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link only works as good as its positioning and wiring.
as prj says.
fancy Christmas tree box
id have a quid by the time you see the knocklink light up and you step off the gas the damage is done.
you are little bit wrong... thats not the knock link unit... it should be used with headphones.. and has an output for dataloging
what wiring? D it's separate unit.. what cristmas tree.. **** prj has something bad with his head D in his opinion everything is **** except these tools which a he using
what wiring? D it's separate unit.. what cristmas tree.. **** prj has something bad with his head D in his opinion everything is **** except these tools which a he using
Mapped 1 car and you throw around insults, good job.
That one is waste of money as well. I don't need a filter to hear knock. In fact I prefer not to have a filter, as there are secondary and tertiary frequencies, which the filter will filter out.
But you wouldn't know anything about that, or you are just deaf.
its a fancy knocklink with ecu feed now. as link in the past and im presuming present has poor knock control and detection. im not trying to detract from the unit you use. we all have our own ideas and preference. the important thing is we get the results needed.
to try to defuse the issue I think what prj is saying is why spend a few hundred on a commercial unit when a simple home made device will do the same.
where the sensior connects and how is untilately just as important I feel. maybe im wrong but im pretty sure the bosch mics were designed to fit over a cylinder water jacket to ensure that gearbox and genral noises were nbot picked up.
if we use a different sensor to the engine how can we be sure knock detection and ignition suppression are working properly?
Mapped 1 car and you throw around insults, good job.
That one is waste of money as well. I don't need a filter to hear knock. In fact I prefer not to have a filter, as there are secondary and tertiary frequencies, which the filter will filter out.
But you wouldn't know anything about that, or you are just deaf.
1. that's the only car you can know friends car who I have helped
2. I agree link knock block and knock box are overpriced, but they are working pretty good.
3. you forgot to mention headphones for knock listening should have ANC or ANR active noise cancellation or active noise reduction, that's ~100 pounds cheapest ones. other way you would listen rattling tappets.
4. Are you hearing dog barking in neighbors yard with your microphone or any other frequencies??
5. bmw running 9.34 maped by me http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...gCrIMdU#t=156s
6. audi s4 running 10.8
3. you forgot to mention headphones for knock listening should have ANC or ANR active noise cancellation or active noise reduction, that's ~100 pounds cheapest ones. other way you would listen rattling tappets.
No, you don't need that.
Noise cancellation is for outside noise only. And Bose stuff helps nothing with that, it's good on a plane, not good on a car engine that constantly changes sound.
Tappets you can hear, and it's fine, they don't make anything similar to knock sound.
For headphones, you just need good passive noise insulation.
4. Are you hearing dog barking in neighbors yard with your microphone or any other frequencies??
Of course not. Microphone is cemented - so it does not pick up ANY outside noise.
Clearly you have not tried this.
All I see is a car going for 1/4 mile in a straight line.
It takes little skill to map that. You can throw away your VEMS, put a carburetor on those cars, and they will still make pretty much the same time. The skill is in making the car drive perfectly off the track in changing conditions.
I am sure if I take either of those cars to siberia for a winter, they will fail to start
No, you don't need that.
Noise cancellation is for outside noise only. And Bose stuff helps nothing with that, it's good on a plane, not good on a car engine that constantly changes sound.
Tappets you can hear, and it's fine, they don't make anything similar to knock sound.
For headphones, you just need good passive noise insulation.
Of course not. Microphone is cemented - so it does not pick up ANY outside noise.
Clearly you have not tried this.
All I see is a car going for 1/4 mile in a straight line.
It takes little skill to map that. You can throw away your VEMS, put a carburetor on those cars, and they will still make pretty much the same time. The skill is in making the car drive perfectly off the track in changing conditions.
I am sure if I take either of those cars to siberia for a winter, they will fail to start
I'm sure you are little bit retarded... so I should put car video like i'm starting it on -40 degrees? or cruising and showing lamda values for you? or calculating fuel consuption?? YOU said I have tuned one car.. I said you are wrong... that's all.
"Of course not. Microphone is cemented - so it does not pick up ANY outside noise.
Clearly you have not tried this."
I'll confess to being an amature mapper learning on my own car fitted with 034efi. As you might guess knock detection is my biggest concern also (it isnt a feature of the ECU). I tried the listening method using a device for the hard of hearing with an extended mic cable routed into the engine bay but there was so much racket going on I wouldn't know knock if it bit me on the ear. I didnt have the JB weld and shielded wire though so might give it another whirl. PRJ - If you do have the time to submit a recording off the noise of knock on an I5 it would be most appreciated.
Just to be clear - is the mic JB welded on the back of the clip somewhere and the teeth of the clip used to hold it onto the engine, so the noise is transferred through the metal clip?
I also have a SAAB APC box running a knock light on the dash but anything past about 4500 rpm and it flashes regardless. I have read a lot of reviews on various knock boxes and this seems to be the case that the aren't reliable at higher revs, hence wanting to use my ears instead.
prj and others may be able to advise but det cans as I know them are best used and they consist of headphones and bolting to the block a mic of some sort.
in order to get the best from the engine you need to fine tune the timing using the required knowledge and skill.
to be honest I just used my albeit in comparison limited experience and tuned my s2 without. think I peaked timing about 40 degrees and had 20 or so at 2 bar. IIRC
there are general rules about taking a degree or so for every psi of boost but they are generalisations.
understanding what an engine wants is key before you start tuning.
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D it's separate unit.. what cristmas tree.. **** prj has something bad with his head 
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