S2 Avant -93

[S2_avant 19930325]

Where did you buy Meyle window lifter switches, where did you but the complete set of aero blades,the floor rubber mats ? Great job with your car. Best Regards

[Filip_FIN]

Hienosti tehty, looking good !

[Antsa]

I happened to find a forum discussion regarding fitting new wiper arms and aero wipers. So I had to get them too.


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The passenger side wiper is a little too long, to I had to shorten it. There is plastic end cap on the wiper and I wanted to be able to use it on the shortened blade. It required a bit of modification to fit the cap, but it looks neat now.

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The wiper linkage was rebuilt and well greased. Error 404's how to had good instructions for this. Not too much grease on the spindles.

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After cleaning it was obvious that the plating on the spindles has somewhat worn off.

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I also wanted to put grease in the ball joints. I used a spanner to pop the ball out of the socket, fortunately they were not too tight.



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My wiper motors gear did not have the plastic end cap that could be removed. So I very wisely thought I could separate the motor from the gear and get a little grease put in that way. What I did not think, was that when opening the motor all the carbon brushes and their springs would come off I was able to put the motor back together, but it was all unnecessary work.


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Here is the end result, I think they look good and the aero blades are much better imo.


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I also purchased these. They are led puddle lights to be fitted under the front doors They are not installed yet, but i will post photos when I fit them.


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[Antsa]

How can i make a order on those ? webpage ?
Best Regards

You should be able to do it here : https://www.finjector.com/eng/wire_j..._terminals-343

[S2_avant 19930325]

Thanks mate, the splice connectors are actually from a local Finnish company called Finjector

How can i make a order on those ? webpage ?
Best Regards

[Antsa]

Nice neat work as ever Antsa, did you get those particular crimps from vehicle wiring products too?

Thanks mate, the splice connectors are actually from a local Finnish company called Finjector

[Nuvo]

Nice neat work as ever Antsa, did you get those particular crimps from vehicle wiring products too?

[Antsa]

The wiring for the footwell lights were done together with the window lifter/sunroof loom repair. I had a failure in the old sunroof motor's microswitch so I had ordered a working condition used motor. It was a little surprise to find the new motor not working and the first thought was that the new motor was faulty too. After a little bit of investigating it was clear that the motor was not getting any voltage. So it was time to dig out the current flow diagrams and start looking for possible damages to the wiring loom. It did not take me too long to find this behind the rubber boot between the drivers door and A-pillar.


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Nearly every wire had a crack at the insulation and a couple of wires were completely cut. So it was time to send an order to vehicle wiring products for correct colored wires and start the disassembly. I really got into the work and did not remember to get good photos, but here are some. The jack is there to help me unbolt the door by myself Believe it or not, I actually got the wiring to look decent even if it isn't too obvious from the pics.

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I used this type of crimp connectors to splice into the existing loom and just put an adhesive lined heat shrink tubing on top of it

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I did not get a final photo of the finished wiring. But here's a few pics of the footwell lights now working. It was still kind of a sunny evening so they are not too bright but I feel they look good

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[Antsa]

Very nice -I think they are Coupe boot lamps.

Thanks! I checked the Tradition page and they seem to be fitted into Coupe.

[Bowie69]

Very nice -I think they are Coupe boot lamps.

[Antsa]

After modifying the lights to suit, it was just a matter of cutting holes for them. This is the passenger side trim with the hole marked out



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Dremel is a handy tool to have for jobs like these. This is a trial fit just to make sure everything fits before reassembling the light

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Here is the passenger side fitted

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Same thing was done for the drivers side


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The wiring was done together with a window lifter loom repair, but more about that later.

[Antsa]

Now that the switches back lights are sorted, I fitted some footwell lights. I got the inspiration again from Audi Coupe OEM+ Interior Lighting Guide that can be found here.

I found these interior lights from Tradition and they were 3 euros a piece, so I bought 6 of them

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Pretty soon it was obvious that I these are not meant to fitted by pushing into a square hole, so I had to take them apart and modify them.

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A little use of the dremel did the modifications needed. All the unnecessary plastic was cut off and I made the holding tabs a little wedge shaped so that they can be snapped into place

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[Antsa]

Do you first desolder the stator leads from diod bridge or do you just open them with a screw driver ?

I think that there is no solder used on the stator to diode bridge connection. I just carefully levered the connectors open with a screwdriver.

[S2_avant 19930325]

Edit: I had to split this post because the forum would not show all images. There might be a picture limit/post that I wasn't aware of

I also had a increasing noise coming from the alternator, so I figured it was time to change the bearings. Luckily they are readily available. The removal of the alternator was a pretty straightforward job. After taking all the mounting bolts out and loosening the belt, one ac hose had to be loosened to get the alternator out under the car.

Alternator on a bench. The shaft has place for a xzn10 socket to counterhold the shaft while undoing the nut. Luckily mine was not too tight.

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After loosening the nut the pulley just pulls out. Next was the removal of the rear plastic cover. Three small screws and a plastic clips on the side.


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Under the cover reveals the diode bridge. Three screws there as well


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After that you have to remove the stator leads from the diode bridge. I was a little afraid to do this because I wasn't sure if I can get the leads back on properly. There is a copper "double hook" where the lead are crimped. I took a small screwdriver and gently opened the connectors. Fortunately nothing broke and I was able to get the leads back on later. After the screws and leads are loosened, the diode bridge just pulls out.


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After that the casing bolts were removed


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I used a pin punch to gently tap the casing to loose the two halves



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The inner slip ring was worn. I suspected this and had already ordered new one



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The rear bearing just pulls out. (Yes I know its a sucky puller )


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Then it was time to release rotor from the front casing. I used a puller as per the pic


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And out. After this I just used a socket and a hammer to tap out the front bearing. Before that I took out the bearing retaining plate that holds the bearing in (sorry no pic)


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The casing got soda blasted. It doesn't take away the deepest oxidation marks but I can say it's cleaner than before!

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Then I took out the old slip ring. Just unsolder the rotor leads and brake the plastic around the shaft. When fitting new one be sure to align it correctly. The slip has a small snub that has a matching pocket in the rotor. After the slip rings were in I installed the bearing just by using proper sized deep socket and a hammer.


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Continued on post #103...

Do you first desolder the stator leads from diod bridge or do you just open them with a screw driver ?

[Rikki Kitto]

Wow didn't even know my window switches had lights in them never worked in twenty years