Stroker S2

[rs2coupe]

Nice project Pat, but did the s2 really need new paint or you just wanted a colour change?

[Pat D]

New paint

Some more pics

[Pat D]

Some progress pics at the restorations joint being prepped for some Spies Hecker

Engine bay bead blasted

[Pat D]

Stripped some more and finally off to car restoration place for new paint tomorrow if the rain stops

Decided go with voodoo blue, as seen on our local Holden vehicles

[Pat D]

Going to find a local fabricator tommorrow to see if thay can do some mods to the front sub-frame. I want to make the part under the sump flat so I can have some clearance with the girdle and room to lower the engine if it sits too high with the reverse IM. Also chomp a heap out on the corner where the down pipe goes down, so it would be easier to get a larger diameter down pipe through there. Seems like there is a lot of 'sub-frame' on that corner that can be removed & then reinforced.

[Pat D]

Steam cleaned Machine cost heaps to hire but the effort required was minimal as oppossed to using degreser and cold water. So much quicker & easier, and no risk of damaging paint work with chemicals.
I have some rust on top of the chasiss rail just below the drivers side tie rod, so will attend to that and possibly do a partial engine bay respray(strut towers and forward from there) satin finish should blend in ok, as paint on firewall is still pretty good

[Pat D]

Their 159 rods are on the shelf rifle drilling takes 2 weeks. So so long they haven't posted them yet they can do it.

Great, thanks for that. I thought it was done in the manufacturing process.

[JP]

Their 159 rods are on the shelf rifle drilling takes 2 weeks. So so long they haven't posted them yet they can do it.

[Pat D]

Hmm. I didn't go for that option. I will try and contact Pauter to get that done. Hoping they haven't made them up yet.

[JP]

Yep makes a significant difference when running smaller diameter wristpins. For example most 1.8t's on 20mm wristpins on aftermarket hbeams that are being raced start to show small end bush wear at around 10k miles which you can hear as mechanical noise on lift of, which will show up as knock on the stock management sensors to varying degrees of severity. Whereas those with rifle drilling show no wear at all as rather than scavenging for lubrication the wrist pin is now being supported under hydraulic pressure.

In the past the way the big power guys got around it was by running comparitevely heavy wristpins of 23-24mm to provide more surface area for load bearing stability compared to the smaller pins. Which imo although works is a horrible compromise especially when VAG handed us the solution in our stock engines.

[Pat D]

I'm hoping the engine bay will scrub up nice so I dont have to re-spray it. Especially the firewall behind the brake lines and all. Looks like a pain removing all that I'm going to hire a hot pressure cleaner tomorrow and see how it comes up

[Pat D]

I've gone the 159mm route with pauter rods make sure you get them rifle drilled if using 21mm wrist pin. Pics on my 2ton bugswatter thread.

Tensioner wise I tried the 3b method and didn't like it as it had too much belt flap on lift of. Using stock AAN ABY is no go either as not a lot of block thickness before water jackets. Instead I made up a plate with a spacer to run the self tensioning 16v ABF tensioner which VW used to eliminate belt flap on the taller ABF engines.

Rifle drilled for oiling the pins right? Has this been proven to make a difference with performance or durabilty?

[JP]

Not sure may have not pictured it as it was one of those last minute changes you do trying to get a car on the road forgetting to take pictures in ones moment of enthusiasm.

Not difficult to do though a nice 10mm triangular plate using the 3 x m10 threads on the front of the block. Then move tensioner around until the path of the belt clears the timing cover. Then measure up for size of spacer to correctly position the tensioner.

[Billman]

I've gone the 159mm route with pauter rods make sure you get them rifle drilled if using 21mm wrist pin. Pics on my 2ton bugswatter thread.

Tensioner wise I tried the 3b method and didn't like it as it had too much belt flap on lift of. Using stock AAN ABY is no go either as not a lot of block thickness before water jackets. Instead I made up a plate with a spacer to run the self tensioning 16v ABF tensioner which VW used to eliminate belt flap on the taller ABF engines.

Interesting...dind't noticed anything on mine with the 3b setup...how does this ABF tensioner and spacer works? Pictures?

[Error404]

good info as always JP
Are there pics in your thread of this tensioner set-up?