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It's no wonder the gear change was horrible - the gear stick had loads of play and would lift up about an inch. Now it feels much better with a decent used replacement fitted
Once I have an engine and a clutch it can be properly tested and adjusted if neccesary!
The gear knob and gaitor are a single item on the RS2. You need to remove the gaitor from the centre console then unscrew the knob from the gear lever.
Screw driver to get under the gaiter lip and remove it once it's pulled up, unscrew and the whole gaiter/knob comes off as one. You'll have to then get under the car to unscrew the ball joint plate if you want to change the whole thing. As soon as I can start posting attachments again, I'll post the pic of mine.
2-3 tho wear on the lip, shame as the rest of the bore was good. It could have been honed out and the rings would have taken the slack, but I decided I can't settle for less than perfection. VRS had a decent block with 1-1.5 tho wear that I was going to use as a donor, which would have been fine, but in the end I went for the rebore and a set of Wossner's as I couldn't handle anything less than perfection. I got a pretty good deal on it that took the sting out of the cost slight too. This engine build is to last another 200k
As soon as I can post attachments again there will be some more pics
Take off the almost squared trim in front of the handbrake button.
Then put your finger inside the hole behind the trim.
You should easily feel a receptacle of a phillips screw use a mirror if you have doubts
Undo the screw and then the gaitor will lift from the screw side and you can slide it out it, has also two sliding plastic retainers in front of it.
Pull up the gaitor like a sleeve and undo the knob.
Take off the almost squared trim in front of the handbrake button.
Then put your finger inside the hole behind the trim.
You should easily feel a receptacle of a phillips screw use a mirror if you have doubts
Undo the screw and then the gaitor will lift from the screw side and you can slide it out it, has also two sliding plastic retainers in front of it.
Pull up the gaitor like a sleeve and undo the knob.
Stefano
Pete must have done that bit, he works so damned fast I thought he just popped it out.
The gaitor hasn't gone back on yet, doing that tomorrow, I can take a few pics of the parts when it goes back together and update the thread.
@ Bowlerwell - I'll get a pic of the newly installed shifter. I'm afraid I don't know enough about the anatomy of the linkage either! The 3 pieces in the picture should be one piece
After burning the midnight oil at JP's workshop, this is what I left with:
SPM conrods and Wossner pistons
JP Stage #2 head
RS2 in / 7A ex cams
Today was a late afternoon start, but with Pete's help the Wagner EM (see pic), dual mass flywheel and Southbend clutch were attached to the engine. After a failed attempt to lift it in place on a jack, complete with crushed toes and a scratch on the newly finished cam cover I picked up a hoist and we got the engine in.
I'll get a few progress pics up later but the engine is in. We ran into a few issues:
Coldside clearance is less with the Wagner - I had to clock the coldside slightly to stop it interfering.
Turbo water return hose does not fit - not sure why, it may have bent a little and trying to make it fit resulted in a crack in the rear cam cover
All in all it was a productive day, engine in and bolted up with the manifolds and turbo + WG... I cleaned more parts than I installed I plan on having it for the dyno day but whether it's run in and ready to run we'll have to see how progress goes during this week... watch this space!
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