Let the spending begin.....

[Starscream]

i think its 80.98

Is that their standard size? what would this make the displacement be? not much bigger than standard i guess

[twenty valve]

standard bore and stroke I believe is 81 x 86.4 with a CR of 9.3

you can't buy over sized audi pistons. The standard pistons are of very high quality so re-use them with new rings if you can or fork out £600+ plus for a set of aftermarket ones which probably aren't even as good (don't forget the £200+ for a re-bore!!)

[newsh]

Nows the time to fit a new clutch slave cyl and get the rack reconned

[nip]

standard bore and stroke I believe is 81 x 86.4 with a CR of 9.3

you can't buy over sized audi pistons. The standard pistons are of very high quality so re-use them with new rings if you can or fork out £600+ plus for a set of aftermarket ones which probably aren't even as good (don't forget the £200+ for a re-bore!!)

These are on a standard aby, i recon these are standard size

[20comer]

Nows the time to fit a new clutch slave cyl and get the rack reconned

why are these modifications done/required?

[nip]

[QUOTE=20comer;549273]why are these modifications done/required?
Because they are much more simpler to do while the engine is out

[macspring]

Nows the time to fit a new clutch slave cyl and get the rack reconned

It is not possible to adjust the wear out of a steering rack ? What are the symptoms of a worn rack, and what's involved in getting it reconditioned, DIY or a specialist?

Hopefully not considered a thread hijack, but a relevant deviation.

Thanks.

[macspring]

Starscream

If it is definitly to be a keeper, do the various non related changes when the engine is out, so much easier, if a fair bit dearer thatn you anticapated.

In order to be able to swallow the cost, push out your back on the road deadline, ( or take out a small loan. ).

Ask people to contribute to a list of items that should be done when the engine is out, under two headings - essential and upgrade.

1. New Clutch (not sure if an RS2 clutch is better/different than an S2 one, assuming it fits? ).

2. Short Metal water pipe that comes out of a frost plug underneath the turbo, it can leak and is very much easier to replace with the engine out.

3. Consider a RS2 Wagner RS2 Evo cast exhaust manifold and upgraded downpipe or a s/h RS2 downpipe?

4. Fit new copper crush washers to the big oil pressure switch with two electrical connections and the smaller one towards the front of the engine. Refit using the correct torque setting with the fresh washers, they are hard to get to when the engine is complete.

5. Cambelt and toothed wheel and bolt at the bottom front of the engine, together with the water pump and the belts tensioner.

6. Clean out the sump and the metal pick up inside.

7. New coil pack boots and new spark plugs tightened enough, you will feel the crush washer compress and continue to tighten and then it feel properly tight, do it carefully as you don't want to strip the threads, but you still want it properly tight. Check it after a say 50 miles. Not avery technical description, but hopefully you get the idea. Not essential to do because the engines out, but so that it is fault free when it is back place.

8. Fit the small metal water pipe upgrade from Rusty at the rear of the engine, easier when out and when you disturb the factory now brittle plastic one it will break and delay you.

9. Consider fitting new rings and shells / bearings as the engine is apart and you only want to take it in and out once.

10. Make sure your starter is in good condition and would not benefit from a refurbishment. Access when in the car is awkward.

You can see how it is dear, but when you're able to drive it whenever you want and it works as it should you will be pleased and the pain of the expense should recede, rgw financial scars will eventually heal.

Hope the above is of some help, others should point other other items that have been missed out on.

Kind regards.

[Error404]

It is not possible to adjust the wear out of a steering rack ? What are the symptoms of a worn rack, and what's involved in getting it reconditioned, DIY or a specialist?

Hopefully not considered a thread hijack, but a relevant deviation.

Thanks.

The pre-load can be used to overcome slight wear in the rack and pinion as basically the pre-load adjustment pushes the two more tightly together - only effective to a point. In most cases the rack and pinion wear very little if the right fluid has been used so rebuilding the rack with new seals gives a it new lease of life.

[macspring]

404

What does the rack feel like with worn seals, and is the replacement of the seals a DIY job, and if so where does one get them, how much, approx. ?

Thanks for taking the time.

btw, what does error404 relate to ?

Kind regards.

[Error404]

Can't really say as i've never had a rack reconditioned, ask AndyP he had a recon unit recently IIRC

and the other nothing really, its just a pseudonym I adopted many moons ago for producing music and deep cover black ops

[quattro87]

It doesn't really have to do with how new seals feel, but rather when they are going to start leaking. There is nothing worse than a new engine and bay with hydraulic oil all over everything. Its just one of those "while you are in there" type of things that is easier to deal with when the engine is removed. There is also something to be said for "if it isn't broke, don't fix it".

[macspring]

Thanks Error.

So if it not leaking and there is no play in it, best to leave it.

I agree that access is a doodle with the engine out.

Kind regards.

[willg54]

mines rather leaky...but the engine is coming out so all will be fine!

how much is a seal kit and wheres best to source it from?

cheers!

[Error404]

It might not leak externally but there are plenty internal seals too, the ones that get fu**ed when someone puts the wring fluid in for example

Febi do a kit, so does ZF and others too, inc the dealer. These is / was a dodgy batch of seals about at one time, not sure if thats still an issue