Road trip alternator trouble, help needed..

[Lloyd]

Voltage regulator (not a rectifier) numbers:

Audi Part number : 028 903 803 D
Bosch number : 1-197-311-028

Thanks to you all again. Power of the forum.
Latest update, is the car stopped 15 minutes from the ferry on route to a garage.
managed to buy a old battery for Eu10 and now at Audi dealership. These part numbers are really valuable. Thanks guys.

Fortunately, the sun is shining and therefore my wife is still smiling. Just.
Not a great start to a fortnights holiday.

[Lloyd]

The tech guys have reported that the alternator is dead. Not generating anything.
Also the terminals have oxide on them. Given the fact that it was recently reconditioned and that I cleaned up all the terminals when fitting, is it possible there might be something else at fault electrically? Something that might have caused this alternator (and the previous one?) to fail?

It's gonna be a race against the clock as everything shuts at noon around here....

[Pirvu Eugen]

As other said...buy an new voltage regulator...
I wouldint trust these guys from steelers

[Pirvu Eugen]

You have with you an multimeter?
Iff yes....with ignition on...measure the voltage at the small blue wire at the alternator.

[newsh]

Have a good look at the thick wire near the starter and around the oil cooler pipes area, I had a short there on my ur a few years back. Also check that the alternator wiring really is connected properly, I've seen a damaged bolt where the 10mm nut appeared to be tight but actually you could still move the lug, this caused charging problems and burning of the bolt and lug where the current was arcing.

If possible I would check all wiring really carefully and try fitting a new regulator to your alternator before going for another new alternator. You can check the alternator and diodes for shorts and open circuits with a multimeter.

[Lloyd]

OK. Some results just in. The alternator has been removed and sent to the local specialist for further testing. They've confirmed that the rotor was replaced when it was recently re-conditioned as it's not the original one for that alternator. The windings on the re-con rotor have fried and it's a write off. The regulator itself was still working and not too worn. Both parts have now been renewed and tested, producing stable 14.2v.

God knows what the bill is going to be but at least it's shortly going to be up and running and we can get on our way. Given that both places shut at 12.30 local time we've been lucky to get it fixed so quick.

As the re-con unit was under warranty (3 months ago) I hope the company in question steps up to the plate and offers me a full refund.

Here's a shot of the knackered parts.

Again, thanks to everyone who gave some time to share advice and info.

[newsh]

Great that you got it sorted but please have a good look at the big wires from the alternator and the big wire to the starter and make sure you've not got a wiring short as I described in a previous post. If one of those big wires has rubbed through on a bracket or the oil cooler pipes you'll be replacing it again.

[Lloyd]

Ok, will do. Thanks.

[macspring]

Delighted you got it fixed, whatever the bill it will be cheap as it lets you continue and your wife won’t be too upset.

Post any photos of decent stuff, places, cars, people etc., you see whole you’re abroad.

Kind regards.

[prj]

Nightmare Lloyd.
Your car does not want you going places...

At least my voltage correction map for the injectors is working if it still drove with 10 volts

[Lloyd]

Nightmare Lloyd.
Your car does not want you going places...

At least my voltage correction map for the injectors is working if it still drove with 10 volts

Well, drove is not quite accurate to be honest. What happens is that as the voltage drops on the gauge (battery voltage as no alternator) the car becomes quite stuttery and jerky.

The best way to extend the limited remaining mileage (trying to get to the garage) was to make sure the revs stayed above 3000 rpm. This helped the engine run smoothest. Probably smoked my new clutch a bit though.... certainly ran a whole bunch of red lights as I wasn't sure I could stop and start the car moving. As the battery became flatter it was eventually impossible to get any futher and the engine died. Gauge showing 8v at this point.

Newsh is making a great point and I really need to see if there is a short or bad earth.
Two alternators in less than 12 months is not good. I do not want a third to go.

[Lloyd]

Having driven yesturday from the Audi garage in Hook of Holland to Hardebek in Germany, via the coastal route, I've been watching the voltage gauge like a hawk.

The garage tested the new alternator and got a nice stable 14.2v. The gauge has not showed anything near 14v. Often it's reading about 13v, sometimes a bit more, sometimes a bit less. Wierd scale on that gauge.

I am pretty sure I remember the 'normal' read out on that gauge over the last few years as a consistent 14v. Does anyone else agree with this?

Maybe this confirms Newsh warning about a possible short? thoughts??

[AndyP]

I'm sure I've read before that the gauge is not wired directly to the battery or alternator, so you get losses as it goes throught the loom. Mine only reads 12v on the gauge but 14v at the battery. If you're getting 13v I'd say all is good, have a great trip

[Lloyd]

Thanks Andy. Here's two shots of slightly varying readings. I'm sure it was always 14v in the past on this car...

[AndyP]

Might just be down to a different voltage regulator, just keep and eye on it and make sure it stays there. When you get home put a multimeter on the battery and alternator and see what you're getting.