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1 - I wrongly assumed it would have been easy to buzz off the crank bolt with the locking tool while engine on the stand, but it wasn't possible so I had to resort to desperate measures - safe in knowledge that bolt & washer would be replaced anyway. The clue is on the floor... LOL. Interestingly - I got about half way thru the cutting operation and went to spanner the engine round to a new position to finish the cut and to my amazement the bolt was now loose. Not proud of that one, but I could have phaffed about for another 2hrs trying to brace the engine better then borrowing a bigger socket set and schwing bar. This was quicker and more fun.
2 - the crank keyway is in good nick and actually the front oil seal is fine
3 - admire the clean shiny sump tray... well one of two parts... Took best part of two nights graft with chemicals, stiff brushes and lots of patience to remove the shyte that was in there. The dirty one in the same pic gives some indication of 'before' condition. I know this is bordering on OCD, but you can't build a dirty engine - its just not cricket !
1 - pistons, rods & shells out along with oil pump and rear flange
2 - crank & bearings out... Noted location and orientation of thrust washers
3 - not a great photo of the stripped block... there was many hours spent getting it that clean including use of a power washer to purge all the water & oil passages, plus I made good use of pipe cleaners I got from Frosts a while back - perfect for this.
These ones are a bit of sync... taken on other device but they show a really nice satin black finish on the block and the condition of the (presumably) stainless core plugs is amazing after a clean up.
1 - on the stand after cleanup... hope I can find an engine paint with that satin finish as it looks great
2 - theres the upper sump tray full of glar and orrible congealed old oil
3 - and a first look at the business end of the V6 donkey
Last few for the time being as this takes us up to date with potted highlights...
1 - bottom end showing sure signs of old oil ... wasn't sure on condition of bearings at this point
2 - lots of storage required for this job... note to self to spend a night reorg'ing it all properly
3 - better pic of bare block... bores look good - next job is to measure up bores and journals to see what if / any machine operations are needed. Hopefully just a hone on the bores before a degrease and paint.
I agree with your logic on keeping the car and re doing the existing engine rather that replacing the car or the engine.
Looking forward to this thread as I am running a 2.6 V6 Cab as a daily driver in the snow, with a broken heater matrix, wet carpets and a faulty thermostat, also with no garage.
Where's the icon for 'freezing cold"? - lol.
Having said that there's always someone worse off than yourself, and that applies to me also.
I'd say always put the photos in the actual thread as it is a pain having to wait for a third party album / host to open up and then tediously open and shut each one to be able to view them?
Vagcom tells nicely about V6 2.8 Liter ECU :
1992 B4 80 V6 2.8 ECU identifier
8A0 906 266A PMC1010 and the end V6 MPI 2VDOC
Well actually the engine is quite interesting even though it lacks the high end power. It is like a reliable winter quattro "tool" that can be driven with what ever gear on and it has torque even with stock eprom. Well also this needs to be chip tuned just to check what can be done further....
I recommend (price reason) this for early series ECU tuning
"If you have ecu with number 8A0906266A, you'll have to mention that when making payment" VAGCOM identifies that code. The promises: AUDI 80 B4 100 C4 A4 A6 A8 2.8 V6 AAH chip 193HP 281N and the best of it is the reduced fuel consumption on low loads when more ignition advance is applied. And maybe 200cel metal cats that are quite cheap these days...
The old AAH is fairly good from NM perspective and as chipped it will be even better with small tuning money. Of course the 30v can be chipped also.
Well then some more. Could you please make some good pictures of the EGR system and how that is located. EGR completely spoils the burning process and makes all areas dirty on the way. Well it reduces the NOx emissions, but increases fuel consumption. EGR system is one of the key reasons why the oil (in older worn engine9 gets so dirty inside when the very small amount of burning residues by flow (piston rings failing to do the work) to the bottom.
The ecu diagnostics is completely happy even with lots of MOT test problems ! => egr is not needed to spoil the burning and make the engine so dirty. The air filter box has the pre heater system for intake air. If that is sticking the hot intake air is poison for power & advanced ignition...
Having bought the car for ~800 quid then spent best part of 400 to get it thru MOT I had to dig deep in my thinking as to whether to keep it... Doing a proper engine refresh is going to cost more money than another 'clunker' runaround - assuming I could find something suitable and reliable.
Could you Paul add the referenced MOT problems and how those were treated before the disassembly and what emission results were possible ?
Well do I have to confess, that I also bought a AAH engined Quattro Sedan with the nice handling & winter driving capabilities ...
My MOT woes were in the rear suspension department and it really needed new discs and pads all round. Emissions wise it was fine - UK spec is quite easy for early 1992 car. We didn't get the EGR crap here fortunately but someone made a hash of the variable IM controls so I have to repair that also.
Pretty sure I have the 266A ECU on mine... It has never talked to VAGCOM yet (or factory VAG1551 either) - pretty sure there is a wiring bug in there to be discovered. I was going to play with the ignition maps on it to see what extra oomf can be extracted from this lazy big lump. I have already socketed the ECU so I found some maps already... that ebay one might save me some brain cycles though
Engine build continues slowly... Tis more of a task of filth management than anything else. Measured the bores and crank journals. All good with just new shells required and a hone on the bores - no oversizing required... Impressive for 120k miles but normal enough for audi I suppose.
The filth on the Cam covers is going to take
more time to deal with than I can be arsed with... Unless I can find somewhere with hot acid tank or similar. Will be cheaper buying fresh plus the breather mesh is integral part of cover.
Photos to follow. Slow but steady wins the race :-)
I nearly purchased one of these with a blown head gasket this evening, had to stop myself from bidding but I'd set a limit and stuck to it. Went for £335 which was my top bid.
You could try leaving the cam covers in farmer fuel for a few days, should soften the crud up a fair bit. Then when you know the missus isn't about whack them in the dish washer.
1990 B3 2.0 80 quattro.
1992 C4 2.8 Avant quattro
1994 MTM RS2.
1998 B5 TDI quattro Sport.
2000 B5 TQS.
It snowed in GA over the weekend. The high here has not gotten above freezing in eight days. As you know, that ain't typical. Looking forward to seeing you again in warmer weather.
Someone else suggested soaking them in diesel - its mad how that can degunk just about anything, but I fear that I would be forced to drink a gallon of it if engine parts were ever discovered in the dishwasher.... Yeah I know the trick is not to get caught but its not worth the risk. LOL...
1 - two truly horribly filthy cam covers... if a submerge in a gallon of diesel doesn't loosen this glar off then they'll have to be renewed. I can't bring myself to use them any other way.
2 - one cylinder bank before any therapy... couldn't see any trace of engine number on the block until I started out with a whizzy sander and 120 grit paper to shift the blackened stuff.
Here's the other bank after a quick clean up... some discoloring remains but its nice and smooth now. Also seeing the engine number for the first time since about 1992 !
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and how those were treated before the disassembly and what emission results were possible ? 
I'm with you on that. 
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