Decided to rebuild my wiper linkage as the wipers have always been a bit slow and after I fixed the temperamental stalk switch I wanted the wipers running like new.
First off remove the wipers. Pop the black cap off the bottom of the arm with a small screwdriver.
Hold the wiper arm steady and undo the 13mm nut holding the arm on.
Remove the wipers by taking the spring tension off the arm and pulling them up. These can be stubborn, DO NOT twist them or you will strip the splines. Try some GT85 or similar, or you can try using a small puller. Mine came off easy.
Now remove the rain tray. Release the clips with a quarter turn and peel back the bulkhead seal.
To make access easier remove the fuse box cover by opening it and then sliding it to the right to unclip the hinge lugs. On the 7A I had to remove the injector resistor, obviously not an issue on the S2.
Remove the loom plug. it just pulls out there are no clips etc holding it in.
To get the linkage out you need to release the drive from the motor to move the arms out of the way. Take note of the angle that the drive arm sits at, we need to get that on the same spline next time. Undo the 13mm nut and pop the drive arm off the motor shaft. You can use a small pry bar to help if needed. Once that is off you can move the arms into a suitable position to get it out.
Remove the mounting bolts (10mm spanner)
Now you can wriggle the linkage out and get it on the bench to get started.
After a quick clean mine looked in really great condition considering its now 23 years old!
Remove the circlips from the spindles, and put to one side, along with the spacer washer underneath.
Tap the spindle out and recover the spring washer and shim from the bottom of the spindle.
Back to the housing there is an o-ring on the top of the bore in the linkage, pick that out and put it to one side with the other bits.
Now give everything a real good clean, I used thinners and carb cleaner which is awesome. I noticed a bit of the plating coming off one of my spindles, but it was working ok so should be fine for a few more years.
Onto the motor itself. Undo the mounting bolts (10mm spanner) and remove it from the linkage.
Prise off the retaining clip on the gear shaft. Use a small pick or screwdriver. Try to avoid bending the tabs up any more than necessary. Stabbing yourself in the finger three times like I did is also inadvisable.
Remove the plastic backplate from the motor and bend it out of the way.
Inside you will probably find some pretty gnarly grease, all waxy and very sticky. This is the gunk that makes the motor run slow. Clean it all out, strong solvents and an old toothbrush work well.
Once its all clean its time to regrease and put it back together. I used some MIL spec waterproof marine grease I "found" at work, but any good grease will do. Pop the drive gear back in.
On the contact plate I used some electrical contact grease. Pop the top back on the housing.
Refit the spring clip that retains the gear shaft on the motor. Flatten it out slightly to remove any bending from earlier. Use some washers and a nut to pull the shaft tight and press the clip home - only needs to be finger tight you will hear it click into place,
Re-bolt the motor to the linkage.
Grease up the spindles and refit the spring washers and shims. Slide the spindles into their bores and refit the o-ring and washer. Secure it all with the circlips.
Re-grease the ball joints on the linkage arms and its ready to refit!
Refit the linkage back into position on the car. Plug the loom into the motor and flick the wiper switch to cycle the motor to its stop position. Now taking note of the alignment to the motor shaft when removed, refit the drive arm to the shaft.
In Haynes style, refit everything and have a brew or a beer and admire your new speedy wipers.
First off remove the wipers. Pop the black cap off the bottom of the arm with a small screwdriver.
Hold the wiper arm steady and undo the 13mm nut holding the arm on.
Remove the wipers by taking the spring tension off the arm and pulling them up. These can be stubborn, DO NOT twist them or you will strip the splines. Try some GT85 or similar, or you can try using a small puller. Mine came off easy.
Now remove the rain tray. Release the clips with a quarter turn and peel back the bulkhead seal.
To make access easier remove the fuse box cover by opening it and then sliding it to the right to unclip the hinge lugs. On the 7A I had to remove the injector resistor, obviously not an issue on the S2.
Remove the loom plug. it just pulls out there are no clips etc holding it in.
To get the linkage out you need to release the drive from the motor to move the arms out of the way. Take note of the angle that the drive arm sits at, we need to get that on the same spline next time. Undo the 13mm nut and pop the drive arm off the motor shaft. You can use a small pry bar to help if needed. Once that is off you can move the arms into a suitable position to get it out.
Remove the mounting bolts (10mm spanner)
Now you can wriggle the linkage out and get it on the bench to get started.
After a quick clean mine looked in really great condition considering its now 23 years old!
Remove the circlips from the spindles, and put to one side, along with the spacer washer underneath.
Tap the spindle out and recover the spring washer and shim from the bottom of the spindle.
Back to the housing there is an o-ring on the top of the bore in the linkage, pick that out and put it to one side with the other bits.
Now give everything a real good clean, I used thinners and carb cleaner which is awesome. I noticed a bit of the plating coming off one of my spindles, but it was working ok so should be fine for a few more years.
Onto the motor itself. Undo the mounting bolts (10mm spanner) and remove it from the linkage.
Prise off the retaining clip on the gear shaft. Use a small pick or screwdriver. Try to avoid bending the tabs up any more than necessary. Stabbing yourself in the finger three times like I did is also inadvisable.
Remove the plastic backplate from the motor and bend it out of the way.
Inside you will probably find some pretty gnarly grease, all waxy and very sticky. This is the gunk that makes the motor run slow. Clean it all out, strong solvents and an old toothbrush work well.
Once its all clean its time to regrease and put it back together. I used some MIL spec waterproof marine grease I "found" at work, but any good grease will do. Pop the drive gear back in.
On the contact plate I used some electrical contact grease. Pop the top back on the housing.
Refit the spring clip that retains the gear shaft on the motor. Flatten it out slightly to remove any bending from earlier. Use some washers and a nut to pull the shaft tight and press the clip home - only needs to be finger tight you will hear it click into place,
Re-bolt the motor to the linkage.
Grease up the spindles and refit the spring washers and shims. Slide the spindles into their bores and refit the o-ring and washer. Secure it all with the circlips.
Re-grease the ball joints on the linkage arms and its ready to refit!
Refit the linkage back into position on the car. Plug the loom into the motor and flick the wiper switch to cycle the motor to its stop position. Now taking note of the alignment to the motor shaft when removed, refit the drive arm to the shaft.
In Haynes style, refit everything and have a brew or a beer and admire your new speedy wipers.
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