Projekt k24 Alpinweiss part III

[Rusty]

Don't forget the air is still in the RR and on the road its moving. That could make all the difference.

Ignoring the 100mph fan sppeds quoted by RR manufacturers you are correct, mass flow will be lower and thus heat soak wil be more of an issue. More to the point, the car on the RR was hot and the load is higher. I didn't look at the gauge on the RR but can confirm that on the road the V stream was 3 psi higher.

[S2central.net]

Boost builds quicker on V-stream, but I the reason why you see 3psi boost difference between the two is about temp compensation actually - that'll be it...

On the rollers with N-Stream she is running in hotter air so you are much more likely to see max boost of 1.4bar (21psi of old money)... On stock ECU and my N-Stream the boost is reduced in colder air by nature of temperature compensation. So running V-Stream you get 1.4-1.5bar max whatever the weather as the temp comp is tweaked accordingly.

[Ross]

That explains things! How drastic is the boost compensation; 0.2bar seems like quite alot? Is that unique to the ABY as my 3B seemed to fly in cool, damp air? I best concentrate on getting my car running first...

Andy, are you planning on getting the engine rebuilt or will this be a DIY project? Any ideas when you're going to start pulling the car apart? You need to get to 300hp first

[Rusty]

Engine is a project for the autumn I think. Hoping to get Aelred to do it. Will get some rods off Aronmatic and still deciding on a clutch, seems to be £400-£500 for something that will take the pain later in life.

The mods I now have mean that I more tha likely have 299.99bhp, close enough for a scientist but not for the pub . With money a bit tight at the mo (not the money set aside tho ) £50 on a RR session isn't required till it's all sorted. The rebuilt engine will run the 165k k24 so I'll get it tested next year for sure. Should be interesting to see if my efforts, Paul's chips and lots of advice from this forum can see a genuine 300bhp k24 on a stock chip.

[S2central.net]

That explains things! How drastic is the boost compensation; 0.2bar seems like quite alot? Is that unique to the ABY as my 3B seemed to fly in cool, damp air? I best concentrate on getting my car running first...

Andy, are you planning on getting the engine rebuilt or will this be a DIY project? Any ideas when you're going to start pulling the car apart? You need to get to 300hp first

There is quite a spread provided by temp compensation. See the link below where I captured the factory data for the ABY engine... Not how it changes with temp and altitude. Whereas on RS2 for example - its flat for all temp ranges.

[S2central.net]

http://www.s2central.net/motronic_boost.html

[Ross]

Wow that's quite surprising!! So with a normal homefry, does it scale down by an equivalent %age or absolute figure to compensate for intake temps - eg. add 0.3bar boost to each figure to get homefry values. Or is it more complex

I put some 'typical' standard values into the motorgeek flow calculator, and tried varying values of intake temp vs. max boost to match your table; across the range they are within 1% power output at 3,000rpm - except 30+ where it showed a 3% increase in power, guessing this would be compensated for the K24 starting to push it's efficiency range.

Interestingly, calculations suggested that 30C boost levels on a day of 10C would give approx 6% more power at 3,000rpm (not factoring in the reduced compressor efficiency). I wonder how much of that would apply at 5,000rpm!

[Rusty]

just added up my reciepts and a few guess / things from memory that were bought on ebay / here... £10.5k in 5 years not including insurance. That's for a basically stock car

[Rusty]

Right, had a busy afternoon supervising this one, had the folowing fitted to the front:

• HnR Springs (blue ones)
• Promount top mounts
• New Zimmermann Discs (314mm)
• New DS2500 pads for the 996 monos
• New strut to hub hardware (110Nm + 90deg)
• New bump stops
• Better condition bellows
• Taken the Konis to 0.5 turns from fully hard (was either 1.0 or 1.5 can't remember).

Job took 4 hours due to me not doing that much and a few hiccups

• Pad retianing pin wouldn't budge so we hit it harder
• Damaged the thread on a track rod end had to be repaired, which took time.
• Investigation into Promount/Koni top nut issue on strut (linky to individual thread).

The rideheight with the current weight removed was 65cm front, 66.5cm rear (normally 65 Fr & Rr).
Afterwards the front meansure approximately 63cm, indicating a drop of 2cm, this will be checked after some settling time.

Here's a before pic, during pic, after pic, a pic of the down pipe and the stur top nut issue

[Error404]

Nice, glad you got the spring PC'd before they went on. Whats the verdict or not driven yet due to top-mount related issues?

Aren't you going to introduce your lovely assistant?

[Rusty]

Assistant is best mate Mr. S J Batt esq. of Brissol, currently a Clio 182 owner but a closet Ford fanatic with a Capri and 3dr. Cossie under his belt.

PC was the only way, the spring were good so it means that they're bulletproof now.

Brakes are too new to thrash it and I want to resolve the top mount issues. I think I've identified a fix so need to get it implemented when phase 2 is in flow, rear strut rebuild with HnRs and 034 top mounts, braided hoses front and rear and super DOT4 fluid flush

[Error404]

Coolio

Interested to hear how you get on with the H&Rs, I've got some Konis coming and proper coupe H&Rs waiting in the wings, need to get the springs PC'd and refurb some strut housings - will be a pretty similar suspension set-up to yours albeit a no pro-mounts and slighly smaller rear ARB at 22mm

[Rusty]

I added some rebound damping to the Konis, fully tight they were almost impossible to retract the plunger I backed it off 0.5 turns and they're now stiffer than before but not solid. Wait and see.

[quattrostyle]

wow, that downpipe is pretty close to the subframe and driveshaft.

[Rusty]

Yup, very little space on these, hence why it takes a bit of fitting to get them sitting right