My 95 S2 Avant Project. LZ5T Coolness

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  • irishs2
    replied
    Yep, replacing it with a brand new unit. €52euro from Audi.

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  • Avantus
    replied
    Impressive job
    Very nice work. Keep it up!



    More rust damage.
    You did replace that tanklid? Those cracks will leak fuel when filling it up completely.

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  • irishs2
    replied
    More Underseal treatment.


    Rear

    Front

    All this was covered in Dinitrol 4941 (photos later), thanks to Error404 for the advice.


    Refirb the rear ties

    Nasty




    After Electrolysis + POR15 clean and regrease




    Both done.

    Petrol Tank:



    The writing on the tank says: "Ersatz Tank" ... Replacement Tank. Did my avant history just get more interesting.


    The little standoffs under the tank had rusted/failed so I ground them out with a dremel.




    Shiny, hex head bold glued in.


    More rust damage.




    Should those be connected together?




    Tank shield as per usual is rotten and NLA



    RS4/S4 Tank shield seemed to be a good match.... but no, the mount for the shield is in a different place, and the shape of the shield is completely different.
    Superhero time, "COMBINE THE SHIELDS"


    I picked a point where I knew I had good material on the old shield.


    No going back now.


    Offered it up in two pieces to the tank, marked it and then tack welded it. There also seems to be a rust shadow of the old shield left on the tank. More welding and cutting.



    Cut a bit from the top of left overs to make this curved piece.


    Finished welding. A little of grinding and painting is all thats needed.

    Rebuild the front suspension legs.













    The sun was out yesterday, it was very unusual occurrence. I am sure people were running scared at the unidentified object in the sky.

    Rear wishbones end next.






    Cutting my teeth on brake pipe laying. Very frustrating work to get pipes to bend the right way. Old pipes were crusty green, they had to go.
    Last edited by irishs2; 7 July 2017, 14:18.

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  • PRY4SNO
    replied
    Love the project, keep up the great updates and photos.

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  • macspring
    replied
    Nicely recorded for the rest of us.

    Well done.

    Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh later in the "summer".



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  • newsh
    replied
    Awesome work Eric! She's going to be gorgeous

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  • irishs2
    replied
    Close it's a 70

    Cheers, of course all the f@&€ ups are not caught on camera.

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  • stocious
    replied
    Is that a Honda 50 I see!
    That's some great work you've done there! As always it seems

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  • irishs2
    replied
    Work away with the pics, I dont mind at all.

    I'll do my best to write what I did.






    I cleaned around the outside of the seal with a scraper, hopefully to make it easier for the seal to come out. I also measured the depth of the seal.

    I used a sliding hammer to remove the seal






    Some situations you can just lever it out, I am glad I didnt as it required a good deal of force than I thought. Messed up the seal, but no damage to the housing.




    I used 800 wet/dry paper wet, to clean the surface all around.





    After the dif was cleaned and put back in, I went about fitting the seal. Sitting it on the housing as square as I could possibly tell. I really didnt want to mess up this seal.

    I used a wood drift to gently tap the seal moving the drift 90deg to make sure the seal was going in square. I kept tapping in the seal until it was flush with the housing.


    I didnt take a pic of this process, but you get the idea from the pic above.




    I then used this aluminium bearing and seal drift to tap the seal down into the housing, constantly moving the drift to keep the seal moving evenly.
    I measured along the way, making sure the seal was going in square. I left the seal sit at just less 0.5mm deeper than the old one. The old seal sat at around 6.54mm deep, the new seal sat at 7mm deep. It can do deeper, but I wanted to
    keep as close as possible to where it came out.

    Thats pretty much what I did, not sure if its correct or if there is an easier way but hopefully it works out. Hope that helps.
    Last edited by irishs2; 7 July 2017, 14:16.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Eric: Great work. Great photos (expect them to be stolen by me and used in few posts, credit to you).

    Question: Any details on the replacement big seal for the left side of the rear diff?

    This one:

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  • audinut
    replied
    your catching me up ! put all mine back together properly this weekend !

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  • irishs2
    replied
    More underseal work this last weekend, as well as a little bit of assembly.
    Timewise, I was not able to get time to do the two coats of POR15, and underseal done in one day, so I instead, decided to go with two coats of por15 on one day, then a few days later a use POR15 tie coat and then underseal with 3M 08800.
    I got a chance to clean the diff and do the seals, both the refil and drain plugs are siezed solid so I will have to fill the oil from the difflock side with the flange out.
    Both flanges are grove free, but I did measure the seal depth and changed it slightly upon refitting.

    I was also able to fit the lower bush on the rear hub carrier. I got lucky and found a suitable spacer which I cut in half and used it as a driver for the two halves of the bush.
    Just waiting on a few bits to finish off the petrol tank/ fuel filter and bits can start going back on the car. Woot!!




































































    Last edited by irishs2; 7 July 2017, 14:15.

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  • andy10v
    replied
    Thanks for all the info guys

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  • irishs2
    replied
    I feel quite silly now! Thanks for pointing that out.

    I pushed out the hubs with the press, as well as the rears. But I got the front bearings out with the kit.

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  • twoqu
    replied
    Originally posted by irishs2
    This was the one, although I have no idea what the 4 smaller bolts are for.



    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290842533261

    The smaller bolts are Force screws to remove the hub! Assuming they were of the correct size and pitch. You screw them into the wheel bolt holes as diagonally as possible until they bottom out on something or place a packer behind them and wind the hub out by alternately tightening the screws. You could do the same with wheel bolts and packers at a push!
    Presumably you were able to extract those bearing with that kit?
    Last edited by twoqu; 19 March 2013, 16:01.

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