RS2 ADU Engine Rebuild

[Doug_RS2]

Zip it

[Chasman]

I'd go SFS for hoses ;-)
My Miltek 3" catback is about as good as you can get off the shelf...will be for sale early next year too Chas!
Machining services can add up depending how much work is required on the head and block. Then again, could be peanuts...no way of telling until everything is assessed on stripdown.

I know your taste for the best Lee - I want whatever you're replacing it with!

[Chasman]

Zip it

OK, I'll shut up then...

Zip file attached...

[Chasman]

Exhaust should be a custom one made from 3", you wont get an 'off the shelf' exhaust that will be good enough.

Pistons arent really needed, you can skim the original ones to lower CR.

Cams either stick with the RS2 ones or get some 7A cams

Dont forget things like speedflow hoses and lots of Samco stylee hoses, this little lot would possibly cost upto about 450 quid!!!! It all mounts up.

The other thing is labour costs to include, if you wont be doing the work then you will need to pay someone to do it. And doing a full rebuild isnt exactly a five minute job.

As an estimate I would say off the top of my head, it would be about 40 hours to strip rebuild etc etc etc

OK I've added the skimmed pistons to my copy but I need more detail on your other suggestions - see the zip file I posted in reply to Doug. You'll soon get the idea. Once we complete this it will save us all lots of time... we can alter it for S2s, s2->RS2 upgrades etc.etc. etc.

[Chasman]

Tom - pistons might well have to be custom - especially if there are any bore wear or scoring.

Can this block be sleeved or is that a bad idea?

[audiman]

No it cant be sleeved, it may not even need a bore at that mileage.

[Mark Halligan]

Can this block be sleeved or is that a bad idea?

As Tom says it may not even need boring unless scored, on a personal note I would use the OEM Karl Shmidt/Mahle pistons if I did another rebuild now, no real reason though other than I managed to partially melt two JE's, albeit through my own stupidity and JE leaving a sharp edge adjacent the valve pockets.
I have a standard OEM piston on my desk at work and have spent a lot of time looking at it and its a good piston, which I am told is good for ~600bhp, although you may gain a weight saving with custom ones.

[Chasman]

I would use the OEM Karl Shmidt/Mahle pistons if I did another rebuild now.

It does seem to be thouroughly over-engineered where it counts. I'm told that Dahlback have a 1000 BHP car with the same coilpacks as mine... for the purposes of the spreadsheet I'll put the OEM pistons in as well as the skim that Tom recommended and people can choose what they want. Do you have OEM part numbers, price etc. for them?

BTW what did you do to melt the JEs?

[audiman]

He left an important hose clip loose on the WGFV

[PekkaS]

Some important parts are missing from your list, like head&crank gasket sets, head bolts etc. Also might be wise to change water pump and some water hoses at same time.

[Chasman]

Some important parts are missing from your list, like head&crank gasket sets, head bolts etc. Also might be wise to change water pump and some water hoses at same time.

Good point, I'll add them tonight. Does anyone know what those spring loaded pipe clips that you use instead of jubilee clips are called?

[Habib]

Why not buy my car of me will save you alot

[Mark Halligan]

Some important parts are missing from your list, like head&crank gasket sets, head bolts etc.

Yep ARP headstuds are worth getting instead of stretch bolts these will pay for themselves in the long run if you have to have the head off again for any reason.

[audiman]

Also i have heard that they are limited to about 420bhp. Apparently they stretch further with extra power and cause the head to 'lift'.

[Mark Halligan]

Also i have heard that they are limited to about 420bhp. Apparently they stretch further with extra power and cause the head to 'lift'.

yep another good reason to the headstuds