1994 Audi 80 quattro Competition - STW project
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Just looks cleaner and you will be able to move into a more popular alternator should you need a replacement and no more v-belts squeeling.
I would keep it 16V if you are staying 4 cylinder since it is allready in there. You can still get alot of decent parts used for the 6A/9A/PL/KR/ABF if you are on a budget.Comment
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Update, the car is back on the continent after driving on the wrong side of the road for a half year...
But it was magnificent!
The investments paid off, the Compi really drives perfect. The engine doesn't use any oil and the sound it makes is breathtaking.
SOUND: http://vid216.photobucket.com/albums...pszpqkzw4h.mp4
It's also a head-turner, surely at every gas station I got nice comments on the car. Some English are really petrol heads.
Also did a lot of driving around; the Yorkshire Dales, Lancashire, Lake District, ... Lovely roads there, and even better scenery.




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Were they adversely affected by the paint overspray ?

Looking good.
The small back injection lines clips I got from the dealer a few years ago. May be still available. Can't be that many people looking for them.
I'd be inclined to keep the existing engine as it is, or skip the 1.8T and go straight for an I5t 20v.
But maybe wait a while and see does the 2.5L later model 5 cylinder engine become popular cheap, with kits for conversion becoming available in a few years time. I can't remember the engine code I am referring to. They're starting to be done in the US. The IROZ Motorsport site may have more information.
I think it might be the same basic engine that is in the TTRS. Others will be more accurate / informative.
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And I'm still looking for a windscreen WITHOUT green solar band, do anyone know where to find those?
I already had one fitted in, but it was a bad production so there is dirt between the two layers and I want to find a other one. But the supplier doesn't have it in stock anymore...Comment
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The Compi was leaking some oil and after a quick look it was obvious that it came from the oil pan gasket which was getting hard and had some cracks.
To replace a rubber of less then 20 quid, it didn't seem to me as a difficult job. But hell it was...

It started with the last 5 bolts of the oil pan which were reachless, so I had to remove the frame of the gear box.
After unscrewing all the bolts, the oil pan was still stuck. So I had to remove the frame of the power steering, even after that the oil pan was still stuck at the oil pump which is sitting in the oil pan.
The only solution was lifting the engine some 10 centimeters and trying to loosen the oil pan. But first some sleep.

After lifting up the engine the next day, I still had to unscrew the subframe because the oil pan was still stuck.
But then = great succes


Respraying the oil pan (since it was now the time to do it
) and refitting the new oil pan gasket



From now of on it isn't leaking a single drop of oil
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But now my interior cloth is loosening at the driver side, today I pulled it and vacuumed all the old stuff and temporary refitted it with some glue.

Does someone has a solution for this? I was thinking a thick double-sided tape to refit it?Comment
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So you did not remove the remove the subframe to start with? That would have been the easiest way (if the bolts come out that is).
Bit sursprised the Competition did not come with an alu oil pan
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