afterrun rpm too. if its too low it goes afterrun to early in process.
not really had too many issues here. what timing do you crank at too. try around 12
do you have the idle valve working in the config Vas? it helps a lot usually with start and afterstart.
the dip cokmes from the lack of extra air the ISV would give it. usually you can hold a little throttle to say 1400rpm for 10 secs let off and itll settle. all VW/audi with an isv seem to do this. i still like to try and set the throttle body to the correct idle though.; that means the isv has less to do and this helps these crappy devices alot.
I have the exact same issue with cold starting and VEMS. My ISV is not being controlled with VEMS, but still in the hardware setup. I just need to flick the throttle a bit for a few seconds, but after that it warms up normally. Warm idle start is always good. Marc told me to crack open the TB a bit, when not pressing on the throttle pedal.
It did not help me though. It only worked when when I opened the TB too much, but ofter that the RPM would rise too high when the engine got warmer. Seems the idle ignition timing can not keep the RPM low anymore once the TB is opened too much
i started to run vems with the idle valve. start was same but running was better on idle as expected once i set it. issue was it would stall a on lift off as iff the idle was not fast enough to react. i was used to no control as the corrado isv was iffy and i removed it and blocked the hole with a spark plug. lol. in the end i turned off the vems idle control. now with isv its to aid not fully do it. so on the corrado you unplug bluie temp rev then set idle on screw rev again and plug in. the isv then covers the little bits it needs. tried this on vems too but it didn't work.
we now know a diode is needed at least to get it working well.
so what i did was adjust the thottle body a little on the screw so that it didn't stall. i then adjusted thr damper up tighter so it made a longer final decent to closed (nearly closed) this is how to this day i use it. idle is steady with the correct timing in there. it doesn't stall on lift off/clutch from higher vac zones.
on start i use no throttle. i crank between 2 and 6 times and it fires. when really cold you can feel the build up for 2 cranks maybe that to me is lack of prime. once started i hold the throttle a tiny bit to 1400rpm. once the engine is happy to take care of itself bout 5-10 seconds you feel it smooth out and want to rev. 7a cam is lumpy on startup. i lift off and she's happy as piginpoo. im happy with it but will do full isv at some point.
ive made a major leap in aqctually doing somethin gwith nthe car last week so hope to carr ythe momentum to an engine bay clean. lol
cranking the engine goes rather smooth with my setup and it starts right away. It's only stuttering the first few minutes on cold start due to the lack of air with these warm up enrichment settings. That is why I flip, like yourself, the throttle a little bit (till 1400 RPM) for the first 10 seconds after the engine has started in order for a more smooth warm up.
I use no IAC for cold start. The secret is that you are not giving the required amount of fuel to start.
as a rough figure, the amount of ms when the key is on ON (before cranking) should be roughly double the amount of reg_fuel that you generally use.
so if your reg_fuel is 6.0 then in order to have a good start, on cold engine, the ms should be 12ms(on the given CLT temperature).
My engine takes 2-3 turns to start, pretty much the same as motronic did. The only thing i DONT have yet to be 100% same as motronic, is that as it fires, my idle stays in 800-900rpm for the first few secs and then climbs to 1000rpm and stays there no matter what.
so take home message.... give it some more fuel! dont be afraid!
because afaik he had some issue's with another forum member a while ago hence he's not posted on here for a while, shame as he was a good member and really good to chat to in person
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