Engine out and strip down
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Thanks Paul / Jamo.
Just looked at the link, £141. A bit pricey even compared to the dealer. If I get somewhere near what I want, I will be running under 400bhp and matching torque for std rods. I think the extra may be a bit of overkill for that.
But, I'm also thinking that £70 to the dealer is a chunk towards new rods which come with the bolts. Trouble is, it's becoming a bottomless pit.
With regards to the torque, I have seen postings on here saying 65nm for conrod bolts. Bit dangerous, especially as if it hadn't snapped the engine may have gone back in like that. As you say Paul, lucky escape.
Thanks
AlistairComment
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Getting back from the rod bolt issues. Rebuilt the head last night. Couple of things for others to bear in mind if doing theirs.
Make sure you put the washers underneath the springs back on before you put the stem seals on. Fortunately I realised after one but you could end up putting 20 seals on and having to take them all off again.
Cam caps, they only go on one way. I think this is generally known, but, caps 6 and 9 could be confused. I had taken decent photo's so it wasn't difficult to work out. If you're not sure, check them before you put the cams in. You'll be able to tell.
Going to start putting the ancillary bits back on the block this week, pipes, connectors, sensors. Just need to decide what to do about rods and bolts. Anyone got a cheap set of h-beams.
AlistairComment
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Quick update and quick question. Got new rods from Aron so they are now in and the bottom end is rebuilt. Inlet side is mostly rebuilt with new RS2 injectors.
Following Aelreds advice, I'm hoping to get the camshaft woodruff key replaced with a round plug. So I'm waiting for that to finish the head. While I'm waiting, going to get the exhaust side on.
The advice concerns the head bolts. Tightened them in sequence to the first two torque settings. Second stage was 60nm. Then started the 180degree tightening. First one got to about 30degrees before the T55 bit snapped. It was a Halfords professional one. Has anyone had that problem before?
Thanks
AlistairComment
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A T55 is a big bit to snap! The only time I've snapped a bit is by using a torx bit on a hex bolt.1994 Audi S2 Avant - in pieces
2006 Skoda Octavia vRS 2.0TFSi - goes fast
1985 Audi 90 quattro - is wet
Don't forget the East Midlands Meet -Last Tuesday of every month at 7:30pm just off M1 J28!![/COLOR]Comment
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The halfords ones are a reduced diameter shank. I'm wondering if that makes them too weak. Also, it was a 3/8" drive, only type they had.
I'm going to start the exhaust manifold etc rebuild while I try to source a 1/2" drive torx bit.
Looking at the Victor Reinz set, are there two parts to the exhaust gaskets. There appear to be individual header gaskets and also a single manifold gasket. Can someone please advise how they fit, orientation and which is head side and which manifold side.
Thanks
Alistair
Quick edit
Been looking for info on this. Is it a choice of either the single complete gasket or the individual ones? The orientation question only applies if I'm supposed to use both.Last edited by Alistair E; 15 April 2009, 15:51.Comment
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These are the gaskets in question. Anyone help on this?Attached FilesComment
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Quick update and quick question. Got new rods from Aron so they are now in and the bottom end is rebuilt. Inlet side is mostly rebuilt with new RS2 injectors.
Following Aelreds advice, I'm hoping to get the camshaft woodruff key replaced with a round plug. So I'm waiting for that to finish the head. While I'm waiting, going to get the exhaust side on.
The advice concerns the head bolts. Tightened them in sequence to the first two torque settings. Second stage was 60nm. Then started the 180degree tightening. First one got to about 30degrees before the T55 bit snapped. It was a Halfords professional one. Has anyone had that problem before?
Thanks
Alistair
The headbolts are not torx head bolts, the correct tool is a tri-square bit. They may look similar but as the name suggests, the tri-square heads have 90degree points, not rounded edges like to torx heads.
Note, this is not the same as a spline drive head either, it is the 90degree "square" corner that is important.1994 URS4 Avant RS2+Comment
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I must admit, I've not heard of them before. Doing a quick google, they are sized as M8, M10 and M12. I don't suppose someone could tell me which of these is the equivalent of a T55. Any suggestions as to where to buy one.
The headbolts do look like a spline drive but a T55 fitted quite well so I mistakenly thought that would do the job.
Thanks
Alistair
The headbolts are not torx head bolts, the correct tool is a tri-square bit. They may look similar but as the name suggests, the tri-square heads have 90degree points, not rounded edges like to torx heads.
Note, this is not the same as a spline drive head either, it is the 90degree "square" corner that is important.Comment
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Hi again Alistair, the bits are often called "xzn" sockets too, there are a few sets on ebay including most sizes for less than £20.
Nuvo, FYI spline drives will fit, but they are not the same as a square drive, and you run the risk of stripping out the splines and not being able to remove your head bolt.
Good luck.1994 URS4 Avant RS2+Comment
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Yes I know a spline bit fit although they are not the same as triple squares. XZN and triple square are one and the same. That is what I linked to isn't it?Hi again Alistair, the bits are often called "xzn" sockets too, there are a few sets on ebay including most sizes for less than £20.
Nuvo, FYI spline drives will fit, but they are not the same as a square drive, and you run the risk of stripping out the splines and not being able to remove your head bolt.
Good luck.Comment
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