S2 Hub seems to be not on fully?! Hub refitment/hub removal advice please!!!

[s2dude]

As a follow on to my previous thread re my disc fitment issues it seems after much measuring and checking that the Caliper Carrier Lugs are in tact and fine and that the problem lies with my hub not being fitted properly.......

or not on far enough to allow proper brake disc location in realtion to the caliper carrier

I have not had this assembly apart before (Yet!!!) so can anyone enlighten me on the best way forward here please

Could the hub be "loose" and does the main 27mm nut actually tighten the hub on to the bearing housing?? Is it possible it is not seated properly due to a loose nut?

no visible play in the hub and bearing seems fine. Im yet to try and further tighten the big nut as I dont have a 200nm capable torque wrench

Suggestions welcomed p[lease guys

the gap from the rear face of the hub to the actual bearing housing is 1.8mm greater than ther "good" side. This is causing me all sorts of problems with fitting brakes and caliper etc as the disc is located nearly 2mm out of its correct position.

the hub is on square and the measurement is the same on all points of it.

[twoqu]

Hi again!

Get the correct value for the hub bolt!
I have some info for other Audi models and it looks as though you need an additional 90 degree on top of the torque value.

[twoqu]

Here you go! From Paul N site!


Torque Settings (from OFRM via Erwin)

Hub Nut (M16) : 200Nm plus 90 degrees - vehicle MUST be standing on its wheels

[s2dude]

Hi again!

Get the correct value for the hub bolt!
I have some info for other Audi models and it looks as though you need an additional 90 degree on top of the torque value.

Thanks for both replies mate...

Does this look anything like when your driveshaft circlip came out? or do you reckon it needs tightening correctly?

The gap is equal all the way around and Im wondering if the bolt is not fullt tight could this cause the hub to sit "out" a couple of mm from the correct location?

Going to put the wheels on first thing tomorrow afternoon when Im back home and try torqueing the bolt up to the correct specs

Hope this will cure it??!

Surely if the bearing was naffed there would be play in the hub? and it would not turn freely......?

[twoqu]

Try tightening it first, correctly!
Other than that it would have been useful to have a comparision shot of the correct side. Or if you took a measurement from the other side of the gap between the hub carrier and the hub as a reference. I know its more work but at least you have a correct side to use. If the corresponding gap is less on the otherside then it would look as though the hub is not fully seated.
Not that I am a conspiracy theorist but.. clean the rear of the hub face of and see whether there are any p/n on there!

[s2dude]

Try tightening it first, correctly!
Other than that it would have been useful to have a comparision shot of the correct side. Or if you took a measurement from the other side of the gap between the hub carrier and the hub as a reference. I know its more work but at least you have a correct side to use. If the corresponding gap is less on the otherside then it would look as though the hub is not fully seated.
Not that I am a conspiracy theorist but.. clean the rear of the hub face of and see whether there are any p/n on there!

Im going to mate tomorrow!!

But until then.....heres the pics I should have posted to start. sorry about that.


Also. I may not have explained it corretly but I have measured the other side (LOTS!!)
The gap on the other side is 1.76mm LESS than the BAD side (I think its just under 1mm gap for the good side but the 1.76 mm difference between good side and bad side is spot on)

Firstly the "good" side



and the bad side (same scale...distance etc)



Heres to hoping its incorrectly torqued?!!! found my 250nm torque wrench so I will find out tomorrow

[Corey]

The actual value (ignoring the 90 degree part) is 280Nm, if you are not happy doing the 90 degree bit?

[s2dude]

The actual value (ignoring the 90 degree part) is 280Nm, if you are not happy doing the 90 degree bit?

Ah. Great stuff.

Thanks Corey. I will be ok with the 90 degree bit though...got an angle torque thingermebob and Im not afraid to use it

[caterpillar]

YOU CANT TAIGHTEN THE HUB TO THE BEARING!!!!!. the big nut or the umbrako in the senter arent for the bearing,but the for the propshaft outer joint ONLY.
BUT there are 3 different hubs......i think you have to reapair the bearing,or check if the bearing are comin loose or something.

[s2dude]

YOU CANT TAIGHTEN THE HUB TO THE BEARING!!!!!. the big nut or the umbrako in the senter arent for the bearing,but the for the propshaft outer joint ONLY.
BUT there are 3 different hubs......i think you have to reapair the bearing,or check if the bearing are comin loose or something.

MMm I feared this
SO your saying that if this bolt is not torqued correctly then it will make no difference to the fitment of my hub???

Well what does tighten the hub up then??!


Mmm....I better strip it all down like you say and take a look at the bearing


THANKS

[Greg_S]

dont forget when you change the centre bolt you will need a new one since they are stretch bolts.

[s2dude]

dont forget when you change the centre bolt you will need a new one since they are stretch bolts.

Thanks Greg...

I didnt know that!!!!

Is there any howto's that anyone knows of for this procedure...
As in a front wheel bearing how to ??

Cheers

[caterpillar]

there are no clip or ringclip who hold the bearing in the hub!! check out the P/N of the senter,there are at least 3 P/N and different height on theese,I KNOW when i have rebuild the 32b sync/quantum in the front.....and 280mm brakes and twopeace strut.

[twoqu]

Hi!
Well that pic does seems to confirm that the hub is not fully seated.
So there are a few possibilities.
The wheel bearing is shot. The cv is effectively pulled against the bearing by the hub so if one or both of the races are kaput then it will not be preloaded.
Another possibility is that at some time a bearing replacement has not been done correctly. It is essential that when re installing the hub that the inner race is supported. Effectively once installed the hub should be fully home. The bolts retains it, it shouldn't be used to pull the hub onto its race.
Greg has flagged up an interesting point. It does look as though the bolt being a torque to yield needs replacement. If it has been re used then there is the possibility that it has been stretched. Unfortunately you will need to make a comparsion with a new one to determine that!
Bearing replacement ideally needs a press with at least 15 ton capacity. Basically you press the hub out from the back. If you are lucky the inner race will stay in the bearing. If you are unlucky it will still be on the hub. So will need removing from the hub with a puller.
The main body of the bearing can then be pressed out.
The new bearing can be pressed in. When reinstalling the hub you can either suport the inner race from behind and press the hub back in or do the reverse.

[s2dude]

Hi!
Well that pic does seems to confirm that the hub is not fully seated.
So there are a few possibilities.
The wheel bearing is shot. The cv is effectively pulled against the bearing by the hub so if one or both of the races are kaput then it will not be preloaded.
Another possibility is that at some time a bearing replacement has not been done correctly. It is essential that when re installing the hub that the inner race is supported. Effectively once installed the hub should be fully home. The bolts retains it, it shouldn't be used to pull the hub onto its race.
Greg has flagged up an interesting point. It does look as though the bolt being a torque to yield needs replacement. If it has been re used then there is the possibility that it has been stretched. Unfortunately you will need to make a comparsion with a new one to determine that!
Bearing replacement ideally needs a press with at least 15 ton capacity. Basically you press the hub out from the back. If you are lucky the inner race will stay in the bearing. If you are unlucky it will still be on the hub. So will need removing from the hub with a puller.
The main body of the bearing can then be pressed out.
The new bearing can be pressed in. When reinstalling the hub you can either suport the inner race from behind and press the hub back in or do the reverse.

THanks a lot guys

ok. I tried torqueing the bolt correctly earlier and it was not even 100 nm as I used my torque wrench set at this level to undo. It didnt click once so it was very loose.

As exepected it did nada torqueing it up to the correct spec of 200nm and 90 degrees :mischeif:

So Ive stripped the hub down as advised

Just having a bite to eat and wil post the pics of hub findings