Ben's V8 Coupe Quattro project

[LucheS2@20v]

Ahh, this v8 sound...

[Grillage]

I've done a bunch of research on the temperature curves for the different sensors.

It looks like the sensor in the back side of the PS head is the same as a URS car. 035 919 369M is the part number. This is what goes to VEMS.
I've been using the bosch default curve for this. I just flashed the NTC 256/1900 patch into the box today but I don't really know what that does. Should I adjust the curve from the Bosch default?


What exactly does the patch do?

I've been chasing down what I think/thought are slight overheating issues but I may just have the wrong readings.


Next is the sensor for the gauge in the instrument cluster.
I have a bunch of different Bentley Manuals and looked up the test readings for each of them to see if any were the same. I originally had 077 919 501 in there which read way hot all the time. Now I have 035919369M (the same as the back of the head) which I know is wrong - and it's too cool

So to summarize, when the car is at operating temp - which I am calling the times where I am either on the highway or driving in the city without a bunch of traffic lights -
I see 92-93 on the VEMS readout from the proper ABH sensor marked 035919369M
From the proper ABH sensor 077919501 the CQ gauge is at the 110 degree mark
From another 035919369M - the CQ gauge is at the 80 degree mark.

Below is what the Bentleys say the sensor that feed that car's gauge should read...



I'm going to try the simplest route which should be using the CQ's MFTS to feed the CQ cluster. Hopefully it will fit in there!

Also, now that the car is running mostly well, I am going to do a dyno tune to see maximize the power I'm putting down.

In order to do this, I needed to get the Intake Manifold Switchover function working.

As of this morning I have it working at least in test mode from VEMS through one of the steppers! I have it set to 4100 RPM - can anyone confirm this?
Also, it was defaulting to what appears to me to be the higher rev position. Am I correct that with no vacuum it is in the lower RPM position and at 4100 RPM it should let vacuum into the bellows and pull the IM arm? I just check the invert box to get it to function that way.

[Grillage]

I haven't posted here much about this car lately. Mostly on Projectpad

Mostly I've been working to figure out the steering problems.
Turned out the rack was likely just fine the first time. As were two of the three pumps. The issue was that the V8 power steering pump is a 150bar unit while the coupe expects 100bar.

First I tried to install an A8 power steering pump bracket and a cabriolet pump. The pump fit that bracket but it was not in line with the rest of the serpentine belt stuff. Additionally, the pump would have been outboard of where the V8 pump sits and would have interfered with my coolant hose setup.

So, I bit the bullet and found an MR2 electric power steering pump. I ended up getting the later version that is a single piece inclusive of the reservoir.


I found a decent writeup on the install of the pump here: http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58599" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; from a guy in Montreal doing an install on an Acura or something. These are his pics:



I got it all wired up and as part of the install I realized that I could greatly reduce the serpentine belt routing. Since I have eliminated the AC, the PS pump and the Viscous fan, I have just the Alternator left. So I could eliminate all the "X"'d stuff:


To do this and keep the tensioner in the same spot, I stole an idea from Marc Swanson's V8TT coupe and made the tensioner push down rather than pull up. This was done by removing the spring and strut on the tensioner and replacing it with a turnbuckle that pushes the tensioner into the belt:



Back to the MR2 Pump install, I bought this bracket from the dude in Montreal who made a few spares. It holds the pump and let me paint it, mount it to the frame of the coupe.


I put a little heat shield made of scrap aluminum ductwork cut to fit in too since it's awful close to the exhaust manifold:


Lastly, I installed an 80* thermostat while I had the radiator off the car. I've been operating in the 92-95 range when I'm moving and while that's not bad, I wanted to cool it down a little. Now I'm at 83-87 while moving. The new thermostat seems to be functioning better within the system though. I previously felt like the car was getting hot (95-100 while sitting) and the thermostat wasn't open. That doesn't seem to be happening now.
That's pretty much it lately.

[Grillage]

That looks amazing! For the headlight trims you should just make a little L-shaped mount for each side and then secure it to the bumper. You can glue it, screw it on or do whatever you want to make it hold on. There is room for a lot of interpretations. Just there is no point looking for a way to attach it to the headlight - just use the bumper.

Also, I finally dealt with this issue this weekend.
I cut the trims I had at the point where they come back to meet the headlight tab:


Then I tapped a screw through where the headlight holds the little tab on the bottom of the trim and voila!


Now I just have to deal with the fact that I have a Laser red hood and trims but a tornado coupe...

[quattro-nick]

how light feels your steering wheel with this mr2 pump? i use a elektric opel astra pump and it does his job but I have to admit that the steering wheel is not as light as the origional pump but good enough for me

[Grillage]

how light feels your steering wheel with this mr2 pump? i use a elektric opel astra pump and it does his job but I have to admit that the steering wheel is not as light as the origional pump but good enough for me

It's a little heavier than stock especially at rest. It's a big improvement over the v8 pump though.