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S2 Avant -93

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  • I always use green loctite. Never had a leaking plug even with very corroded sockets.
    If possible then installation(hammering) is done with engine block tilted horizontally in stand.
    1990 2.2 20VT Audi Coupe Quattro
    *Hx35/k26, MaxxECU, Wagner EM/IC *RS2 Recaro *4pot-Brembo *3" turboback *Treser *Koni/H&R
    1990 Audi 200 20v Avant 2.2 20VT *7 Seater *Full electric gizmos

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    • The FEBI plugs are perfect, use thread lock to seal them and don’t apply pressure to the dish, just the edge. I have fitted thousands of FEBI core plugs and never had one leak.

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      • Friday I received everything I needed to pressure test the coolant system for leaks. I fitted the water manifold and used silicone caps to block all outlets. When torquing the water manifold bolts I found three of the threads were stripped and they couldn't take the required 10nm torque. So I repaired them using helicoils. After filling the system with coolant I found that one of the water manifold outlets on the cylinder head is leaking. Upon closer inspection it seems that whoever made the holes for the water manifold (I have a modified 7A head) did not do a very good job. There is a deep scratch in the head where the water manifold o-ring should seal. Nothing a little bit of rtv won't fix Now I have left the rtv to cure before attempting the pressure test again.

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        • Leak test now done. Water manifold is going to need to be sealed with rtv and the rear block coolant outlet needed a new o ring. After that I filled the block and head with coolant and pressurized the system to 1.4 bar using compressed air through the turbo coolant feed. All good now

          Tomorrow I will give the first set of aluminum parts a ceramic coating. I ordered a bottle of cerakote clear ceramic coating meant for aluminum parts.

          20260511_094054.jpg




          20260511_094105.jpg


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          • All aluminum parts were coated today. First they all got a clean in hot water plus dish soap, dried with compressed air and then I sprayed on the coating with a small spraygun. The stuff goes on pretty thin and that the half litre bottle I got was an overkill, I used maximum of 100ml of it.


            20260513_144713.jpg



            20260513_144701.jpg

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            • I went down the aqua blast and clear powder coat route with the exhaust manifold and turbo turbine housing done by Camcoat.



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              • how much cost that cerakote bottle? Parts looks nice
                Audi Coupe Quattro 2.3 20V

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                • Originally posted by Crasher View Post
                  I went down the aqua blast and clear powder coat route with the exhaust manifold and turbo turbine housing done by Camcoat.
                  Nice looking parts I was also looking for passivation treatments, but that would mean I should post the parts to be treated and the companies that do them generally like to do bigger batches at once.

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                  • Originally posted by Tom_ View Post
                    how much cost that cerakote bottle? Parts looks nice
                    It was 80euros for the 473ml bottle.

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                    • I've been goin back and forth about balancing the pistons and connecting rods myself. I didn't have a precision scale or balancing fixture for weighing the rod big and small end separately. Turns out that scales capable of 0.1gram accuracy are not that expensive and a balancing jig can be 3D printed. So my friend is going to print me one

                      While waiting for the jig to be finished I started with the pistons.


                      All pistons were numbered, put on the scale and the weight was noted.

                      20260517_175846.jpg


                      This is the lightest one which all the other pistons will me matched to


                      20260517_175849.jpg



                      This is the spot were I removed material. Taking away 2 grams from aluminum piston is a little terrifying for someone putting an engine together for the first time.


                      20260517_175915.jpg

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                      • Connecting rod weighing fixture was printed and put together. It works very well given that it probably cost a little over 10 euros in material. All the rods big and small ends were withing 0,5 gram, so there was no need grind anything Hopefully next week I can take the crank for balancing.


                        Tellinki.png

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                        • I had Camcoat treat the pistons, Ceramic on the crown, anti friction on the skirts and oil shedding inside. Probably makes no difference but looks nice... and I know it's in there; rather like when I build model tanks and aircraft with full interiors (but no humans ) but once built, you can't see them.



                          I had the rods and crank Black Nitrided, AKA Tuftriding





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