HELP!!Replaced the Bomb!!Now LOUD NOISE.Power Steering PUMP??!

[s2dude]

sorry to repost this BUT//



Anyone have ANY ideas on why the DAMN light is still on???!!!!!

[peteV6TDI]

have you checked the brake fluid level?

[s2dude]

have you checked the brake fluid level?

Yeah. Cheers Pete. Brake fluid level is to the top marker
could it be a faulty warning light sensor or something??

or//

could a faulty servo cause this?

anyone>??

[PeterS]

S2 Dude...when you replace the oring on the cap of the hydraulic pump ( you may need to use a hammer and chisel on the edge of the X to get it started, or try something that is called a "drag link socket" here in the states ( looks like a glorified big screwdriver bit) Make sure that you lubricate the replacement o ring with some grease, the pentosin hydraulic fluid will not adequately lubricate the o ring and prevent it from distorting when you re install it...btw, if you can find a generic source for the o rings, ask for a P/N 2-018 Nitrile O-ring (about $0.20 USD).

As to the source of the "!"..you will need to investigate further where the cable that you showed in the picture attaches and report back..

[s2dude]

S2 Dude...when you replace the oring on the cap of the hydraulic pump ( you may need to use a hammer and chisel on the edge of the X to get it started, or try something that is called a "drag link socket" here in the states ( looks like a glorified big screwdriver bit) Make sure that you lubricate the replacement o ring with some grease, the pentosin hydraulic fluid will not adequately lubricate the o ring and prevent it from distorting when you re install it...btw, if you can find a generic source for the o rings, ask for a P/N 2-018 Nitrile O-ring (about $0.20 USD).

As to the source of the "!"..you will need to investigate further where the cable that you showed in the picture attaches and report back..

Thanks for that info Peter...

Ok. Ive tried massively to get that cross head screw out but it isn't having any of it at the moment
It appears that it has been painted over and I'm pretty sure heat sealed in there

Reason I say this is because the whole pump is black in colour and the crosshead has definately been included in the paint job....(maybe replaced or refurbed some time ago?)

Anyway....Ive hammer and chiselled it....then when that didnt work I moved on to the big guns and got my impact driver out

After many repeated accurate hits using a 10mm flat bit (biggest I have and crossheads waaaay too small) the thing would NOT budge.....

Sooo frustrating and to top it all I have even twisted the impact drivers 10mm bit at each end

This is getting REALLY ANNOYING!!!!!
though Im not sure if I even have to change the o ring as it only seemed to leak when I had the fluid too low yesterday after I had got the system back together with the new bomb....it seems dry as a bone there now but if I can I want to change the thing anyway....but HOW????

I was thinking last resort getting some heat on it and then using the impact driver again??

but I dont want to risk screwing my hydraulic pump if as it seems hopefully it may be fine!!!!

Ideas please folks......im almost out of them...

//also/// any idea how I can test the hydrauilic level indicator switch please guys? (I assume just disconnecting it will mean the light stays on?)
Ive got a multimeter but am pretty novice when it comes to electrics so tips appreciated

[s2dude]

anyone??!

[robinm]

s2dude,

No clue about removing the plug I'm afraid, but...

I had the red ! mark since I bought the car. The PAS pump was a bit noisy (and I could pump the pedal about 30 times), so I thought it must be the PAS pump. I hadn't seen Grahams write up so I got a recond pump from audi for nearly 300 euro. Fitted it and I still get the red !...

You can test the servo, as described in s2central, by undoing the pipe at the top rear of the servo and see if fluid is leaking past the seals. You have to remove the brakefluid reservoir and then undo the pipe behind. I couldn't undo the nut though as it was too close to the bulk head and too tight. I think you should try though.

You could also get audi to check the flow rate and pressure output from the pump.

Not much help I'm afraid, but I think you need to systematically go through the system. I need to do this too when I get time as I don't want to get a new bomb if my servo is knackered. A servo replacement looks as if it would be a complete pain.. - dashboard out i think....

[Graham]

To test the PAS bottle float switch use a multi meter set on resistance touching on the contacts where the cable plugs into the cap, in the middle of the cap is a little dimple which if your fluid level is correct should be up. press the dimple down and this simulates low fluid, i cannot remember if it is a normaly open or normaly closed switch, but pressing the dimple should tell you. if its faulty, pressing the dimple will make no difference what so ever to the readings on the meter. The meter should either go from 1 to a really low number (1 is no circuit made) the 001-025 means there is a circuit i.e. the switch has made contact.

[s2dude]

s2dude,

No clue about removing the plug I'm afraid, but...

I had the red ! mark since I bought the car. The PAS pump was a bit noisy (and I could pump the pedal about 30 times), so I thought it must be the PAS pump. I hadn't seen Grahams write up so I got a recond pump from audi for nearly 300 euro. Fitted it and I still get the red !...

You can test the servo, as described in s2central, by undoing the pipe at the top rear of the servo and see if fluid is leaking past the seals. You have to remove the brakefluid reservoir and then undo the pipe behind. I couldn't undo the nut though as it was too close to the bulk head and too tight. I think you should try though.

You could also get audi to check the flow rate and pressure output from the pump.

Not much help I'm afraid, but I think you need to systematically go through the system. I need to do this too when I get time as I don't want to get a new bomb if my servo is knackered. A servo replacement looks as if it would be a complete pain.. - dashboard out i think....

Thanks for this info mate
I will be doing the servo test on my car tonight and wil post back my findings....

graham//

Thanks for that!!
I will do the continuity test and also a piece of wire across the two terminals of the wire pre switch to see what gives with a definate low fluid warning condition which I think is what this will imitate.....(dont expect anything new to show up or light to go out tho but hey!!)
unfortunately....I read on s2central that a short in the cable will not show up as a warning light so no false positives it said?!
Going to also check my brake fluid switch and servo tonight,,,,

then to the hydraulic pump tests....(and possible rebuild using your ace guide Graham )

[the pirate]

mystery wire

The wire hanging down from the rear suspension is the abs sensor for the brakes.
Not sure, but I would imagine that having this disconnected would throw up the ! mark on the auto check.
Does your brake pedal go boing when braking by any chance?. As this would cause your problems.
These sensors are very expensive to buy new, so look on eBay to obtain a replacement.
The rear ones on the quattro's have a very long lead on them, as they are connected under the rear seat. You can use a front or a rear sensor to replace them, you just need to cut off the wire on the old sensor where it is housed inside the vehicle box section, sometimes re position the rubber grommets etc. on the lead, then solder the old wire to a new sensor,and fit some heat shrink sleeve over the joint.
You will probably find that the sensor is well and truly rusted into the wheel hub, necessitating it's complete destruction to remove.
Hope this helps.

[Graham]

There isnt much point in doing the pump overhaul if there isnt much play, do a quick check, if you have a DTI then its easy and accurate, undo the belt off the pump, push the shaft in, zero the DTI and pull it out, if there is more than .6mm of play then it might be worth doing, but dont fix it if it aint broke. Checked mine the other week and i have .48mm and no noise so i will leave it another year before i re-check it. I do have some spare thrust washers somewhere as i made about a dozen of them, but i have since moved to OZ and they could be anywhere in my garage.

[s2dude]

The wire hanging down from the rear suspension is the abs sensor for the brakes.
Not sure, but I would imagine that having this disconnected would throw up the ! mark on the auto check.
Does your brake pedal go boing when braking by any chance?. As this would cause your problems.
These sensors are very expensive to buy new, so look on eBay to obtain a replacement.
The rear ones on the quattro's have a very long lead on them, as they are connected under the rear seat. You can use a front or a rear sensor to replace them, you just need to cut off the wire on the old sensor where it is housed inside the vehicle box section, sometimes re position the rubber grommets etc. on the lead, then solder the old wire to a new sensor,and fit some heat shrink sleeve over the joint.
You will probably find that the sensor is well and truly rusted into the wheel hub, necessitating it's complete destruction to remove.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for hte reply pirate
iirc I read on s2central or somewhere that pre 92 cars did not have teh ABS wired into the engines OBD system meaning that it was not involved in the fault checking circuitry??
Correct me if Im wrong anyone but my 3b is a 91 model.....
Also.....Vagcom shows no codes to say faulty ABS or ABS sensor dragging on floor!!
I will take your advice on getting a new one fitted though mate and if I can source one form ebay (or here?!) than that will be spot on....
Its high on my list of jobs (long list!!)

////////////////////////////////////////////////

Graham

Thanks for yet more excellent advice......Im going out to check the end float later tonight (when Ic an drag myself down to the garage!) as I have a digital gauge and now amn armed with a pretty accurate tolerance.

Hopefully it will be ok but if not...??
I may need to get a new thrust washer made up somewhere (or buy one ideally)
Cheers