Modifying Motronic 2.3.2 ECU hardware and software.

[Carles20vt]

You are wrong. Please look at the target pressure maps.
Do some work before posting. We have had our share of people barge in here, who do not want to put in the effort, and we do not take too kindly to them...

I have checked with some colleges and they correct me. With 100% throttle opened, they blow 1,2 or so. Then it drops about 0,8b aprox in most cases (And I might modify it with soft maybe). Sorry for doing stupid questions... The problem was that I'm doing a 3B to ABY/ANN conversion these weeks and I can't check new AAN stock software by myself. So then I trusted with what I was told and was not correct. When I have all the electronics "ABY / AAN" working at my car and I get my own conclusions will take up the issue.

I will continue studying the firmware and hope to return with more appropriate questions.

Cheers,

[prj]

Thanks for you reply. But I think I haven't explained well or I have some misunderstanding.

If I'm not wrong, stock blows to 0,8bar and 1,2bar at over boost.

You are wrong. Please look at the target pressure maps.
Do some work before posting. We have had our share of people barge in here, who do not want to put in the effort, and we do not take too kindly to them...

[Carles20vt]

this is done in 3 seconds, no need for IDA and nope - you will not earn 260hp from that...

Thanks for you reply. But I think I haven't explained well or I have some misunderstanding.

If I'm not wrong, stock blows to 0,8bar and 1,2bar at over boost. I like to disable/hack over boost and then it will ever blows 1,2bar. I think you need to mod some ECU firmware to do it with software and isn't 3 seconds for noob like me

Next step would be remap to obtain 1,5bar but it will be next battle.

Thanks!!!

[blackS2]

Hi guys,

My first hit is use a standard AAN 551C code and unlock Overboost feature to use it all-time. It would give me about 260hp or so.

this is done in 3 seconds, no need for IDA and nope - you will not earn 260hp from that...

[Carles20vt]

Hi guys,

I'm starting to understand how Motronic works and modify something. I have a lot of homework to do, starting with understand all info that are here, etc.

I have some 8051 and 80535 manuals and schematics to understand a little how it works, learn assembler code etc. Thanks of some of them I’m designing a circuit to translate the latched addresses to use a normal EPROM/Flash.

My first hit is use a standard AAN 551C code and unlock Overboost feature to use it all-time. It would give me about 260hp or so.

I like to know what firmware I need to understand and study first to do these goal (Boost or Fuel). I think it’s only Boost and no need to modify Fuel. Is it true?

Also I like to know what is better to work understanding the disassembled code… I think making comments at project done with IDA. I have played a little and it’s amazing how it organize all functions etc. to study it.

Thanks in advance guys!

[domas]

OK thanks.

[vwnut8392]

Well I was lazy to create a new thread for that, this is somewhat related, but if prj would chime in it would be great.
http://www.s2central.net/motronic_pinout_3B.html pin 30
0V Reference Signal
Any explanation on that? How that is different from ground? Any short explanation of how it works?

I have suspicion that my 0v reference may be off.

i think its all in how its worded by the author of the web site. pin 30 is just the ground for all of those sensors.

[domas]

Well I was lazy to create a new thread for that, this is somewhat related, but if prj would chime in it would be great.
http://www.s2central.net/motronic_pinout_3B.html pin 30
0V Reference Signal
Any explanation on that? How that is different from ground? Any short explanation of how it works?

I have suspicion that my 0v reference may be off.

[Acki]

During those few seconds the engine runs like **** on 2.2T.

Ahh ok. During warm up I also let give the ecu a lambda 1 signal when I'm not wrong.
Don't know - must check it. :-D to not get a out of range DTC.

[Rikki Kitto]

Just had a quick flick through this thread again, nope, still really confused and now have headache Great work fellas, I think

[prj]

During those few seconds the engine runs like **** on 2.2T.

[Acki]

V8 uses the signal only when the water is warm. And with warm engine the heat up is done in seconds. No issues for me so far. :-)

[domas]

I see. That may be a problem I have myself then.

IMHO it should be considered as wb controllers that are not smart enough. It is strange that this function is not available out of the box.

[prj]

There will be no lambda codes. The ECU has no idea about the heater either.

The issue is there is a plausibility check done by the ECU before it considers the signal valid and O2 feedback control is enabled.
This plausibility check passes once the o2 heats up.

The issue with a simulated signal (besides it being imprecise usually) is the fact that the plausibility check passes instantly, and the ECU starts using it right away, even while the wideband is still heating up.
Because while it is heating the simulated signal is usually stuck on one value, the ECU rapidly either fully leans out or fully enriches the mixture and the car runs like **** until the wideband heats up.

To solve this issue, I put in a timer into the ECU software, which introduces a fixed delay after engine start before the plausibility check is allowed to pass.

[domas]

I know the only thing i'll probably hear is crickets on this but does anyone know how to disable the lambda sensor heater circuit weather it be in the ECU code or via a resistor? im going to run an innovative LC-1 wideband now and use one of the analog outputs to feed the ECU from that since the analog outputs are fully configurable in the LC-1.

In my 200 20v, there is no such code for lambda heating circuit failure as there is in V8. Mine is heated from ignition directly, from FP relay iirc.

What I have done (even though it should not matter in my case) I am feeding the main voltage supply to WB controller from original lambda heating circuit. My reason for that is that I wanted everything as plug and play as possible - i.e. there are 3 wires going to WB controller now from original lambda connectors (heating circuit for powering WB, and emulated NB return wire from WB controller)

As WB has to be heated as well, there is load on the circuit. Would that possibly work for you? Or is the heating output not constant 12v in your case..?

As far as I understand the only concern is lambda fault code that you want to get rid of, right?