Porsche Brembo's upgraded - Excessive pedal travel S2 coupe ABY

[Tom_]

I know, but i want to be a 100% sure Its not OEM bolts,because its not a OEM brake calipers but bolts are high tensile 12.5

[SteveH]

I have the 18z calipers with S4 rears. The initial pedal travel is long and the brake bite is very progressive. When you stamp on them it certainly stops the S2. I've just bled my brakes with a pressure bleeder and it's just the same with new fluid.

[larsaskogstad]

Refreshing this old thread.
I've fitted 996 brakes in front with 323mm brakes. Still on original brake cylinders etc.

Feel the braking is a bit weak, takes a long time before it bites good.
Been bleeding the brakes, changed the "brake bomb" but wondering if I should do it once more.

So you bleed the furthest from the brake cylinders first?
So right rear, left rear, right front, left front in my case.

You bleed both of them but the outer one first, then the inner one right?

How "spongy" is the pedal feel for you guys that has similar setup?
Maybe new cars are just much better but I feel my Mercedes-Benz Vito will outbrake my S2 anyday

[Tractor Dave]

There is a very different feel between modern brakes and standard S2. My wife has a 2010 Passat. Touch the brake pedal and feels like you slammed the brakes on. I also have Porsche front brakes and B6 S4 rear brakes. I find you have to press the brake much harder to get a strong response, but boy, it works well. Once you get used to this there is no problem. Jump back in the Passat and you nearly hit the windscreen again.
I bought the Sealey pressure bleed tool. Takes all the hassle out of bleeding the brakes, properly and easily every time. It copies the official VAG bleed method.

[Tractor Dave]

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[larsaskogstad]

Yeah used a compressor last time
But this looks good.
How many ml pr caliper?

[Tractor Dave]

If you fill to capacity, there is enough to flush the whole system. Think I had about 1ltr left as well. Sometimes the bubbles take a while to turn up so keep going for a while after it flows clear.
And do the slave for the clutch while you have it fitted.

[larsaskogstad]

Yup might have been too fast last time.
Slave, clutch what? How?

[Tractor Dave]

Yup might have been too fast last time.
Slave, clutch what? How?

The clutch is fed from the brake fluid container. There is a bleed nipple on the slave. This fluid often gets neglected and goes very stale. Do this last when any bubbles have had time to clear in the container. The clutch can be a sod to bleed if any air gets in there.

[larsaskogstad]

Okay, this sounds too complicated

[Tractor Dave]

Okay, this sounds too complicated

No, it's very easy. Connect pipe onto slave bleed nipple and run down under car into a container. Using ring spanner, open nipple (when bleed kit is connected and pressurised), wait until liquid flows nice and clean and bubble free, close nipple. Simples

[larsaskogstad]

Hmmm have a pic where its located?

[Tractor Dave]

Down there. You can see me bleeding it in this pic. I have made a special tool which allows the bleed pipe to run inside the socket. Ring spanner works but is more fiddly.



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[macspring]

Dave is right, the clutch slave cylinder line is often forgotten about in terms of bleeding / refreshing the hydraulic fluid in this line. Lack of servicing' will show up most on a really hot day in heavy traffic when the old fluid - now with a percentage of water absorbed into it over time will not 'work' the slave cylinder as fully as it should. Anyways best practice is to flush it and effectively renew the fluid in that hydraulic line from the brake / clutch fluid reservoir down to the clutch slave cylinder on the top of the gearbox.

As Dave has mentioned, a 7mm ring spanner can be fiddly but works well enough to open and close the bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder. Just pressurise the reservoir and open the bleed nipple with the 7mm ring spanner and let the old fluid weep / flow out until you see the new fresh light coloured fluid coming through. Obviously it is best to have a transparent pipe on the end of the bleed nipple to see / collect the fluid in a transparent jar - initially the old dark fluid and subsequently then the new clear fluid being pushed out under pressure.

TBH, you need to get yourself up to ( and ideally beyond ) this level of mechanical competency to be able to own these S cars ( for your own peace of mind ), this is assuming that you're not lucky enough to be able to afford to pay others ( who are decent, and also appreciate and understand these cars ) to fix these cars on your behalf.

Hope that helps a bit.

Best wishes.

[Tractor Dave]

Well said! Every S2 owner should be prepared to get stuck in. It's half the joy of ownership.