A rough price for upgrading to RS2 spec

[waveydavey]

I'm in the middle of an RS2 upgrade so I can give you the costs involved,

3" turbo back exhaust from Longlife Leeds £699
RS2 intercooler and exhaust manifold from Quattrocorner £905
Hybrid 2871 turbo, RS2 replica injectors & boost hoses from Quattronics £1460

So the total stands at just over £3k at the moment. All the parts are brand new.

When I get it all fitted I'm having the head removed and overhauled along with a new timing belt, water pump etc and a remap. I'll be over the moon if this only costs £1k but am expecting more like £1.5k and hoping it doesn't go as far as £2k.

When you add up the cost of an RS2 conversion and add it to the value of your own car you are not that far away from the bottom end of the RS2 market so you have to consider whether you are better just selling your S2 and buying an RS2 instead. Do you get rid of the car you have, knowing it's faults and history or do you buy an unknown twelve year old car that may be a money pit? The choice is yours.

Cheers

David

[Acidburn]

..and where does such a supply come from?! Do you have a secret hoarde of broken RS2's? They cost a packet from Audi.. i bought one for about that figure myself, but it had minor pully damage (had been welded, painted + pressure tested tho).

Lol i have my sources, had an rs2 airbox £40 the other week

[Jon441cc]

No one has added the extra fuel costs yet

[Robatron]

When you add up the cost of an RS2 conversion and add it to the value of your own car you are not that far away from the bottom end of the RS2 market so you have to consider whether you are better just selling your S2 and buying an RS2 instead. Do you get rid of the car you have, knowing it's faults and history or do you buy an unknown twelve year old car that may be a money pit? The choice is yours.

Cheers

David

This is true, however I know the history of this car and I know it has been looked after by myself and Dan_b (previous owner) so I am going to stick with the old girl.

It will soon be treated to a new coat of paint and then I will be looking to RS2 spec the car so if all goes to plan it should be an awesome car by the end of it all!

I hope to get a few of the parts abit cheaper too so hopefully it will keep the cost down in that sense too.

[pixsaudisex2]

well i carnt say as ive noticed after just scanning through this thread that anyone mentioned number one the lovely seats the lovely suspension and the lovely brakes but to name a few extra items if your just after the power than yeah but to do it right.. costs more than going out and just buying an rs2 id have said ..
( was the ecu mentioned as you obviously need this doing also)

[dubmeister]

Other items that you may need to take into account (if they are not already done)
uprated suspension/bushes/cv joints
uprated brakes/calipers-+ bigger wheels if they are big brake kits
uprated clutch
how many miles on the box??
exhaust
plastic seat covers for when full boost comes in........................

I've uprated/engine swapped/tuned loads of cars and the customer never looks into all the hidden costs (you will be increasing the horsepower by about 40% (approx...)
and then they phone up a fortnight later and wonder why their 150K gearbox has exploded!! or why there is a smell of burning as they have tried to brake from 120mph...
work out a figure and then add half again. ..................I **** you not.
Anyway good luck-you will enjoy it when it's done

[spink]

You dont need to buy an Rs2 ecu.

[UrS4boy]

Jamo said:

"Rod rating is against primarly against torque not bhp. 500nm max 550nm at a push but thats living in the dangerzone."

I have now found a thread where Mihnea went through the torque vs rod strength issue and I now understand torque is more the issue than the hp. However, I find it strange that almost nobody in North America running an RS2 turbo has had rod problems. We tend to run off-the-shelf MTM/Dahlback or MRC software and, I presume, this is written to prevent rod issues. The odd time somebody has done a custom remap and ended up wishing they had done their rods. But this is usually with a GT3071 or the like, not a KKK RS2 turbo.

[Ross]

The RS2 turbo will push out as much torque as the GT3071...

I was running 430bhp on a GT3071 and people running 360-380bhp RS2 setups's were pushing slightly more peak torque than I was - 390ft/lbs vs. 410ft/lbs if i remember; they really can pack a punch in the mid range!

MRC won't push the RS2 turbo to the max unless it's on forged rods...

Definitely consider the other options; brakes, suspension and clutch all need to be uprated to cope with such a setup. Stock clutch may last a little if it's in good nick, but would need to be uprated when it starts slipping, and ideally when the rest of hte work is done. Such things will be worn out much quicker, but the S2 is proven to cope very well with the demands of a 300-380bhp setup! Basically just look at the other things that were uprated on the rs2, was obviously for a reason...

[Jamo]

Jamo said:

"Rod rating is against primarly against torque not bhp. 500nm max 550nm at a push but thats living in the dangerzone."

I have now found a thread where Mihnea went through the torque vs rod strength issue and I now understand torque is more the issue than the hp. However, I find it strange that almost nobody in North America running an RS2 turbo has had rod problems. We tend to run off-the-shelf MTM/Dahlback or MRC software and, I presume, this is written to prevent rod issues. The odd time somebody has done a custom remap and ended up wishing they had done their rods. But this is usually with a GT3071 or the like, not a KKK RS2 turbo.

What boost levels? A stock RS2 2 is what 1.5 bar? I think most generic maps then push this to 1.7-1.8 on overboost.

The U.K guys have had the RS2 running 1.8 bar at redline

Sal_S2 had 400bhp out his RS2 turbo and I believe SteveH was running 2 bar before his rods went banana's!

Just depends on the aggresiveness of the mapping really. But if the RS2 boost spike...............

I had an RS2 turbo for my Coupe and never installed it because I bought an Avant with a K26/K27 which IMO is good but not as good as the RS2 turbo.

Now the engine will be ripped out and a 2.5 stroker on a 3076R will be going in

[Robatron]

Suspension and brakes have been taken care of already on my old wagon. I am about to carry out a clutch change, is it possible to have an uprated/organic clutch fitted to a coupe like mine (MTM chip) in place awaiting for the RS2 parts to be fitted.

Just to clarify, can I have the uprated clutch fitted to my car now whilst pushing only 260 - 270bhp? If so how much can these clutches be picked up for?

[MattS2]

You dont need to buy an Rs2 ecu.

As far as I know, If you do a RS2 conversion you need a 3 Bar MAP sensor.
Bosch ones are not available anymore, so I had a choice.

One of these together with a generic ABY-RS2 remap. Roughly £200 + £250.

Or buy a complete RS2 ecu. Roughly £350.

The maths made sense to me.

Cheers
Matt.

[Jamo]

As far as I know, If you do a RS2 conversion you need a 3 Bar MAP sensor.
Bosch ones are not available anymore, so I had a choice.

One of these together with a generic ABY-RS2 remap. Roughly £200 + £250.

Or buy a complete RS2 ecu. Roughly £350.

The maths made sense to me.

Cheers
Matt.

Not really the standard RS2 map is naff for WGFV duty cycle below 3500rpm

The Homefry RS2 map is so far superior you'd be better off with the VMAP and generic homefry map.

The math may make sense but the performance won't.

[MattS2]

Duty cycle of the WGFV below 3.5k

Can you explain what this means in laymans terms please Jamo?
Do you mean that there will be little or no boost below 3.5k, then all hell breaks loose? :mischeif:

If you went for a Vmap and a RS2+ generic chip it would be cheaper, but having another ecu means that the car is still on the road and if necessary, can be returned to standard at a later date.
Admittedly I will have to get it chipped to realise the full potential but Im thinking of this as stage 2 of the upgrade.........Get used to RS2 power and iron out any problems first.

Cheers,
Matt.

[Jamo]

Duty cycle of the WGFV below 3.5k

Can you explain what this means in laymans terms please Jamo?
Do you mean that there will be little or no boost below 3.5k, then all hell breaks loose? :mischeif:

If you went for a Vmap and a RS2+ generic chip it would be cheaper, but having another ecu means that the car is still on the road and if necessary, can be returned to standard at a later date.
Admittedly I will have to get it chipped to realise the full potential but Im thinking of this as stage 2 of the upgrade.........Get used to RS2 power and iron out any problems first.

Cheers,
Matt.

You'll have no boost and then a load of boost around 3500 rpm. It will make the car feel very laggy.

With a MRC or Homefry you get a nice boost build below 3500 giving a progressive boost curve profile and it's not like an on off switch.