Help with mod for ellipsoid headlights

[s2_southwest]

from what i can gather from previous posts, all you need to do is swap the one yellow wire from socket 7 to socket 8....except there is already a wire in 8. So anyone know what i do now?

this is what its meant to look like before moving the yellow wire from 7.



but this is what i have. no room for yellow in 8

[s2_southwest]

also, i cant quite see how you are even meant to pull out those connections. the grimp is bigger than the hole in the purple plastic, so how can you pull that through?

[panzerwagen]

s2_southwest you will need a special tool to achieve your mod..

A Stahlwille-Kabelex PN#1511 or 1512 will do the job.

[s2_southwest]

Thanks, but then where do i put the yellow wire? i take it this mod is needed because on the 3b headlight there are two electrical connections and on the ellipsoid ones there is only the one plug/socket..

i really am stuck with this. i dont want to just go plugging the new ones in and melting something

[panzerwagen]

I'm a little unclear as to what you are trying to do?

Did you put in updated S2 headlites in and are now trying to integrate the wiring in?

[s2_southwest]

i have a 3b, and i have bought some new rs2 (later s2 ellipsoid) headlights. i have read on the forum that when upgrading the standard 3b headlights to ellipsoids, you need to move that yellow wire in order to keep all the lights on when they should be etc.....

[panzerwagen]

Yikes! Have you relayed the lighting circuit?

If you do that you are gonna fry the wiring! I suggest you do what alot of guys have done. Rewire the the circuit so that all the juice does not go thru the switch at the steering wheel. Use the switch as a trigger for the relays that control the lites.
Make sure you fuse the wiring too. Check the archives here for the proper schematic.

[Alistair C]

cant help you with the wiring I'm afraid.
I did the conversion on my 3B and it went smoothly exactly as described elsewhere on the forum.

With regards moving the wires, the plug can 'unlock' the terminals by sliding the purple part against the black part in the direction of the arrow. Be careful though as all 16 terminals will then want to fall out.

EDIT: wow, that temp gauge of yours is looking a bit worse for wear!

[s2_southwest]

yeah Alistair im waiting for the plasma gauges to get here, the fuel gauge is just as bad as the temp.

Nothing is straight forward. If i could find out what the extra wire i have does (maybe something to do with the remote levelling) maybe i can ditch that feature and then just move the yellow to where it needs to go to get the ellipsoids working.

Not having a wiring diagram doesnt help.

Adding new looms and relays seems like a huge job?

[Alistair C]

how is your speedo? could do with a replacement myself.....

RE the cable already in posn8 - if you have a search through previous posts, quite a few seem to have come across this problem and a few have suggested it is the levelling wire (though mine also has levelling but no wire here). I can't suggest what to do, but others seem to have figured out a workround.

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7033

[s2_southwest]

thats the kinda post i was looking for. i will contact george and see if he stuck both the cables in.

cheers bud!

[s2_southwest]

speedo is bad and so is rev counter lol all 4 gauges stick at times. desperate for these plasmas

[s2_southwest]

UPDATE:

FITTED AND WORKING!

I did as someone suggested, cut the yellow wire, spliced and soldered onto the brown/yellow in #8. Remote level adjustment works and so do the headlights on all settings. Top job

Cheers guys.

[Fat Audi 80]

If you do that you are gonna fry the wiring! I suggest you do what alot of guys have done. Rewire the the circuit so that all the juice does not go thru the switch at the steering wheel. Use the switch as a trigger for the relays that control the lites.
Make sure you fuse the wiring too. Check the archives here for the proper schematic.

He is using the HID kit which has ballast units which will not draw extra current once they are up and running.

Cheers,

Steve

[Fat Audi 80]

UPDATE:

FITTED AND WORKING!

I did as someone suggested, cut the yellow wire, spliced and soldered onto the brown/yellow in #8. Remote level adjustment works and so do the headlights on all settings. Top job

Cheers guys.

Cool - Daylight at night and level adjustment.

Glad to hear its all sorted.

Cheers,

Steve