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I used the 3M 08800 as a coating on top of a epoxy primer. After that, I used 3M urethane sealer on the body seams. If I recall corrctly, it took about 12 bags of the 08800 to do the underside and the wheel housings.
The sills are just painted since they will be covered inside plastic trim.
I also added some small wheels to it so can move it around more easily. Its a useful feature since now I can push the car outside so its out of the way if I need to clean the garage.
Thats all for now. There is going to be a little break for these updates, my summer holiday is over and I have to service both daily drivers before I can get back to working on Audi
What a lovely jig...could you share more info regarding dimensions ? Really nice project and topic
No exact dimensions available right now, it is just right size rectangular pipe inside rear chassis rails and round pipe inside front rails. Both have 8mm thick steel plates at the end, which the vertical wooden support bolts onto
Fuel lines installed. Just to see that I have made a mistake. The feed line is kind of in the way of the engine sub harness connector bracket. I might be able to install all the connectors to the bracket by just pulling the fuel line out of the way by hand, but I think I'm going to do a few more bends so I can get the line to run a bit higher and closer to firewall.
Even though the fuel system is not completely ready, I couldn't resist doing a leak test. This test covers the section from fuel tank bulkhead to the end of the hard line in the engine bay. System got charged to 9 bar.
After about five hours the pressure was 8.8 bar. I'm calling this good enough. My self made test setup has two hose connections secured with jubilee clips and at least six threaded connections sealed with ptfe tape, so plenty of sources for small leak outside the fuel system itself.
I bought myself a 20ton press to fit the wheel bearings. Bearings were easy to install with the press, but hubs were easier to install this way. The press serves as an excellent subtitute for a vise.
These are the lines around the front strut and behind rear lower arm. Can't install them since I don't have brake hoses yet. I will have to do a test fit on the calipers so I can measure and make an order on custom hoses.
Here it's installed. Went in easily with the press. I quickly tried torquing a balljoint to the arm and the knurling didn't slip even if it's shorter than original.
Nice work
Note that the black screw down panel that covers the wire either side needs some tiger seal in places otherwise it will leak in heavy rain. I found out the hard way
Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Silver Rs2 Project gone
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project gone
This grommet was broken so I got a new one. Pretty hard to install on the assembled harness however. Every connector had to be depinned and then all the wiring was wrapped in masking tape and lubed. This worked out ok.
Nice work
Note that the black screw down panel that covers the wire either side needs some tiger seal in places otherwise it will leak in heavy rain. I found out the hard way
Thanks for the tip Dave I'll have to make sure it seals correctly.
This grommet was broken so I got a new one. Pretty hard to install on the assebled harness however. Every connector had to be depinned and then all the wiring was wrapped in masking tape and lubed. This worked out ok.
It was a little head scratcher at first, but the masking tape and grease made it much easier than trying to pull the whole harness through the grommet without any lubrication. My cheap set of terminal removal tools was propably the worst part of this
I had broken wires right at this point of the harness that I repaired some time ago. I only wrapped them in harness tape then but since the grommet was available, I thought it was worth doing properly this time.
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