Tonks's Berg Cup Car

[driftin jo]

That looks fantastic

[Le S2 Audi]

Superb - You don't hang around with stuff...

What a difference from that wreck I saw on the ramp - Never thought it would look as good as this...

[montez]

That has come out so much nicer than I imagined

[Starscream]

Looks really good!

Is it going to be used on a track? A van and trailer would look good, and maybe a matching jacket

[Tonks4x4]

Thanks again guys... Yes I am hoping to use it on the track but not with it's current power plant, don't get me wrong it's nippy as it's a real light car but it will be awesome with the V8 in. I need a typ85 CQ gearbox for my next step along with a scrap shell so I can get all the mock up done before fitting into this.

I have an LT50 Luton van and was debating if I should get it back on the road with a ramp into the back as a team van

In fact I went to go and look at it this evening and snapped a pic of it in the background...

[Tonks4x4]

Spacers are on thanks to Bambridge :tup sits much better now but will need to cut out some more steel from under the rear wheel arches for more clearance....

Took Rod (Couperman) out for a spin in it today

[Tonks4x4]

With the new spacers on and only one lot of steel trimmed inside the arch, the tyres catch quite badly.

So out with the plasma cutter to do some trimming


Once it was all welded back together a liberal coating of black stone guard



Which then left me with the issue of height at the rear....

Coil overs would be the ideal route but for a cheap option for the time being I have cut down a set of S2 springs, I have removed 2 1/2 coils from the springs and have fixed them in position using some heavy duty jubilee clips, overall it has lowered the rear by 4". I now have a clearance of 1" between tyre and the steel arch,

I went out for a spin this evening with SteveT63 for a test run. I was pleasantly surprised that a. It is a very comfy ride. b. It corners like it's on rails and turns in like a go cart. c. There is no rubbing or catching on anything I managed to throw at it tonight.....

Here is a few pics....

[S2 EDS]

Pics look really good - what's the significance of the No. 44? Are you the "Doctor" like Rossi? It's going to be even more of a beast when you install the lump!!! Bad bad bad! Congratulations

[Tonks4x4]

The 44 was all I could think of which relates to me as in "Tonks4x4" > "4x4" > "44"

When SteveT63 has done his he is going for "63" for the same reason.

[Tonks4x4]

Right then guys here is the bit you have all been waiting for.... :ihih:

I started by blowing off all the dust it has collected over the months



I have used tonight as a learning curve as I have never played with one of these engines before.

I wanted to start by removing the wiring and ECU's however once I made a start it becomes apparent you need to remove everything to get at anything



I started on the left bank and removed the external cooling pipes, dip stick and manifold, the manifold being a fantastic fixing design and is removable by only removing the top row of nuts.

Next was off with the engine mounting rubber which has some electronic device attached not too sure what it does but resembles some kind of knock/vibration sensor.

Then off with the air con pipes to give me access to remove the water pump which has been damaged in the accident.

That then gave me access to remove the air con pump which is shaft driven from the rear of the engine where the timing chain is.



And then finally off with power steering pump.



None of this stuff will be going back on except the water pump, which leaves this side of the block quite bare.

This then gave me enough access to remove the rest of the engine loom.

Next was the drivers side, again very easy to remove the manifold, but first need to remove the fan belt tensioner before I can get the alternator off.



A really strange thing I have never seen before is that these engines run a water-cooled alternator, I guess they would be a fortune to replace



So that is pretty much as far as I got tonight with interruptions.

You can see just how much tat has been removed



Leaving the dimensions of the actual unit very compact for the power output




I could do with finding out now if there is a need to blank off the power steering and air con outputs on the rear of the engine. I guess they will leak oil otherwise.

Any input from anyone who has had this experience is welcomed :tup:

[quattrostyle]

Next was off with the engine mounting rubber which has some electronic device attached not too sure what it does but resembles some kind of knock/vibration sensor.

I believe the RS6 had engine mounts that prevented the engine to tilt when going WOT, maybe the later RS4 has that feature aswell?

[Tonks4x4]

Yes that's what I figured, have been told that at idle they are soft and under load they stiffen thanks for the info, done some more investigation today.

Revo are able to de immobilise the ECU's and allow them to run independent of all the other electrical systems that are not required, including giving it a performance remap at the same time

All good news but expensive, however far less that an aftermarket system that is able to run the VVT correctly.

Other good news is that there is nothing to do as far as blanking off the drive ports for the power steering pump and the air con, you just remove the units. :tup:

I have also sorted the gearbox and shafts now and I have a vehicle to use as the testbed for making all the modified stuff I will need.

And finally the last news is that I have now done some investigations into what TIG welder I should buy, this way I can make all my manifolds, coolant pipes and exhaust parts.

Aiming to get a 200A ac/dc version, will be having a trial demonstration in the next day or so

[RS2000WRC]

Love it! should be a monster with the V8 in it! :O

[Acidburn]

is that the shell from pimp driver mate?

[quattro]

I have this little beast, for the money its a real good pc of kit. http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/weldi..._R-Tech_Tig201