Battery drain still going on

[newsh]

Oh yes, the alarm may actually take more current when it's not armed, a good unit will go into power saving mode when activated.

[caterpillar]

try this; disconneckt the generator (!!) from the battery.. ( the yellow cable) from the battery... the main b+ comes from the starter... and meshure the current drain... the next, does the car have the music unit/ player... they may drain, when they are in off mods..have changed 3 players last year...

[A80Avant]

I use a pioneer head unit without any additional amps or subs etc. Just plain speakers. Hardly even use it.

The negative method was what I saw done on the tube as being safer not to damage the multimeter.

I have waited for the car to go to sleep. In fact when the door was opened I was measuring 7.8 on that scale. When closed 00.8 on the 200mA

I will use the correct connection way as well

[A80Avant]

Double checked today with a change in the polarity of the red/black cables. I got the same reading. On 200mA: 00.8 on 20mA: 0.08

Funnily enough the car started nicely but with only 13.98v on the battery on a cold engine idle whereas previously it was above 14v.

Alternator is new by the way

[UrS4boy]

Funnily enough the car started nicely but with only 13.98v on the battery on a cold engine idle whereas previously it was above 14v.

That is your static, ignition switch OFF, battery voltage? If so, WOW, normally that would be more like 11.7 V. - which will still start a 20VT with a starter with a good ground and reasonable ambient temperatures.

[newsh]

Funnily enough the car started nicely but with only 13.98v on the battery on a cold engine idle whereas previously it was above 14v.

Alternator is new by the way

Sounds ok, it was a cold morning, maybe you had the de-misters on.

[A80Avant]

No no. That was with the engine idling. Ignition off was 12.6v

No demisters. I just started the car to make sure it starts. Was on the cold start sequence so idle was 1050rpm on vems.

I just wanted to see what the voltage was when the car was idling and then off while having the correct cables on

[caterpillar]

13,98 volt on idle it may be ok... BUT it should rise to 14,5 at least att 2000 rpm, with the heaterfan om max, and lights on...
you can by 100 alternator.. its only the same.. the regulator/ brushunit gives only 14 volt max... BY A NEW regulator brushunit for stamped 14,7 or 15 volt...
then you have full charged battery...ITS THE ONLY WAY..!

[A80Avant]

I have done all that. Alternator is 120 amp. Regulator for 14.5v. I need a second person to watch the voltage while the rpms are at 2000 as the battery is at the back! Haha

[bigcooler]

I've had problems with drainage and it turned out to be the starter motor.
maybe worth a shot?

[A80Avant]

Now that has never been changed before. Might be worth while just to say that everything is now new.

However it's not an easy task certainly not for me. So for now the battery pole goes out and that should suffice

[moggies]

Does it have a tow bar and electrics?

[caterpillar]

then the easy one... are the battery ok?? have you checked out the acid weight....( you do have to opens the tape sealing and have the propps out ( use goggeles and gloves!!!!) if you DO HAVE one of the cells lower then 0,2 than the others... the battery WILL drain out by it selves... but you manage to have the car in functions cond...
that may also happend even with a new battery....( i hav an new battery, that go bad ( total blackout) in 3 mnds.... even with the boooster on BOOST i wasnt having the 2 lamps in dash (oil and amp)

[A80Avant]

No tow bar. No other electrics running other than the car alarm which now stays off and the pioneer deck which drains 0.02amp.

It would be interesting to see that the battery is the actual problem...

[rj scotty]

I've just looked at the documentation for the toad ai606 (I don't know what alarm you have) and it draws 18mA when armed add that to Newsh's 9mA for the ecu/clock I think my 38mA with a stereo is about right