S2 Avant -93

[Lago Blue]

Antsa,

Great alternator service write-up, deserves its' own thread-header and perhaps a sticky in electrical. Can you describe how you knew in advance, which bearings and slip rings to order and from where; and how the new slip rings are fixed in place. Thank you sir.

[Nuvo]

Yes, all present and correct.

[Antsa]

The alternator posts any good now?

[Antsa]

Alternator repair continues...

The front casing got a bake to ease installation. The bearing was put in a freezer. Needless to say the kitcen police wasn't home


20200119_153648.jpg


Front bearing in place. This pic shows the retaining plate.


20200119_163645.jpg


All that was left was the carbon brushes. I ordered genuine items from Audi just to find out they were too big. I could grind them down but I decided to try to find correct items. Fortunately local spare parts store was ope sunday and had the correct sized items on the shelf. However they are some sort of far east crap but they will have to do for now. They just solder on to the voltage regulator



20200119_175324.jpg

20200119_174151.jpg

That was basically it. Refitting is the reverse of removal. If someone needs I have the bosch p/ns for the bearings

[Nuvo]

Yes, the interior light pics can all be seen.

[Antsa]

I can't see them either if I log out. I will probably have to make a new post. How about the interior light post, every photo there ok?

[Nuvo]

That's a great little write up Antsa.
PS. Some of the alternator rebuild pics aren't displayed at present, well not for me at any rate.

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers

[Antsa]

Nice job!
what make is the crimp tool? I can't make it out. I need one

Yes it's a Kamasa K248, with changeable jaws to allow crimping of different terminals

[Antsa]

Edit: I had to split this post because the forum would not show all images. There might be a picture limit/post that I wasn't aware of

I also had a increasing noise coming from the alternator, so I figured it was time to change the bearings. Luckily they are readily available. The removal of the alternator was a pretty straightforward job. After taking all the mounting bolts out and loosening the belt, one ac hose had to be loosened to get the alternator out under the car.

Alternator on a bench. The shaft has place for a xzn10 socket to counterhold the shaft while undoing the nut. Luckily mine was not too tight.

20200118_123708.jpg


After loosening the nut the pulley just pulls out. Next was the removal of the rear plastic cover. Three small screws and a plastic clips on the side.


20200118_123839.jpg

20200118_123907.jpg



Under the cover reveals the diode bridge. Three screws there as well


20200118_124738.jpg


After that you have to remove the stator leads from the diode bridge. I was a little afraid to do this because I wasn't sure if I can get the leads back on properly. There is a copper "double hook" where the lead are crimped. I took a small screwdriver and gently opened the connectors. Fortunately nothing broke and I was able to get the leads back on later. After the screws and leads are loosened, the diode bridge just pulls out.


20200118_132440.jpg


After that the casing bolts were removed


20200118_125029.jpg


I used a pin punch to gently tap the casing to loose the two halves



20200118_125327.jpg




The inner slip ring was worn. I suspected this and had already ordered new one



20200118_125916.jpg

The rear bearing just pulls out. (Yes I know its a sucky puller )


20200118_130631.jpg


Then it was time to release rotor from the front casing. I used a puller as per the pic


20200118_140515.jpg


And out. After this I just used a socket and a hammer to tap out the front bearing. Before that I took out the bearing retaining plate that holds the bearing in (sorry no pic)


20200118_140818.jpg


The casing got soda blasted. It doesn't take away the deepest oxidation marks but I can say it's cleaner than before!

20200118_164705.jpg

20200118_164718.jpg



Then I took out the old slip ring. Just unsolder the rotor leads and brake the plastic around the shaft. When fitting new one be sure to align it correctly. The slip has a small snub that has a matching pocket in the rotor. After the slip rings were in I installed the bearing just by using proper sized deep socket and a hammer.


20200118_164830.jpg

Continued on post #103...

[newsh]

Nice job!
what make is the crimp tool? I can't make it out. I need one

I see Kamasa

[Tractor Dave]

Nice job!
what make is the crimp tool? I can't make it out. I need one

[Antsa]

A little update

My interior lights have not been working since I bought the car and giving the dark winters we have here it was starting to be a little annoying. I already had confirmed that one of the wires were broken, so it was time to find exactly where


I can't stop loving this loom spaghetti

20200108_114120.jpg

To dig out the harness I had to remove the front seat. If something is straightforward with these cars the seat removal is one of them!

20200108_114219.jpg


So I removed the tape around the harness and found the badly corroded wire just under the seat.

20200108_114240.jpg
20200108_114316.jpg

So the damaged wire was removed from under the dash connector and a replacement was routed under the rear seats where I soldered the new wire to the loom. I also purchased a new crimp tool for non insulated terminals:

20200108_123658.jpg
20200108_124534.jpg
20200108_124555.jpg

After that the terminal was inserted to the connector under the dash and the wires got a clean and a harness wrap:

20200108_134518.jpg

And finally I have interior lights The light panel was also replaced.

20200108_145818.jpg

[Antsa]

Nice update, you've been pretty busy! Did you get any further with your smoking issue?

Thanks! I finally had a couple days just for myself and I decided to get some work done on the car The smoking is annoying since it has been very intermittent and it doesn't even do it everytime. Only things that I have noticed that smoke appeared only when gently cruising (engine under vacuum) and engine was up to temp. Zero smoking when idling cold. Can I safely rule out the stem seals?

However I did change my oil to 10w40 from 10w50, but I did it early spring and the smoking issue only appeared now.

[Tractor Dave]

Valve stem seals normally cause smoke when you first start up but as they get worse will also cause smoke on coast. Try going down a steep hill with your foot off the throttle when the engine is good and warm and see how much smoke you make. Another cause of blue smoke could be the rings. You used to be able to buy an additive to free gummed rings and Morris do a ring free oil which works well in the old International tractor