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got the car running on 1.1.81 today. It was very straight foreward upgrading from 1.1.27 to 1.1.81. Simply upload the firmware and then the config i have made offline.
Still must sort out the Accel enrichment issues and the idle ego correction that jumps between 0.85 and 1.15 all the time.
are you using the valve or not. if not is it fitted.
have you tried to use timing to balance the yo-yo idle.
i have similar at times. i think its fitted valve but disabled based. using a timing trough in the idle area helps a little here. have a see on the screen what timing figures occuron the high to low swing
Would you like to pot your engine specs and vemstune file?
I have 3B original engine (and I use with vems so far the original distributor ignition), original K24 7000 turbo, RS2 OM, my own made dual plenum reverse IM and bigger IC.
I do not have the resent conf rigth now, but I will post it tomorrow.
A month ago I did 12,6 @ 1/4 mile
well i failed in my 1.1.81 upgrade. i know the reason though. i didn't try.
i have now an almost complete 1.1.81 but i have spent some time twaqeking 1.1.23 this weekend. out of it i have got.
1. rock steady idle with no valve. basically some more vems config. i have played with ego, timing and fueling to achieve this.
2. better timing. changes to idle area and a few changes throughout. 1-2 degree extra up top. lots of spark fattning around the middle.
3. far better fueling. added a few bits but trimmed lots out of boosted areas. now i see 0.75-0.80 to 7500. a reduction in bogging down a little and a lovely clean rev.
it feels about 40hp improvement. no boost addition just better fueling and timing.
these changes will be pushed to 1.1.81 map. im happy with a pretty productive weekend.
well i failed in my 1.1.81 upgrade. i know the reason though. i didn't try.
i have now an almost complete 1.1.81 but i have spent some time twaqeking 1.1.23 this weekend. out of it i have got.
1. rock steady idle with no valve. basically some more vems config. i have played with ego, timing and fueling to achieve this.
2. better timing. changes to idle area and a few changes throughout. 1-2 degree extra up top. lots of spark fattning around the middle.
3. far better fueling. added a few bits but trimmed lots out of boosted areas. now i see 0.75-0.80 to 7500. a reduction in bogging down a little and a lovely clean rev.
it feels about 40hp improvement. no boost addition just better fueling and timing.
these changes will be pushed to 1.1.81 map. im happy with a pretty productive weekend.
How did you go about tuning the ignition yourself? this is the only thing I've yet to try ( I've already got Det / knock headphones setup from Repo )
Did you do it from logs or real time whilst driving?
what i do is real time driving with the headphones and 'feel' of the car, as sometimes the car will feel stiff before knocking. feeling stiff means you have exceeded the highest torque area that was usefull
i have always tuned ignition myself. never had any "expert" help on this ever. as i have posted in the past i started on subaru and some of their tuners are piss poor on timing. only way is to learn it myself.
before my tuning days i speent lots of time just reading books or looking into engines. a question i ask alot is do you know how an engine works. most people say yes. then i ask do you really know how it works? im no expert either.
no exact science at this time. i believe and im sure others will disagree on the methodology.that i have a very good ear for things tuning. in the old days they never had af gauges. they had det cans yes. carbs are tuned with a stephascope (spelling) for example. there is no set rule just guidlines. engines are good at saying what they like or dont like.
i do it half and half. when its somebody elses i do it real time. for differnet zones i have different methods.
for crusie and say upto 4k i do it realtime. i have laptop on passenger seat and pick a road with plenty of traffic lights. the stops allow tweaks. this way you get to see the pattern on the ve and spark table of the active cell. different drivers create different active cell patterns. basically styles of driving.
there tends to be a line also where no improvements occur and a fuzzyness starts to be induced. this is what i call the det line. retarding 1/2 a degree can be about right then.
reductino in egt is a good tell-tale. adding timing will reduce egt up to a point.
its a tough one. even with cans are we listening to the correct sound and can the listener be fast enough to save the engine?
when near happy i then datalog. then rollers for a second opinion. maybe not freom the operator but from the 40k + worth of equipment on rollers bay.
all i can say is feel the engine. mentaly pick out bits your not happy with and then log them. see what you see. you may find youyr not happy with a spot as it starts to spool for example. log that area. you may have a rich cell bogging it down.
IIRC repo did yours so id expect its pretty good. as you know the 80/20 rule applies here with mapping.
in summary i think ive added up to 2 degress up top, maybe 4 or 5 in some areas lower down to test esp around 3k ish and reduced around the idle zones to create more of a timing trough. i now idle about 950 and other than the 1 dip when i pull to a stop every now n again it just holds at 950 or so.
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