Greg_S S2 Coupe 20+ years going strong
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Bracket looks like the one that bolts to dashboard and holds glovebox. Not sure about other 2 pieces, haven't seen them on any B3/B4 car I had my hands on. Any part numbers on them? -
Can anyone tell me the size spanner I need for adjusting the tie rods as 19mm is too small for the outer nuts?
Also any tips on the pictures I listed as to where they fit?Leave a comment:
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Well I've made a little more progress this evening. I have decreased the areas I need to paint inside the arch and managed to remove the bolt remains from the strut. I need to check what size I need to drill before I retap the thread though.
I also have a bit of help need on identifying where some parts go. I sorted through some of the parts I have accumulated and bits that I have had in boxes for years and need to check where they go on the car.
The metal bracket I think is related to the glove box but not sure where? The plastic u shaped piece I have no idea? And the two plastic covers I'm not sure about either. Any suggestions welcome.
I have also got a couple of pics of the prep so far.Attached Files- 34129403692_9e787076c7_o.jpg (110.0 KB, 71 views)
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Thanks both. I will have a look around at the reviews. I was going to clean the area up with soapy water and then degreaser to try get read of any dirt before I paint it.
I still haven't managed to remove the bolt from the strut so I'll take it off and tidy up and check the settings on the koni shock.
I've seen the SGS Compressors ones a few times. I was looking at this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162200046768 As I thought if I'm going to get one. I should get something we some more capacity.
For Chassis repairs i'd use this.......
I first used this stuff 25 years ago when i was still a young lad,
always wanted to use the best stuff as you do.
It's brilliant and i still have a couple pieces lying around i treated all those years ago and it's still in perfect condition!

Excerpt from their website..........
Scotch® 1617 Zinc spray is an ideal cold galvanizer, that provides permanent protection against rust and corrosion by electrochemically bonding with the metal surface it is sprayed onto. Scotch® 1617 has excellent adhesion to iron and steel, is resistant to weathering, UV radiation, moisture, heat up to 500°C, alkaline solutions and mineral oils. It is an ideal primer for metal constructions, and complies with DIN 50976 (zinc content) and DIN 53167 (corrosion protection).
I've not done any serious body spraying repairs for years,Thanks Audi,
but i would probably go over that with Isopon Zinc 182 at least a couple coats and then top coat colour of your choice.

Hth.
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For Chassis repairs i'd use this.......
I first used this stuff 25 years ago when i was still a young lad,
always wanted to use the best stuff as you do.
It's brilliant and i still have a couple pieces lying around i treated all those years ago and it's still in perfect condition!

Excerpt from their website..........
Scotch® 1617 Zinc spray is an ideal cold galvanizer, that provides permanent protection against rust and corrosion by electrochemically bonding with the metal surface it is sprayed onto. Scotch® 1617 has excellent adhesion to iron and steel, is resistant to weathering, UV radiation, moisture, heat up to 500°C, alkaline solutions and mineral oils. It is an ideal primer for metal constructions, and complies with DIN 50976 (zinc content) and DIN 53167 (corrosion protection).
I've not done any serious body spraying repairs for years,Thanks Audi,
but i would probably go over that with Isopon Zinc 182 at least a couple coats and then top coat colour of your choice.

Hth.
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I have been looking at compressors for ages but haven't been able to justify getting one yet. Good tip though.Leave a comment:
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I always use air tools for removing those bolts now. They're only M6 and almost always shear with hand toolsLeave a comment:
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Thanks, I will take a look at this one. Been a while since I've been able to think carshttp://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...=BRake+bleeder
Just a heads up...would recommend this over the ezibleedLeave a comment:
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Well I've been out and made a bit of progress this evening, but also an annoying boot head snapped off so been trying to get the shank removed from the strut when removing the bracket routing the brake pipes.
On the plus side I have been able to wirebrush most the the inner arch ready to sort out surface rust and removed the arch liner to get better access.
Getting the bolt shank out of the strut has used most of my time this evening and several drill bits so far, I may end up taking the strut off so I can do it on the bench and also repaint the strut, the por15 hasn't done bad and has lasted about 8 years. I'll take a few pictures when I have a chance next. Once it's all tidied up I will have alignment done as I changed the lower ballpoint a while ago and will do the drivers side before the alignment is done.
What is the best way to check the condition of the koni shocks? There is no oil leakage.
I should have a new battery at the weekend too so I can get the brake fluid changed. Ap got back to me on torque settings, mainly for my reference the ap caliper to bracket and bracket to strut are 58nm and the banjo bolt 25nm.Leave a comment:
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I just drop the front tyre pressure to 20 psi and pump up after, good time to check them all -I have a compressor so pretty easily done.
If you use too much pressure it will pop of course, but then so will anything you use outside of design spec
My first one lasted me 10+ years, second one is still going very happily a few years on.Leave a comment:
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Just a heads up...would recommend this over the ezibleedLeave a comment:
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Thanks all, will get myself an ezbleed this week and see how I get on.Leave a comment:
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