Poor Brakes.

[Ian Simmonds]

i think the answer would be to get another. s2 owner to drive your car to give an indication if yours are functioning as they should. i don't recall mine being that bad they were better than i expected given all the bad press. however they are not up to the job of stopping the car when pushed.
i did the big brake upgrade and personally believe it was the single best mod i have done so far. kw coil over being the second.

I'd agree with this... Our Avant is on standard discs and pads and will trigger ABS quite happily if I jump on it.... It'll happily do high speed stuff too, even a gentle ’play' on Castle Combe with the family and a roofbox...

Bottom line is, the standard brakes are fine for most work, but once heat soak starts, they're cream-crackered... Our experience is that new OEM are fine, but as they wear, and if they're pushed, they warp... Which requires full renewal... Standard S2 brakes are fine, but, BUT, when pushing on, do not cook them.... 'in, brake, off, cool'.... Don't 'wash' speed, brake and release.... brake and release....

That all said, in 2013, they're not exactly an inspiring set-up for a heavy car with S2 performance..

[andy10v]

I suspect you have an issue somewhere.

The standard S2 brakes are not great for enthusiastic driving as they fade quickly, however they will easily lock the wheels. All my B3/B4 80/90, ABY S2 and 3B S2 have been able to lock the brakes, but not put up with repeated high speed braking.

[GazzaG60]

id say pad type and quality will effect lock as bite has a big factor here. also if they are new pads on older discs the pad difference from the prior set may be a factor.

I don't thing locking is a good indication. if you have stock wheels its easier to lock than bigger ones as are skinhead tyres.

my opinion is they are just adequate for the heavy s2 as a day to day car.

[Henkjan]

boxter calipers and 312mm discs will fit 16" wheels?

depends on the wheels, Avus usually fits, OEM 5 spoke S2 wheels don't. using a spacer to move the wheel a bit to the outside might help here

[Mikes2]

The only other parts of the system are the hydraulic pump, servo and bomb.

The bomb is really a reserve pressure reservoir for engine failure situations but can cause strange issues when they fail

[s2driveruk]

avoid mintex m1144 pads on standard setup...they are crap....and expensive. I tried alsorts of different variations of standard on my coupe over the years. Pagid and zimmermans were the best IMO...

To be honest, I wouldn't swap my 996/s8/ds2500 setup for anything. In good condition, they will really haul up a heavy S2 time and again and with no real fade if fluid is in good shape. Doing the same on a standard setup resulted in a caliper fire

[Jaydee]

Hi, just revisiting this. Brakes are still an issue on the car. I have had the ''bomb'' replaced, new brake master cylinder, reconditioned front callipers, new Pagid front disks and pads (x 2). The only parts not replaced are the brake lines (all look fine), and the ABS unit. The problem I am now getting is sticking front calliper - no rhyme or reason to which side. The car recently failed it's MOT due to badly worn front disks and pads. New Pagid disks and pads fitted and front callipers freed up - all OK for a while. Car not be used recently due to having a suspected fuel leak - now OK. Drove about 10 miles yesterday and front O/S calliper sticking yet again. Once I get the car home, then I will free up the callipers again.
I appreciate that part of the problem will be I am not using the car as much as perhaps I should, but is there any mileage in looking at upgrading the disks/pads/callipers, but without replacing the standard wheels ? Would this help prevent the sticking calliper issue, or do I just accept I need to drive the car more often. Rear brakes cause me no problem at all !!
Thanks in advance.

[tango123]

it could be the brake hose causing the sticky caliper, unless that is new?

[mac2226]

If I was you I would recon your front brakes they might be crap inside them or even moisture has got in and pitted the pistons it’s happen to me before on few different cars. The outer dust seal getsa rip or is worn. All best Michael

[steve briance]

There might be something in what mac2226 says. I've had sticky front calipers and it was caused by corrosion building up around the groove where the rubber dust seals sit. Piston could easily push past the corrosion but wouldnt necessarily slide back. It never stuck fully on but would drag enough to get the pads smoking after a few miles.

[Bowie69]

How are you freeing the brake up?

[Jaydee]

Hi, thanks for your replies. I replaced the flexi hoses with HEL braided ones a couple of years back. The discs and pads are brand new - replaced following MOT failure in June, callipers also freed up at the time. Car has been little used since then due to suspected fuel leak and not having the time to get round to doing it. Subsequently found fuel was not leaking - cracked catalytic converter causing fluid to leak onto the engine undershield first. I use a Sealey brake piston wind-back tool to push the pistons back, then press brake pedal to move piston out (small block of wood prevents piston popping out. The callipers were replaced with reconditioned ones last year. From what I can gather, a lot of the problems are due to lack of use, so will just have to keep checking the callipers and use the car more often. Once I get the car back home, then I will have a good look at the callipers again.

[Tractor Dave]

I had this problem on my Hyundai Terrecan. It was due to little use. I solved it finally by stripping down the pistons and fitting new seals plastered in silicone grease. Its much more water resistant than normal brake grease and apparently doesn't attack the seals.

[Jaydee]

Thanks Tractor Dave - will give that a go.

[Jaydee]

Quick question - moved car out of garage last week and lots of screeching from steering. Checkedhydraulic fluid level and was halfway between minimum and completley empty. Topped up with correct fluid, G 000 002. Had to get another litre and went to TPS, but they advised fluid now superceeded with G 004 000. They were unable to confirm/deny that the fluids could be mixed or whether I would need to drain and refill. I subsequently was advised that the 2 fluids are not compatible and I would need to use G 000 002 exclusively in the car. Any advice gratefully received.
I also think that the 'bomb' has failed - which could explain the brake issues I have been experiencing. Pedal remained solid even after about 100 presses after engine had been running. Noticed oily residue on chassi rail below hydraulic fluid reservoir and around the top of the 'bomb'. Have cleaned area up as much as possible, and intend to have a test run and further look as soon as possible. Will update if I find anything.