S2 Avant -93

[Antsa]

That's good to know. I already have a multitool with two scraper blades and did a little test run on the rear wheel arches and it seemed like a tool for the job

[Antsa]

Engine and gearbox are out!

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Engine is now resting on pieces of logs and hanging a little bit from the crane. A friend promised to loan me an engine stand but I haven't had time to collect it yet.


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[Tractor Dave]

Have you got an old car tyre? Perfect for sitting the engine in.

[Antsa]

Actually I have the old spare tyre! Never even thought of using that for engine support. I'll have to try that

[Antsa]

I've been on a summer holiday and had a little trip with my family so it's been a little quiet with the project.

But the engine stand got sorted and the engine, gearbox and diff got a little cleaning.

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I also have been cleaning the wheel arches. It's very slow job since there are a lot of hard to reach areas.

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I also found that the gear shifter boot is torn. Of course NLA. Anybody have a spare or know an alternative? Maybe a suitable cv boot?

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I also needed to do something completely different than wire wheeling the arches, so I rented a spray extraction cleaner and did the carpet and luggage compartment mat.

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Carpet cleaned pretty well. Driver side has some wear and tear but passenger side looks ok.



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Next step will be building a tip over jig for the chassis and the begin cleaning the underside of the car

[Antsa]

Tip over jig is now completed

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And it works too!


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I also added some small wheels to it so can move it around more easily. Its a useful feature since now I can push the car outside so its out of the way if I need to clean the garage.


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Thats all for now. There is going to be a little break for these updates, my summer holiday is over and I have to service both daily drivers before I can get back to working on Audi

[Rikki Kitto]

Great idea ?

[Antsa]

Thank you sir! However it's not my idea. I came across a video of this type of a jig so thought of giving it a shot. It works great and cost me 100 euros in wood, screws and the small wheels. Chinese made chassis rotisseries are almost 1000 euros

[Tractor Dave]

Amazing

[S2_avant 19930325]

20240720_082452.jpg 20240720_082416.jpg Hi .. could you help since your harness is loose. Could you somehow help if these connectors are used and if you what they are for or where they go .. not easy to track the m in the car.

[Antsa]

Hello mate

I'm sorry but my wiring looms are tucked away and they are a complete mess, so I can't look from the looms directly.

However I took a look from the wiring schematics for you. I could not take full page screenshots but I hope these helps. You can go through the diagrams yourself and they can be found at S2central.com.

Does the cable that goes to the black connector, have a red tracer color on the wire? If so, it seems to be a reverse light switch cable.


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White connector seems to be related to window lifters.



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And finally the grey connector seems to be between your wiper switch and rear window wash/wipe relay.


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Hope this helps,

Antti

[Antsa]

Not much have happened lately, but I managed to prepare all the chassis components for sand blasting. I will give this to a professional who has proper equipment for the job and they will also paint them in primer for me.


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[Antsa]

While all the subframes and wishbones are still at the sandblasters, I flipped the car to it's side and started to clean the underside. Some rust on the chassis rails around the subframe but it seems it's only on the surface and steel feels solid.

The grey coating on the body panels has done very good job at preventing corrosion. On a 31 year old car this is the only rust I've found so far. That's why I'm tempted not to take this to bare metal. Instead I want to leave the oe coating on, but what would be the best stuff to put on it? I've been thinking maybe light sanding or scuffing with scotchbrite followed by epoxy paint, but I'm a little bit worried about adhesion. What is the yellow colored coating that Audi has used on top of this grey coating?


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Multitool with flexible scraper blade works pretty well on the underseal.


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[Tractor Dave]

I would go over everything with a wire wheel in the grinder to remove that yellow stuff, any rust and scuff up the e coat. Then after a de grease I would use two coats of Novol Protect epoxy. Great stuff. You must paint that within 96 hours min but i usually paint the next morning with your preferred top coat.
Dont forget to go over the bits that were rusty with a good rust converter. I use the Bilt Hamber stuff. This will convert any tiny rust spots that you couldn't reach with the wire wheel.

[Antsa]

Thanks for the tip Dave. Yes I was planning to use the wire wheel after, the multitool is great but it leaves a little bit of the old stone chip coating behind. The rusty spots are meant to be sand blasted but I'll have to see if my cheap blaster is up to the task.