My 95 S2 Avant Project. LZ5T Coolness

[irishs2]

Ok, think I will get the 567, as the Dirko I have is listed as not suitable for thread sealing.

Got a little bit done last night.

Got my sump, oil pickup and oil pump installed.





Put new exhaust studs into the head, I was very nervous doing this. As the new studs had didn't have the same tapered start to the stud, they were quite difficult to get them in without crossthreading. Thankfully all went well.






Then brought the crank up to the timing mark. Same with the head.



Havnt torqued the head down yet.
But just wanted to see what the overall engine would look like

[Pat D]

Looks like the 567 has the better temperature resistance (204°C (400°F)) (565 is only 150°C).

http://au.iloctite.com/en/loctite-54...ead-sealing/34

Yea I noticed that, but I don't think temps would ever get to 100c or over on the intake side. But might as well go the 567 if the price isn't way more than the other.

[UrS4boy]

Loctite 565 or 567 thread sealant would do the job nicely http://au.iloctite.com/en/loctite-54...thread-sealing

Looks like the 567 has the better temperature resistance (204°C (400°F)) (565 is only 150°C).

http://au.iloctite.com/en/loctite-545-554-5451-565-561-567-5770-thread-sealing/34

[Pat D]

Loctite 565 or 567 thread sealant would do the job nicely http://au.iloctite.com/en/loctite-54...thread-sealing

[stocious]

i see ptfe tape used on compressor fittings ect.. and they do get hot. but i cant vouch for your need, it can be got in a paste with an aplicaition brush aswell

http://www.laco.com/prod/118/slic-tite-paste-with-ptfe-premium-thread-sealant.aspx

rated to 204 bar, not sure about its use with plastics tho

[irishs2]

I was thinking of using dirko , but maybe there is something more suitable

[UrS4boy]

...Don't forget to put a dab of sealant on the threads of the new injector inserts when you screw them in.

What is the appropriate sealant to use?

[newsh]

Looking very good indeed, I always wish I'd painted my enging bay too

Don't forget to put a dab of sealant on the threads of the new injector inserts when you screw them in.

[Error404]

Looking good mate

[Christophski]

You are a very thorough man in the cleaning of this car. I wish I had the skills, knowledge, patience and tools you had haha

[irishs2]

Thanks guys.

I slightly hurt myself last week doing the waterpump on a my 2.5 T5 transporter, so I limited myself to small jobs until I recover.

But here is a little catch up.

Got the inserts out of my inlet manifold, was a bit of trouble, as they were very brittle. I had to use a hot screwdriver to scrap a line in the plastic and that worked for some of them, the others had to be chipped out. A dremel and small wire wheel was used to clean the threads afterwards.






Paint started on some of the major engine components.


Just a teaser pic


I also found out that the plug bracket in the engine bay wont fit with the vacuum servo. So that had to be modified.


Before


After. The bracket was cut along the back and moved over about 1".

Wasn't happy that these surfaces on the engine block had paint, so the sealing surfaces were wet blocked until they were shiny and flat. The same was done on the waterpump mating surface.


Before, notice the surface isnt completely flat.


FLAT!

Just waiting for a 3/8" torque wrench to arrive and assembly can begin on the engine.

[LHD_Kid]

Really liking this thread.

Nice work



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[Tom_]

perfect work mate, really like to see your progress...

[andy10v]

You are a man on a mission!

I like the DIY straightener.

[saltinot]

Looks straight as an arrow to me. A job well done and on a budget too. I love it.

I have this looming over me and will be doing it "soon". I have been looking at line straighteners also and could not believe how much they cost. I've already dropped a pretty penny on the correct flare tool and now I've got to spend more for the straightener. I might make one also. Don't get me wrong, I'm a tool collector, but 200USD for a tubing straightener is a bit mad.