ACQ Endurance Racing car project, 405HP, 539NM

[Audi_CQ]

If you have 600 hp @6500 rpm you would have 700 hp @ 7500 or something like that.
So I would go for higher rpm as well.

Søren S2

That's right if you have a large enough turbo What you have to start with is a hp goal and intended use. If 700 is your goal and racing is your game then lots of rpm and short stroke is great, but for everyday use a long stroke less rev engine would be better. HP is great for dragrace, but torque is king on the street
If you have to see 5500 on the rev counter before any real action happens, it could be difficult to beat the V8 in the other lane when the light shifts

Cheers,
Roger

[auditude]

That's right if you have a large enough turbo What you have to start with is a hp goal and intended use. If 700 is your goal and racing is your game then lots of rpm and short stroke is great, but for everyday use a long stroke less rev engine would be better. HP is great for dragrace, but torque is king on the street
If you have to see 5500 on the rev counter before any real action happens, it could be difficult to beat the V8 in the other lane when the light shifts

Cheers,
Roger

Hi,

So if I had the taller block, could I run a higher redline using the standard crank and longer rods, which would slow down piston speeds? Or are the piston speeds the same due to the same crank?

It seems like the a 95.5mm stroked motor would have more bottom end torque than a standard motor, but not necessarily more power, but if I could increase the redline of the standard motor, say with longer rods, then I may be able to get more revs and therefore more power?

Thanks,

Ken

[Audi_CQ]

Hi,

So if I had the taller block, could I run a higher redline using the standard crank and longer rods, which would slow down piston speeds? Or are the piston speeds the same due to the same crank?

It seems like the a 95.5mm stroked motor would have more bottom end torque than a standard motor, but not necessarily more power, but if I could increase the redline of the standard motor, say with longer rods, then I may be able to get more revs and therefore more power?

Thanks,

Ken

Hi Ken,

Max piston speed would be less with longer rods so more rpm should be possible if rest of engine could take it.
Regarding more power you would only have a bit more power at max rpm. At any other rpm the 2.5 would be stronger. You would need a really close ratio 'box to be quicker with a high revving(9000+) 2.2 compared to a good 2.5 with ~7500 max rpm

Cheers,
Roger

[Billman]

Nervas can you please give us more infos about your engine? What have you changed?

Greetings

[caterpillar]

I will use the custom cranck crmo OETTINGER 94,5 AND 158,35 mm h-profil conrods (www.stenparnermotor.se) and 83mm JE custom piston 8,5-1. dieselblock 236 deck.then customported 3b head,with custom 280 cams 11,5 lift.hydraulick lifters. multilayergasged,arp studs (bmw ones) :mischeif: have max rev at 8000... but i may have drysump and increase more rpm,nearly 9000.the oilfogg "steal" about 10% of the hp the hyd lifters does not like that have some probl to find some serios turbo,for reason $$,but i think about garret 40-45 or holset hx 52 with small ex housing(#20 hot side) neticks t 66-72 or so..... 48-50mm WG..... i will be VERY disapointed if i dont have 600+++++hk

[Billman]

Everyone goes for the block ect route! Is nervas route not so reliable?

[auditude]

Sten Parmer Motor H-beam rods

www.stenparnermotor.se

I've been trying to find/remember that web address the past few days!

What is the story on these rods? Would someone please translate this page,
http://www.stenparnermotor.se/default.aspx?NodeId=42 regarding the rods offered? Richard Tanimura where are you?

The ones that it seems like I'd want for my stroker motor are listed as:
"Audi 2,5 155mm 20bult 50,6 ARP"

That looks like 2.5 liter, 155mm rod length, 20mm wrist pin diameter, but what is the 50.6 ARP for? Is that the price of the ARP hardware required?

How about this passage: "SPM. H-profil vevstakar är tllv.av 4340 stål för maximal hållbarhet.Ingen vänte tid,finns alltid på lager för omg.lev. 26 olika modeller i lager"

From that I can maybe figure out that they are made of 4340 steel, but not much else.

http://www.xe.com/ucc/convert.cgi shows that 980SEK equals $134.35USD. Is this correct, for each rod?

Who is running these rods? Who makes them, SPM themselves? They would most likely be privately labeled, but made by someone specializing in rods, right?

Are the prices listed inclusive of the 25% Swedish tax, or is that in addition to the tax? Do I pay the tax for export?

There has to be some gimmick or catch to this right? These rods are way cheaper than anything else, even with the weak dollar conversion. $671.76 for the set excluding delivery is much cheaper than the $1100 alternative I've seen. If this is all for real, why are they so much cheaper?

[martinjs]

Was just wondering about these myself, i have heard they are very cheap.

[martinjs]

50.6 is the big end diameter, i guess arp is the type of bolt supplied

[auditude]

50.6 is the big end diameter, i guess arp is the type of bolt supplied

I see. That would make sense. I can/will look it up, but is that the right diameter for my 95.5mm Eurovan crank?

This forum has a mention that SPM makes their own rods. There is little info online about this place, but the Volvo guys do mention them. They must understand Swedish or something.

http://www.turbobricks.org/forums/showthread.php?t=34085

I noticed that Sten Parner has a kit that has Venolia pistons and Eagle rods.

The rods from SPM isn't Eagle rods!

Yeah, I know. He makes them himself I recarll reading a swedish forum.

[nervas]

Nervas can you please give us more infos about your engine? What have you changed?

Greetings

everything is changed, you better ask what wasn't

[Billman]

Tell us! Don't let us in the dark! I want to know what have you changed for the Stroker! I am sure you have made many changes to build a race spec engine!

Many people, me included, are interested in stroker and another option as the diesel block ect is important!

Greetings
Vasilis

[nervas]

Tell us! Don't let us in the dark! I want to know what have you changed for the Stroker! I am sure you have made many changes to build a race spec engine!

Many people, me included, are interested in stroker and another option as the diesel block ect is important!

Greetings
Vasilis

well, block is stock from AAN, just machined botom part where rods with deasel crank could touch walls (don't know english so well to explain better). Rods is stock diameter, pistons is custom very short. Custom cams 278/260 (10,6 lift) , no hydraulic lifters.

EM was stock from AAN when car was on dyno with KKK/Holset HX40 hybrid made by Turboservisas (www.turboservisas.lt).

So those tests was only with 1,2bar, I think it can handle much more boost. But now when ECU and other electronic parts where stolen I'm waiting for the new LinkPlus G3 release.

[Billman]

Sorry to hear it! How was it happen? The rods are the Stock? What diesel crank do you have? AEL 95.5 stroke? What specs have your pistons?

Are there any problems with the short pistons? how high can you rev the engine?

[nervas]

Sorry to hear it! How was it happen? The rods are the Stock? What diesel crank do you have? AEL 95.5 stroke? What specs have your pistons?

came to garage after new year and saw that "suprise"

. Rods are stock diameter 1:1, but stronger. Pistons are made in Lithuania coated with ceramics 81mm, but to say height need to look after some papers, just need to find them, compression is 8,5. Crank stroke 95,5 I think that it's AEL from multivan. Capasity 2461cc.

Fuel was ordinary 98, spark plugs Denso Iridium IK31, with IK27 was misfire at ~6000rpm on track.