scary high speed moment

[rj scotty]

CV joints from GSF are circa £40.

I believe they are made by GKN so should be decent (ish) quality.

Problem is we all have 8 of them

[s2_wot]

Why ? The rear being locked would not cause the car to do anything drastic, just scrub the tires a bit in the corners.
The fact that he was on the gas at the time would mean the diff lock could not be engaged, you have to back off for the diff lock to engage and the electronic lockout would have to be disabled also as he was above 15mph me thinks.

Say at 70Mph you're on the motorway and there's a camber in the road or you're taking a slight turn; both are fairly insignifigant but IF somehow the diff did lock then you could expect the thing to go anywhere. Loads of cars have that 15mph thing bypassed. You'd scrub the tyres at low speed, but at high speed the car could give a dramatic shunt. Just thinking out loud.

[driftin jo]

Say at 70Mph you're on the motorway and there's a camber in the road or you're taking a slight turn; both are fairly insignifigant but IF somehow the diff did lock then you could expect the thing to go anywhere. Loads of cars have that 15mph thing bypassed. You'd scrub the tyres at low speed, but at high speed the car could give a dramatic shunt. Just thinking out loud.

if you read the first post you will see it was the steering wheel that was pulled to the right that caused this so either way it is nothing to do with the diff lock in this case.
As I said before if you are accelerating even a 10mph the diff will not engage until you back off the power even if the switch is pushed , you have to back off the gas to allow it to engage physically not electronically

[4WheelDrifter]

It doesn't mean it's not being picked up.
It's enough if one wheel rotates slower than all the others to get an ABS fault.

Really? You know this to be true? Or are you talking out of your áss?

I've had false ABS triggers on my S2 under braking, due to dirty ABS wheel sensors before, but there was no ABS fault light.

I've also had an ABS sensor reading intermittently low, with or without the brakes applied, showing on Vag-Com, but again no light. Although admittedly on something newer and more sophisticated than an S2/RS2.

[Acidburn]

I've had false ABS triggers on my S2 under braking, due to dirty ABS wheel sensors before, but there was no ABS fault light.

I had abs issue's with no abs light due to the bomb going bad, this was on my 20v q sport tho.

[prj]

Really? You know this to be true? Or are you talking out of your áss?

I've had false ABS triggers on my S2 under braking, due to dirty ABS wheel sensors before, but there was no ABS fault light.

I've also had an ABS sensor reading intermittently low, with or without the brakes applied, showing on Vag-Com, but again no light. Although admittedly on something newer and more sophisticated than an S2/RS2.

The way the ABS ECU works is comparing all the sensor inputs (one for each wheel!) if there is a significant deviation from normal operation, you'll instantly get a fault.
Try lifting the car up, getting the wheels moving and then holding down a wheel - it'll turn on.
Also, try lifting the car up, then accelerating - due to some differences and friction the wheels will be at different speeds, again the abs light will illuminate.

I have actually tested this on my own car

[4WheelDrifter]

I currently have my own car up in the air with the wheels off of the ground, but it's not quite in a condition to be able to test it, so I'll have to trust you on that one. You know that I was taking the piss with my questioning.

So that confirms that the OP's problem is related to CV joint speed, not an ABS problem.

[Rusty]

With regards to driving with the ABS unplugged.

Not having ABS is not dangerous, it's a nice to have seafety feature but only really provides better braking on a wet road or when taking avoliding action under emergency braking, under most other circumstances it's benefit is negligable or sometimes it's even a hinderance (snow for example). However, any brake bias function that the ABS performs can make the car unstable when braking, as a certain Mihnea will testify from his S4 experience. Just take it carefully and build up to any high speed testing / hard braking so that you know what is going to happen if you have to brake suddenly and harshly.

With regards to any fault, it's an odd one alright. Sounds like it could be any of the options touted above and that's a PITA for you. If the wheel is binding then you'd expect some uneven heat to be generated from the binding friction, this might be of some help to identify a possible cause after the event. Other than that, sounds like you'll have to take it steady until all is sorted... Good luck with it.

What about the handbrake shoes binding on one side, perhaps the mechanism is sticking and the increased friction is causing a full-on application? Uneven rear brakes can cause the car to do as you describe, especially if it's an efficient system, I found this out when testing a handbrake on a previous car as I thought it was uneven, the car lurched to one side but obviously I was doing the testing in a controlled environment... sort of

[4WheelDrifter]

ABS doesn't control bias. Mihnea's incident was because his ESP was broken. I've experienced that in the S3, which also has the dreaded ESP. I currently have the ABS fuse out of the Lupo. No problem with bias there, and the back end must weigh about 50kg.

[WabTheKing]

From experience anything binding that much creates a noticeable amount of heat or just makes the most awful smell in the world, worth a thought tho

[WabTheKing]

Back on the ESP thing, I had an early TT which was one of the first in the uk, altho was LHD, because it was an import it missed the update from audi meaning it still had the ESP program that famously was putting TT's on there roof!! Was undriveable at speed in the wet with it turned on,

[s2_wot]

if you read the first post you will see it was the steering wheel that was pulled to the right that caused this so either way it is nothing to do with the diff lock in this case.
As I said before if you are accelerating even a 10mph the diff will not engage until you back off the power even if the switch is pushed , you have to back off the gas to allow it to engage physically not electronically

I accept that logic, not the 1st time I've made a implausible suggestion

[n32tpd]

solution?

This sounds very dangerous and frightening!! If you value your life I have An old w reg mondeo estate that drives ok, would it not be wise to swap me and keep safe??? I could be your very own crash test dummy!! .......no? Oh well.....can't blame me for tryin as its the only way i'd ever get my lard a#$e in an rs2!!! (Legally anyway) sorry I can't give any usefull help but can't sleep and road wars has finished on sky1!!!! Good luck with your problem,

[Rusty]

ABS doesn't control bias. Mihnea's incident was because his ESP was broken. I've experienced that in the S3, which also has the dreaded ESP. I currently have the ABS fuse out of the Lupo. No problem with bias there, and the back end must weigh about 50kg.

OK, that's fine, better to post and be corrected on something like this, wouldn't want someone to end up going backwards at 100mph!

Mondeo swap does seem the most logical solution at the moment (cheque in the post?)

[pixsaudisex2]

What about diffs etc,