Brake Lines For 996 Upgrade - *URGENT*

[steverrquattro]

Been away for a few days and hence the desperate post to get this organised ASAP. Thanks for the replies as well.

Below are the 996's I have, but they have no hard lines with them. I've looked at a mates brake conversion and all he has is the custom made hoses from Corey.

I'm going to call round a few places to see which is the best way to go i.e. hardlines and OE brake lines or custom made brake lines.

[djh]

merlin motorsport at combe should have the dimensions on file as they've made them for a few s2forum members over the years.

[DJones]

Steve

As discussed mine are standard 10v braided lines that go straight into the back of the calipers..

I will look for the spares i have and drop you a pm...

Darren.

[Error404]

I hope where that hard line joins the flexi that the flexi is held fixed in place by something, if not then the hard line could be moving slightly when you go from lock to lock and this could work harden it and it will snap off !

A valid point, but the lower section of flexi is not really neccessary, it doesn't actually flex in use, (remember it can be replaced by the RS2 hardline)

[driftin jo]

A valid point, but the lower section of flexi is not really neccessary, it doesn't actually flex in use, (remember it can be replaced by the RS2 hardline)

That's only true if it goes to the strut, from the pic you can't tell if it does or not,
I have seen plenty that go straight to the body

[steverrquattro]

Steve

As discussed mine are standard 10v braided lines that go straight into the back of the calipers..

I will look for the spares i have and drop you a pm...

Darren.

Cheers Darren. That sounds like a much easier route especially given the timescales.

Apparently the Goodrich hoses can take up to 10 days!

[Error404]

I have seen plenty that go straight to the body

yup, you'd be mental to do that as you quite rightly said

[URquattroGus]

Has anyone fitted 986 rear or similar calipers to the rear of one of these cars yet? Presumably in addition to the standard handbrake caliper.

I reckon it's possible with the right bracket and disc.

Let me know what you think of the front brakes when on Steve, they were a good improvement on mine, but far from the ultimate package (does master cylinder/assist circuit and prop valve need to be looked at for upgrades)

All of the above components have been renewed on my car.

[DJones]

Angus

The better the brakes are up front the less effective the rears need to be due to shifting mass.

Little point spending money on bigger rears especially on a ur as the rear is very light to start with. If you did up grade you would definitely need to play with a proportioning vale of some sorts, there is nothing worse than your foot brake acting like a handbrake...

Darren.

[URquattroGus]

Angus

The better the brakes are up front the less effective the rears need to be due to shifting mass.

Little point spending money on bigger rears especially on a ur as the rear is very light to start with. If you did up grade you would definitely need to play with a proportioning vale of some sorts, there is nothing worse than your foot brake acting like a handbrake...

Darren.

I've heard this agrument many a time and can see the logic, but I'm still not certain that bigger rears would not be worthwhile. Just look at high performance modern road cars and what they have on the rear...

I agree that the propotioining valve would need replaceing/be out if this was done.

Our ultimate stopping power is limited to the grip offered by the tyre contact patch.

I'm not necessarily trying to improve just outright stopping power, but to a greater degree "feel" and modulation.

Maybe my pads (yellowstuff) are worth changing for one thing.

Is there not an argument also that by upgrading the fronts we are changing the brake bias to be more front biased, and starting to underbrake the rear axle.

[DJones]

I've heard this agrument many a time and can see the logic, but I'm still not certain that bigger rears would not be worthwhile. Just look at high performance modern road cars and what they have on the rear...

I agree that the propotioining valve would need replaceing/be out if this was done.

Our ultimate stopping power is limited to the grip offered by the tyre contact patch.

I'm not necessarily trying to improve just outright stopping power, but to a greater degree "feel" and modulation.

Maybe my pads (yellowstuff) are worth changing for one thing.

Is there not an argument also that by upgrading the fronts we are changing the brake bias to be more front biased, and starting to underbrake the rear axle.

Feel is a different thing and can be achieved as you say with different pad material.

Modern high performance cars have much better weight distribution than the good old ur.. hence brakes are a little more balanced in size.

I agree that the work we have both carried out would have already upset the ballance but in truth i dont think the 996 give better ultimate stopping power than the G60's (given ur's are that bit lighter) but the 996's do stand up to heat better with less fade.

So all in all the ballance is still ok.

Give it ago and let us know how you get on.

Regards,

Darren.

[steverrquattro]

I'm having problems with this. When the wheel is bolted back on there is a gap inbetween the wheel hub and the wheel itself. In summary the weight of the wheel is supported by the five bolts and does not fit centrally on the main hub. Also there is the fact that the studs are hardly in as well!

Is there some machining work to do here?

NB Very tight deadline as supposed to be going to Scotland in the morning.

As always, help and advice, very much appreciated.

A few pics. that will help with what I'm talking about.

[driftin jo]

You need some spigot rings to take up the gap between the wheel an hub

[driftin jo]

like these http://www.google.co.uk/search?pq=yo...og&sa=N&tab=wi

[steverrquattro]

You need some spigot rings to take up the gap between the wheel an hub

I also thought that, but the wheel bolts will still be too short and everyone I know who has done this has used the original bolts which are approx. 47mm end to end.

Just spoke to my mate who has the same set-up and his wheel slides around 5mm over the hub and therefore he does not have any spigot rings?

I beginning to think it's the discs that are somehow different